Multi coating

They are in the $700-$2000 bracket....
Doesn't look like there is any option but Chinese under $700....lol

And the new Trinovid's aren't like the old ones. They used to be top of the line, now the Ultravid are the top tier Leica. The old late 80's/early 90's Leitz/Leica Trinovids are hard to beat, even by most of todays binoculars. The 10x40 with the Uppendahl prism system are still one of my favorites of all time.
 
My questioning came with my search for a value scope for varmint hunting with a Marlin 782. I started with a Mueller APV witch let me down without even firing one round and Mueller do not honour their warranty if not purchased in the US. They say it's fully multi coated for 149$ on Amazon. So i'm taking a small step up with a Nikon Prostaff rimfire II 4-12X40mm BDC 150. Theres no way i can justify a 700$ scope on a 250$ rifle to kill ground hogs. Hope i will like that one. Thank's all for your comments.
 
... The chinese nikon blew leica away at dusk in terms of light transmission and contrast. Lugged them around for 3 years and they were still aligned by the time I sold them. It sure helped that they were a pound lighter than any german made "built to last" monster.

Wow, three whole years? I think that after using my Trinovids and Zeiss Classics for over three decades I can safely say that they are indeed "built to last". Three years isn't even worth mentioning.

Suffice to say that the comment regarding low-light performance is very difficult to believe.

I hate to use that old cliché, but in optics you really do get what you pay for. And until you compare top-grade optics to bargain-basement stuff under real-world conditions, you simply cannot understand the difference. I use my binoculars extensively, year-round, and not just for hunting. Look through your $200 binoculars for 45 minutes straight, not just for a quick glance in the gun-shop parking lot, and then see what you think.

Cheap optics have one saving grace. They allow you...actually, they usually force you...to upgrade every couple of years. If you like new and shiny things, this lets you always have a new pair of binoculars to admire...and after a number of years, you will have a brand new cheap-but-shiny set of binoculars, and you will have spent only a little more than the good pair would have cost you in the first place.
 
Wow, three whole years? I think that after using my Trinovids and Zeiss Classics for over three decades I can safely say that they are indeed "built to last". Three years isn't even worth mentioning.

Suffice to say that the comment regarding low-light performance is very difficult to believe.

I hate to use that old cliché, but in optics you really do get what you pay for. And until you compare top-grade optics to bargain-basement stuff under real-world conditions, you simply cannot understand the difference. I use my binoculars extensively, year-round, and not just for hunting. Look through your $200 binoculars for 45 minutes straight, not just for a quick glance in the gun-shop parking lot, and then see what you think.

Cheap optics have one saving grace. They allow you...actually, they usually force you...to upgrade every couple of years. If you like new and shiny things, this lets you always have a new pair of binoculars to admire...and after a number of years, you will have a brand new cheap-but-shiny set of binoculars, and you will have spent only a little more than the good pair would have cost you in the first place.

I bet three decades ago this is a very accurate assessment for using the bins as you do.

Right now, I think you get way more for your money from optics in asia and the minute differences (if they exist at all) between leitz/cz stuff are hardly worth the brand premium.
 
I bet three decades ago this is a very accurate assessment for using the bins as you do.

Right now, I think you get way more for your money from optics in asia and the minute differences (if they exist at all) between leitz/cz stuff are hardly worth the brand premium.

Once you spend a considerable amount of time glassing, you and your eyes will realize very quickly how bad Chinese binoculars actually are. I'm talking hours/day on a continuous basis.

For a quick peek now and then, they'll suffice, but once you've looked through high end binoculars, it's very annoying to go back to even mediocre quality.
 
...Right now, I think you get way more for your money from optics in asia and the minute differences (if they exist at all) between leitz/cz stuff are hardly worth the brand premium.

I tend to agree with this statement for the most part. Mid-level optics today are far superior to mid-level optics of 20 years or more ago...at least optically. Certainly, a $300 binocular is probably providing an image that is within a few percentage points of a $3000 unit, going by the numbers. The advantage of the ultra models would be more visible in low light, which of course is when we as hunters tend to need them the most. Is the difference "worth it"? Good question; I vividly recall comparing two ultra models, one Zeiss and one Leica, side by side several years ago. After swapping back and forth several times, peering into dark corners and comparing the flare when observing an object that was heavily backlit, I pronounced one to be visibly superior. The salesman disagreed with me, but admitted that virtually every customer who compared them carefully as I had done had come to the same conclusion. So to me, the difference between two top-line models was worth it...the much more noticeable difference between either of these and any entry-level unit was a no-brainer. Like anything else, if you are going to use a binocular seriously, then you will come to demand and appreciate every minute advantage.

Once you spend a considerable amount of time glassing, you and your eyes will realize very quickly how bad Chinese binoculars actually are. I'm talking hours/day on a continuous basis.

For a quick peek now and then, they'll suffice, but once you've looked through high end binoculars, it's very annoying to go back to even mediocre quality.

Now this is the real bone of contention, the feature that separates the men from the boys, optically speaking.:) Collimation, the degree to which the two barrels of a binocular are aligned with each other to produce a single image, is what really matters for long periods of glassing. If the two images are even slightly misaligned, an inexperienced user may not even be aware of it...the brain will compensate for the misalignment by merging the two images into one. The brain will then repay you for forcing it do this hard work by giving you a headache that must be experienced to be believed. This isn't even an optical property...a cheap bino can produce two relatively clear, bright and excellent images, but if they are not perfectly aligned, you will suffer for it. This is simply a matter of construction quality, and it is the area where the cheapos fall flat. Want evidence? Compare three or four examples of a high-end binocular model in the store...I defy you to see a difference between them; they will all be perfect. Now look through 3 or 4 examples of a cheap model. I'll bet a couple of them are badly collimated right out of the box, and I will further bet that the others will go out of collimation within a few months or years.

I bought a Steiner 8x30 binocular a few years ago...nice and light, waterproof, maybe $250 or so. It was purchased online, so no chance to cherry-pick a nice specimen. I got it specifically because I thought that the individual focus eyepieces would be good for extreme-cold-weather glassing, requiring little or no focus adjustment once set. The collimation of this POS was so bad, right out of the box, that it was unusable. Holding it up to your eyes, the two separate images were painfully obvious, and the effort required to merge the images with your own eyes was unbearable. Individual focusing eyepieces came to the rescue: the left barrel now lives in the glove box of my Honda, and the right barrel resides in the console of my truck. Voila: two fairly decent monoculars...but a total disaster as a binocular. Who would have thought that you could do precision optical construction work with a hacksaw? :)

So...do cheaper binoculars give you more value for your dollar? In a strict sense, yes, they do. But are they worth it? For anything other than occasional casual use...sorry, no.
 
Since this post kind of hung a left and now chatting about binos, here is a simple test.

Do a side by side and the result will be very obvious. Doesn't matter what optic or cost... just see the relative difference.

License plate at say 200yds.... compare when you stop being able to read it as the light dims. You will most certainly be able to see where the plate is and other bumper features... but can you READ the number/letters? Smudgy blobs don't count.

That is what you are paying for... that extra level of clarity, resolution and useage. It may not be huge BUT it is there.

For hunting, that will be the difference between counting points and simply seeing that it is a buck. How much is that info worth to you at that point in time?

Another good comparison is range finders. There are plenty of inexpensive models with great ratings... then you take them into the field with some sunlight and/or a grassy background. How many times can you push that button and not get a consistent reading before it is "worth it"?

I stopped years back when I got my Swaro rangefinder. It did what I wanted, at the distances and lighting I would encounter all with 1 push of a button.

Some stuff doesn't need to cost alot of meet your goals. Other stuff is simply expensive to get the performance you need.

I focus on the performance first, the cost sorts itself out if it is truly worth it.

Jerry

PS... I got one of the first gen Nikon Monarch binos. They were superb and still going strong well over a decade later... with another family member. I have looked again at the current Monarchs in the similar price point... not even close. Now have a Pentax which IS good value for the money... not great but serviceable.
 
License plate at say 200yds.... compare when you stop being able to read it as the light dims. You will most certainly be able to see where the plate is and other bumper features... but can you READ the number/letters? Smudgy blobs don't count.
That's pretty much what I reported on.

In terms of centering I have no idea. The monarchs never gave me a headache, but I do admit, I never had to keep looking into them all day.
 
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