Recommend the best black powder for a Flintlock?

.50 caliber is on the cusp for 3f and 2f. The one that works the best will depend on the rifling and your charge volume/weight.

For a flinter you want to use proper black powder. The substitutes won't flash off the pan correctly and there's lots of stories of the pan not igniting the main charge if you're using Pyrodex or Triple 7 for the main charge.

Because the pan powder is often suggested as 4f or 3f to ensure good ignition I would suggest you go with 3f just so you don't need two different granulation sizes.

The ball size and patch material and fit count for as much or more than which powder you use. So you'll need to experiment with a few different options to find the one that works for YOUR rifle. The blue and white pillow ticking from FabricLand or similar is often seen in use for patching. But it's not the only one that can work. The patch thickness works in conjunction with the ball size. And there's no other option but to try a few on some paper to find the setup that groups the best. What works for one is often the worst combination for someone else. For example I've got a percussion pistol that LOVES using the flannel cleaning patches as the ball patch. It's like it radar guided balls! But my rifle hates that same ball and patch combo.

As for powder brands Goex is one of the more commonly found black powder brands. Those that are lucky enough to have a choice will often go with the Schuetzen brand "Swiss" black powder for a possible upgrade in accuracy. I've managed to get some of both and find that I can miss just as easily with either. Again the ball and patch fit and choices count for more than any difference between the powders. The powder granulation is the next important choice and finally when those are optimized I'd say that the option of Goex vs Swiss might see some difference.

Don't discount the powder measure you use either. I prefer a longer and more narrow measure so that the "hump" on top doesn't affect the charge volume/weight by as much. But this is relative since if we go TOO small a diameter the powder won't fill evenly either.

FWIW on my two .50 caliber rifles I've had the better luck with a .490 round ball and a patch which results in a firm but not overly hard pressure to ram it home.

There's also the question of patch lube so that you keep the fouling soft and consistent between shots. This is a hotly debated topic with almost a religious like overtone to it. But the key is that you find something which cleans the bore as you ram the patch and ball home to where the ramming force is consistent. You WILL feel an added resistance after the first clean bore shot but a good and proper patch lube will ensure that the ramming resistance after that first clean bore shot stays the same from the second load and on through the rest of the day.

In my case I use "Moose Milk" made from mixing 1 part Ballistol to about 6 to 7 parts water and shake it up. This forms a white emulsion. I dribble 5 to 6 drops worth on the ruffle of the patch after the ball is set into the muzzle with the button end of a short starter. Then I long start it the rest of the way and ram home. The Ballistol and water mixture does a great job of keeping the ramming force consistent.

But then there was the day that I forgot the Moose Milk squeeze bottle at home. For that day I used the same trick as I'd seen others using. Namely putting the patch on my tongue to wet it with spit while I was measuring and dropping the powder. These "spit patches" worked just fine and in fact just as well as my Moose Milk. I just hated the feel of the cloth on my tongue all day long though.... :d
 
BCRider laid out some solid advice. In my personal experience every brand of real blackpowder performed the same. I did some research into granularity and the difference in volume size for each type (1f,2f,3fetc) wasn't significant enough for me to worry. I have chosen to shoot 3f in everything I own which ranges from 44cap and ball revolver all the way up to a brown Bess musket. Larger bp shooters aren't fussy about grain size but smaller guns are so I decided to pick what I can shoot in everything. You also might want to pick up a tiny scale to track how much you are actually putting down the tube. I have the Hornaday GS1500 and I'm very happy with it. But ya, its going to be trial and error for the first little while to zone in on what works for you. Maybe bring out a notebook to the range to track your progress
 
I prefer 3F in cal's up to 54 , and I use 4F in the pan, but 3F works great in the pan also . I have used 2F in the pan but it seems to light slower with more no fires. I find 3F makes less fouling to deal with, but 2F will also consistently shoot good, just dirtier. I am happy to find any real black, usually Goex, but those subs just do not work in a flinter. They are not much better with a PC either.
For lube I have used Bore butter, home made bee wax/canola mix , spit and the so called Moose Milk, my last choice is the moose milk.
In a flinter the best thing I find for constant ignition is to pick the flash hole every shot , and don't use to much powder in the pan. For a pick I use a tip cleaner from oxy acetylene torches. Use the one that easily fits in the vent without force when the vent is clean. These have a rough surface and quickly clean out any fouling with 1 or 2 passes.
Ball size for me is a 490 , and often I shoot a Mini / Maxi or a lee REAL bullet. You will need to try different things to see what you like.
 
Mount Sweetness said:
I am new to Flintlocks.
What would be the very best make/model of Blackpowder to use?

.50cal Lyman DeerStalker
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I would advise using only the "holy black" stuff aka Real Blackpowder. 3-FFFG is good for pan and charge. I use 4F for pan & 3F for charge.
Check out Shooters Choice in K.W. for the Holy black. You may also find that patch/roundball to be alot more accurate than a conical and less recoil too and cheaper to shoot ;)
Good luck and Welcome to muzzle loading world :D
 
Whatever you chose to do, practice a lot prior to hunting with the "flinch lock". Don't forget the hunter's creed of only taking humane kill shots [fell DRT], if you're unaccustomed with the pan ignition, or a delay of discharge, you may inadvertently pull the shot and seriously injure a deer without securing a kill.
 
I have done more hunting with smoothbores that with rifles. Used to prefer single F in the shotguns. Nowadays, I use what I can get. I believe that finer grained powder can produce higher pressures than coarser powder. I do have some rifles zeroed for hunting - a .45 flintlock, and .50 and .54 percussions. plinker 777 is right about practicing with the flintlock. You have to be sure to follow through.
 
I use FFFG for my smaller caliber guns and FFG for my big bores guns (54 and up) and my shotguns.
Pans get primed with FFFFG or FFFG if I am using it .
I spit patch at the range and use a lubed patch while hunting .
I don't shoot bullets, just round ball.
Cat
 
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Mount Sweetness said:
I am hoping to shoot either 320gr or 370gr T/C Maxi-balls. To be used on whitetail.
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antiqueguy said:
the twist rate will tell you what you can shoot but a .490 round ball in plenty for whitetail
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The use or abuse of the TC Maxi-balls will rely on the twist rate you have. You need a faster twist rate for the heavier bullets. The 1:48 is commonly seen in a lot of these reproductions since it's a nice compromise. Technically it's too fast for patched round ball and not fast enough for slugs like the Maxi's. But the Lyman Great Plains Rifle flinter I have with the 1:48 shoots just fine with the patched round ball so I don't see why it won't do OK with the Maxi rounds.
 
BCRider said:
The use or abuse of the TC Maxi-balls will rely on the twist rate you have. You need a faster twist rate for the heavier bullets. The 1:48 is commonly seen in a lot of these reproductions since it's a nice compromise. Technically it's too fast for patched round ball and not fast enough for slugs like the Maxi's. But the Lyman Great Plains Rifle flinter I have with the 1:48 shoots just fine with the patched round ball so I don't see why it won't do OK with the Maxi rounds.
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And the only way to know if the rifle will shoot them it try them in your rifle with different powder charges and different types of conical.. The rifle will decide.
 
I use 70 grains of 3F Goex in my .54 Lyman Deerstalker with a roundball (224 grains) for hunting Deer with lubed patches. I use 3F for my main charge and priming without any issues. Using multiple grains is a pain in the butt and is a waste of money in my opinion. Use 3F for everything, just remember that 70 grains of 3F is approximately equivalent to 100 grains of 2F as a main charge.
 
maple leaf said:
I use 70 grains of 3F Goex in my .54 Lyman Deerstalker with a roundball (224 grains) for hunting Deer with lubed patches. I use 3F for my main charge and priming without any issues. Using multiple grains is a pain in the butt and is a waste of money in my opinion. Use 3F for everything, just remember that 70 grains of 3F is approximately equivalent to 100 grains of 2F as a main charge.
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You are totally right that different grain size has different "oomf". It's wise to get an accurate scale to confirm weight to volume ratio
 
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