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T/C Renegade
- Thread starter Groverino
- Start date
I've owned a .50 caliber Renegade, since the mid 1970's. Still going strong. The Renegade is a well built,, very tough and reliable firearm. With any blackpowder firearm, bore condition is critical. It isn't always possible, or practical in some cases, to remove the breech plug and check the bore. So, one quick and simple way to check bore condition, is to shine a bore light down bore and check it visually. Is the bore clean and shiny all the way to the breech end? If not, it might just be dirty. So, clean the bore and try again. How does it look? Another test is to run a dry patch down bore....noting if or where it catches, or hangs up. This might indicate corrosion or pitting in the bore. Where most corrosion is likely to occur, is near the breech end of the firearm. So, remove the nipple and shine a light down into the hole. Do you see any rust? If minor, this might clean up easily with a bore brush and plenty of oil. If a lot, or pitting is evident, I'd walk away from the deal.
Though not common, bulged barrels are always a concern with muzzle loading firearms. A bulge usually results when the bullet or ball moves off the powder charge, creating a gap between it and the powder charge. When the gun is fired, the bullet tends to act more like a bore obstruction, instead of moving ahead of the gas pressure. The pressure spikes at that area, and a bulge occurs. A bulged barrel isn't always easy to spot. One quick way is to run a tight fitting patch down bore. You should feel consistent resistance all the way down. If not, note where the lessening of resistance was and try again. Is it still in the same spot? If so, it is likely there is a bulge in the barrel at that point. I've seen blackpowder rifles that still shot well, with mildly bulged bores. As a rule though, if there is a bulge in the barrel, don't buy it. There will be a weak spot in the barrel at the point of the bulge. This creates a potentially dangerous situation where the barrel may rupture, if fired.
Though not common, bulged barrels are always a concern with muzzle loading firearms. A bulge usually results when the bullet or ball moves off the powder charge, creating a gap between it and the powder charge. When the gun is fired, the bullet tends to act more like a bore obstruction, instead of moving ahead of the gas pressure. The pressure spikes at that area, and a bulge occurs. A bulged barrel isn't always easy to spot. One quick way is to run a tight fitting patch down bore. You should feel consistent resistance all the way down. If not, note where the lessening of resistance was and try again. Is it still in the same spot? If so, it is likely there is a bulge in the barrel at that point. I've seen blackpowder rifles that still shot well, with mildly bulged bores. As a rule though, if there is a bulge in the barrel, don't buy it. There will be a weak spot in the barrel at the point of the bulge. This creates a potentially dangerous situation where the barrel may rupture, if fired.
I've owned a .50 caliber Renegade, since the mid 1970's. Still going strong. The Renegade is a well built,, very tough and reliable firearm. With any blackpowder firearm, bore condition is critical. It isn't always possible, or practical in some cases, to remove the breech plug and check the bore. So, one quick and simple way to check bore condition, is to shine a bore light down bore and check it visually. Is the bore clean and shiny all the way to the breech end? If not, it might just be dirty. So, clean the bore and try again. How does it look? Another test is to run a dry patch down bore....noting if or where it catches, or hangs up. This might indicate corrosion or pitting in the bore. Where most corrosion is likely to occur, is near the breech end of the firearm. So, remove the nipple and shine a light down into the hole. Do you see any rust? If minor, this might clean up easily with a bore brush and plenty of oil. If a lot, or pitting is evident, I'd walk away from the deal.
Though not common, bulged barrels are always a concern with muzzle loading firearms. A bulge usually results when the bullet or ball moves off the powder charge, creating a gap between it and the powder charge. When the gun is fired, the bullet tends to act more like a bore obstruction, instead of moving ahead of the gas pressure. The pressure spikes at that area, and a bulge occurs. A bulged barrel isn't always easy to spot. One quick way is to run a tight fitting patch down bore. You should feel consistent resistance all the way down. If not, note where the lessening of resistance was and try again. Is it still in the same spot? If so, it is likely there is a bulge in the barrel at that point. I've seen blackpowder rifles that still shot well, with mildly bulged bores. As a rule though, if there is a bulge in the barrel, don't buy it. There will be a weak spot in the barrel at the point of the bulge. This creates a potentially dangerous situation where the barrel may rupture, if fired.
Thanks very much for the great reply. The fellow wants $300 for the rifle and it includes quite a few accessories and bullets, so I may go for it if it checks out ok.
That is a good deal for that rifle. If in good overall condition....especially the bore.... then I would not hesitate to buy it. This might be helpful: The rifling pitch in TC Renegade is 1/48". This is a compromise twist, which really doesn't favour either bullet or ball. So, you can expect either to shoot reasonably well. Don't expect to drive tacks with it, though. One cast bullet I've had good success with, is the .50/230 grain Lee REAL bullet. Very effective.....hard hitting and accurate. Another bullet which I also like, is the Lee 44/310 grain saboted bullet. This pretty much duplicates the performance of the REAL slug, but can be driven a bit faster. Very effective on deer sized game. Shoots pretty much to the same point of impact as the REAL slug too....at least in my rifle. It has now become my go-to hunting bullet for the Renegade. I normally don't load hotter than 90 grains of Goex Ffg. Never found a reason to. Put that bullet in the right place, and they go down without any fuss. If memory serves 110 grains is the maximum charge for the Renegade, anyway. That one will hurt.....especially if the rifle still wears its original curved steel buttplate. A word of advice: If it doesn't already wear one, put a rubber recoil pad on the rifle. Your shoulder will thank you for it. Purists might cringe...but its your shoulder.
For ball, I like a Lee .490 grain, over 80 grains of Ffg. Very accurate and effective. Of course, your rifle may have its own likes or dislikes when it comes to bullets and powder charges. So, I offer these two merely as a guideline. There are plenty others that may work equally well....or even better. For example: 44/265 grain Hornady jacketed bullet. Another saboted slug which is highly effective on anything I've shot with it. This bullet was originally factory loaded in the .444 Marlin. It expands well at muzzleloader velocities and carries plenty of punch. If you prefer something a bit lighter, there are plenty of 44/240 grain jacketed bullets which also work very well. Once again, 90 grains Goex Ffg is my standard of performance.
Another option you might consider if small game hunting is your thing, is the purchase of a .56-caliber smoothbore barrel for your Renegade. This gives you the shotgun capability of about 28 gauge. Deadly on rabbits and grouse, inside 30 yards. I normally load a 55 grain charge (by volume) of Ffg, with the equivalent load in shot (about 7/8 oz.). Had my barrel fitted with a bead up front, for shotgun style aiming. Lots of fun! Plus keeps my freezer full.
Anyway....good luck on your purchase. Hope its a good one.
For ball, I like a Lee .490 grain, over 80 grains of Ffg. Very accurate and effective. Of course, your rifle may have its own likes or dislikes when it comes to bullets and powder charges. So, I offer these two merely as a guideline. There are plenty others that may work equally well....or even better. For example: 44/265 grain Hornady jacketed bullet. Another saboted slug which is highly effective on anything I've shot with it. This bullet was originally factory loaded in the .444 Marlin. It expands well at muzzleloader velocities and carries plenty of punch. If you prefer something a bit lighter, there are plenty of 44/240 grain jacketed bullets which also work very well. Once again, 90 grains Goex Ffg is my standard of performance.
Another option you might consider if small game hunting is your thing, is the purchase of a .56-caliber smoothbore barrel for your Renegade. This gives you the shotgun capability of about 28 gauge. Deadly on rabbits and grouse, inside 30 yards. I normally load a 55 grain charge (by volume) of Ffg, with the equivalent load in shot (about 7/8 oz.). Had my barrel fitted with a bead up front, for shotgun style aiming. Lots of fun! Plus keeps my freezer full.
Anyway....good luck on your purchase. Hope its a good one.
That is a good deal for that rifle. If in good overall condition....especially the bore.... then I would not hesitate to buy it. This might be helpful: The rifling pitch in TC Renegade is 1/48". This is a compromise twist, which really doesn't favour either bullet or ball. So, you can expect either to shoot reasonably well. Don't expect to drive tacks with it, though.
Alex Mck is exactly right, the Renegade is neither fish nor fowl". I have had one in .54 since the early 80's, and it is a decent quality, rugged rifle. It will last your whole life, if you take care of it, but it will never be very accurate. The 1/48 twist is too slow for bullets, and too fast for round ball. To paraphrase Townsend Whelan, "only accurate rifles are interesting", and I agree with him. My advice to you would be to choose either a round ball rifle, such as a Lyman Great Plains rifle, or a bullet shooter, such as a Lyman Great Plains Hunter, or better still, a Pedersoli Gibbs, but the Gibbs is going to cost you a lot more. Of course, as always, YMMV...
Glen
