2 1/2" 12 guage

[analogdino]

Thanks, saskbooknut and vagrantviking, for the "melted plastic" comment... I had not given that a thought! Will use fibre and over-powder wads and make up the right wad column. Actually, I presume I could still use the the plastic shot cup from the WAA12SL wad (to keep the shot away from the barrel) as the hot propellant gasses are behind the over-powder and fibre wad... do you agree?
Regardless, I'll start well below 80 grains for ffg (weighed.) I only used 60 grains of ffg in my Parker-Hale 0.577 rifle and that still gave a pretty big thump to the 480 grain (1 ounce) mini-ball! My shot load will be one ounce, too.
Cheers,
Roger

 

[antiqueguy]

Thanks, saskbooknut and vagrantviking, for the "melted plastic" comment... I had not given that a thought! Will use fibre and over-powder wads and make up the right wad column. Actually, I presume I could still use the the plastic shot cup from the WAA12SL wad (to keep the shot away from the barrel) as the hot propellant gasses are behind the over-powder and fibre wad... do you agree?
Regardless, I'll start well below 80 grains for ffg (weighed.) I only used 60 grains of ffg in my Parker-Hale 0.577 rifle and that still gave a pretty big thump to the 480 grain (1 ounce) mini-ball! My shot load will be one ounce, too.
Cheers,
Roger

im hoping you are using real black powder if you are weighing it

 

[pisces-guy]

I saw tradex had some cool cheap old sxs's and ive always wanted one with external hammers but without breaking the bank. They've got a bunch of husqvarnas but they are 2 1/2 inch chambers what would a guy shoot through those? Any info would be greatly appreciated i love the look of those old double barrels and would love to be more educated on them. Thanks!

I have some Sellier & Bellot 2 1/2" 12 gauge ammo from the 60s that my dad bought at the Terrace Co-op...still works great on grouse!

 

[Roalco]

If you're worried about Kent shot sizes for clubs with shot restrictions, remember they're English sizes, their number 7's are our number 7 1/2's. Nominal .095". Talk to your club, I've never had a problem.

 

[saskbooknut]

I have not made 12 gauge fibre wad and shot-cup loads that improved patterns on the board, only degraded nice even patterns actually. It may be that I have not discovered some magic key to success.
I do not have significant problems with leading with regular fibre wad loads.
For Trap shooting we use a dab of Crisco or other lube on the top of each shell to keep the fouling soft. A wooden shell block allows your shells to stand up with lube on the top wad or crimp. Without some lube, the fouling will be caked like iron in the bore after a box of shells.
One can use lube impregnated fibre wads but I am cautious of lube migrating into the powder on a hot day. Storage of loads with the shot end down would reduce any chance of lube migration into the powder from lubed wads.

 

[oldstarfire]

If the barrel wall thickness will allow, you may be able to cut longer forcing cones and then use 2 3/4 shells of appropriate type.
This is NOT lengthening the chamber.

 

[analogdino]

I'm hoping you are using real black powder if you are weighing it

Pretty sure! This is on the tin...
"Superfine Black Rifle Powder, suitable for muskets, pistols & shotguns. Manufactured by GOEX, INC, BELIN PLANT... USA.... since 1912"
Using the same powder, I always weighed my Parker-Hale 0.577 loads.
Cheers,
Roger