Could my bad groups be my scope?

Steamwhistle

Steamwhistle

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So I have a Tikka T3 Lite in 30-06 that I bought new from cabelas last year, I put a DNZ game reaper mount on it and topped it with my hunting scope I've had for a few years a bushnell elite 3200 3x9x40 (it's the bone collector with the 600m reticle)

So I zeroed it and was shooting around an inch groups, some under some over. A few days before deer season I go out and shoot a 3 shot group to confirm zero and I have a flier about 3" low and right. Since I was shooting prone without supports I figure it's me.

Anyway, I have a perfect shot at a buck this year, I fire and it goes down. But the shot is about 15" high and right. I was lucky and took it in the spine. I was shooting off a rest.

So I decide to take a random shot at a target I had in the backseat and I'm shooting far right. I'm losing confidence in the scope because I feel like the zero is wandering.

Should I buy a new scope for peace of mind?
 
15" high and right would be worth looking at a new scope if everything is tight. Does the scope rattle if you shake it?
People whine about how laser boresighters are a waste of money, but laser boresight, tap with rubber mallet and look again.
If it has moved, your scope is toast.
13$ for a boresighter kit on EBay.
 
Steamwhistle said:
So I have a Tikka T3 Lite in 30-06 that I bought new from cabelas last year, I put a DNZ game reaper mount on it and topped it with my hunting scope I've had for a few years a bushnell elite 3200 3x9x40 (it's the bone collector with the 600m reticle)

So I zeroed it and was shooting around an inch groups, some under some over. A few days before deer season I go out and shoot a 3 shot group to confirm zero and I have a flier about 3" low and right. Since I was shooting prone without supports I figure it's me.

Anyway, I have a perfect shot at a buck this year, I fire and it goes down. But the shot is about 15" high and right. I was lucky and took it in the spine. I was shooting off a rest.

So I decide to take a random shot at a target I had in the backseat and I'm shooting far right. I'm losing confidence in the scope because I feel like the zero is wandering.

Should I buy a new scope for peace of mind?
Click to expand...

Could try a different scope and see if you're getting the same results.

I would also check that all of the mounts and screws are tight and make sure they're not too long and protruding down in where it can get hit by the bolt. I had a weaver mount on a rifle that kept coming loose and moving because one of the screws was a tad too long and the bolt would jar it each time you cycled the action.
 
I would start with the rings and mounts. Everything is torqued and the locktited? Then I'd either try the scope on a diff rifle or a diff scope on your tikka.
 
Suther said:
I would start with the rings and mounts. Everything is torqued and the locktited? Then I'd either try the scope on a diff rifle or a diff scope on your tikka.
Click to expand...

This ^, ive had issues with mounts not holding zero and thought it was my barrel.
 
dand883 said:
Could try a different scope and see if you're getting the same results.

I would also check that all of the mounts and screws are tight and make sure they're not too long and protruding down in where it can get hit by the bolt. I had a weaver mount on a rifle that kept coming loose and moving because one of the screws was a tad too long and the bolt would jar it each time you cycled the action.
Click to expand...

The only other scope I have is a 30mm and won't work in the rings. I just checked for the screws and can't feel anything, and it isn't moving in the mount. I actually put a bit of tape on it to make sure it wasn't sliding forward as I had this problem before when I didn't tighten the rings enough.
 
Did you sight in with a clean bore or dirty bore? Most rifles are ok but I did have an older Browning Bar that took around 5-6 shots to foul it up and bring it back on correct poi. Initial sight-in took a few shots and thus by the time I had it zeroed, bore was pretty fouled. Learning from that, the rest of my other guns I always somewhat cleaned before final adjustments, more to simulate a clean gun from home straight out to the hunting fields. As stated above, test the scope on a different gun. Also check the action screws. Sometimes from factory, they may be loose and will work themselves slowly out and cause change in poi. +1 on the boresighter. After every zero session, I come home to my chart, put on the boresighter and marked down on my mock-up target and record where the laser is pointing(not always center). You can now check to see if its still zeroed without having to actually fire. Note the rifle must be the same distance everytime you check or the laser may move up and down slightly.
 
stubblejumper said:
Do not use loctite on the ring screws.
Click to expand...

Ha! Good thing I read this. I was thinking about it.

So just to update - I boresighted at 25m and guess what? My reticle was high and right. So I probably hit him right where I was aiming. So then I re-zeroed (which was like 20 clicks left and up) and hit the scope with a roll of clear plastic wrap(I couldn't find a rubber mallet and it seemed better then a hammer lol) a few times and the reticle shifts. I tried this about 5 different times getting various results between 1" off and the worst was a few inches low right.

I'm guessing it's the scope
 
Steamwhistle said:
Ha! Good thing I read this. I was thinking about it.

So just to update - I boresighted at 25m and guess what? My reticle was high and right. So I probably hit him right where I was aiming. So then I re-zeroed (which was like 20 clicks left and up) and hit the scope with a roll of clear plastic wrap(I couldn't find a rubber mallet and it seemed better then a hammer lol) a few times and the reticle shifts. I tried this about 5 different times getting various results between 1" off and the worst was a few inches low right.

I'm guessing it's the scope
Click to expand...
Sorry to hear that, but now you know.
 
b/c then you have to "break " the Loctite if you want to make adjustments to eye relief, etc- mounting screws are fine, but rings need to be moveable/removable
 
Suther said:
I would start with the rings and mounts. Everything is torqued and the locktited? Then I'd either try the scope on a diff rifle or a diff scope on your tikka.
Click to expand...

This I have had mounts and rings come lose on magnums many times also make sure scope is not sliding in the rings
LOL didnt read to the end well bushnel warranty should take care of you just may take a while
 
DEZ said:
This I have had mounts and rings come lose on magnums many times also make sure scope is not sliding in the rings
LOL didnt read to the end well bushnel warranty should take care of you just may take a while
Click to expand...

Not sure how long they take with mail in, but I have walked in a couple times to Bushnell with a defective product and walked out 5 min later with a new one.
 
dfarrell said:
Not sure how long they take with mail in, but I have walked in a couple times to Bushnell with a defective product and walked out 5 min later with a new one.
Click to expand...

That must be nice! I'm sending mine in this week but I live in Alberta. If I have it back before next deer season I'll be happy. . . . But I will likely have a new scope on my 30-06 next year.
 
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