686 or gp100

swinginberrys

swinginberrys

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So....as per my previous thread asking for input regarding what pistol I should be looking at next (after my shadow line comes home) I think I've made up my mind. It was between the Smith and Wesson 686 and the Ruger gp100.keep in mind I still need to find a spot I can handle them before buying but I think I'm leaning towards the Ruger. Looks sharp, hear great things about Ruger and it sounds like they are built tough. I'm digging the 6" barrels on them.
Thoughts? Pro's and cons?
 
686 and GP100 are equal with the better DA trigger going to the Smith. Lots of lies about the 686 lack of robustness out there so dont listen to them.

If your mainly shooting in SA mode and want to save afew bucks, get the Ruger.
 
I have a 627pc and have shot my buddy's 686, I also have a 4.25" GP100, you can't go wrong with any of these, all excellent to shoot although Smiths are just a bit above. I do love my 627 though, 8 shot goodness. Gotta love wheel guns!
 
I have the 686 6 inch barrel, it has a very nice trigger, I can hit a 8 inch target at a 110 yards all day long . Ive been shooting .357 mag loads since I got it , no issues so far..( about a thousand or so rnds).
 
I have both, if you put springs in the GP100 you will love it, also springs in the Smith and it is like breaking glass. When I am trying out new loads I always go to the Ruger it is tougher than the Smith, IMHO.
 
I had the same dilemma a little while ago. I handled both of them and found I liked the feel of the 686 better than the GP100. Prior to handling them, I was leaning towards the GP100. I haven't shot the 686 yet so I can't say how it feels but I hope to find out soon.
 
GP100.

I run stock springs and they really smoothed out perfectly. The more I shoot it the nicer it gets and I have no reason to switch springs, it's one of the few firearms I own that will never be for sale.
 
The 586/686 is based on the larger L-frame, was developed to handle a steady diet of full magnums, and is stronger than the smaller K-frame S&Ws e.g. 19, 66. I have never heard of any issues with a S&W L frames. It is actually slightly heavier than the Ruger equivalent GP100. If you can't try both first, you might as well get the one that looks best too you. I like them both but do find the Smith trigger a little nicer and is a more refined package overall so it would get my nod.
 
It comes down to personal preference and money. When I held my 686 for the first time I knew right away where that extra money would be going. It's a beautiful well made revolver and obviously the more refined and better looking of the two. I'd like to own both, but if I can only have one it will always be my 686.
 
There are fans for both. Both are well made revolvers. The 686 is stout, the Ruger is even stouter although for most stout is a bit academic. The Ruger's trigger is every bit as smooth as the 686 - I have them both and if it were not for the grip contour you could not tell which gun you are shooting. The Ruger sells for less but you may have to pay to have the cylinder throats opened up to .358 if you intend to shoot lead and if you do you will want to have the forcing cone cut to 11 degrees. The latter will be required on the Smith as well. One advantage the Ruger does have is the front sight can be changed out to FO easy enough without special tools in seconds. My Ruger GP 100 weighs slightly less than my 686. The 686 barrel is 105.14MM - the Ruger 4.2". Aside from the slightly longer barrel the guns are identical in size.

If you are going to shoot 38spl cartridges mostly then pick whichever revolver you like the best. If you are going to shoot a lot of .357mag then I would give the nod to the Ruger. It has an excellent 3 way lock up. For most the Ruger, if you can get it $200 under the Smith, then it represents better value IMHO. Fit and finish can be a crap shoot for both. Check both revolvers before you buy then shoot the heck out of which ever one you choose.

Take Care

Bob
 
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If you have a hammer, 1/32" punch and screw driver, then you can easily change out the 686 sights.

Lets not forget the L frame is the only frame design just for 357mag and can shoot any standard factory ammo all day.

Both 686 and GP100 are 3 way lock up.
 
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Dsiwy said:
If you have a hammer, 1/32" punch and screw driver, then you can easily change out the 686 sights.

Lets not forget the L frame is the only frame design just for 357mag and can shoot any standard factory ammo all day.
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The new ones yes. My 686 no dash, no can do.

The 686 is hell for stout, the Ruger is just a tad stouter with a better lock up system than the Smith. For most the longevity will never be an issue. Few would ever put enough full .357 loads down the pipe to ever wear either gun out. The 357mag full house loads can be hurtful if shoot in volume.

No need to defend the Smith it is an excellent gum. Personal choice should be the only dividing point IMHO.

Take Care

Bob
 
Canuck44 said:
The new ones yes. My 686 no dash, no can do.

The 686 is hell for stout, the Ruger is just a tad stouter with a better lock up system than the Smith. For most the longevity will never be an issue. Few would ever put enough full .357 loads down the pipe to ever wear either gun out. The 357mag full house loads can be hurtful if shoot in volume.

No need to defend the Smith it is an excellent gum. Personal choice should be the only dividing point IMHO.

Take Care

Bob
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Sorry but since their introductions, I have not seen even anecdotal evidence to support your claim the the GP is stronger than the L or that the no dash is not up to the task of a steady diet of full mags. Also, smith forged, ruger cast. Hey, maybe it is out there but I sure haven't seen it and I've had an ear to the ground since the late 80s.
 
The GP-100 has a better lock up than the 'Smith. Not opinion ..fact. You obviously did not read all of what I wrote. No need to defend the Smith, it is a great gun which is why I own one, buy the one you like better. Forged vs cast is a silly argument, period. Since the late 80's you say ...youngster. Age means nothing just that some are luckier than others. If you prefer a slightly heavier gun than the Smith is for you. if you like the lock built into your revolver...buy the newer Smith. Nice to have choices.

Bob
 
One thing to consider if you think you might end up using a revolver for some speed related matches. I've personally seen three Ruger GP100's that got sticky due to unburned powder getting in behind the ejector star during fast reloads. Part of this is due to the operator not upending the gun to a sharp enough angle when ejecting the empties and part is due to the fit of the star not being tolerant of the flecks of powder getting in there. But bottom line is that it happens. At least I've seen it happen on half or more of the GP100's I've seen in action. I've been the RO with the timer watching this on three occasions with three different guns and three different shooters. And a fourth owner admitted that this happened a lot to him as well. The fix is a quick brushing to clean out the area under the star.

I've not yet seen a 686 owner suffer from such an issue. And in fact short of the odd occasional rim jump which puts a rim under the star (again this is usually related to dodgy ejection technique) I've not seen anyone with ejection and reloading issues of any sort on a S&W.

I'm not trying to rain on the Ruger parade either. I own examples from both S&W and Ruger and even Alfa. It's simply an observation I've seen related specifically to the GP100 when used for competition use.
 
Canuck44 said:
Since the late 80's you say ...youngster.
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Maybe check the year the GP was introduced....

No need to get defensive. You clearly make the supposition that the Ruger is stronger, though granted you point out it is academic. I'm simply saying I have not seen actual evidence to this affect, so I don't even know if it is academic. Re: cast v forged- I'm just making the arguement in reverse.
 
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