revolver dry fire question

plinkercases

plinkercases

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Is it OK to use spent brass in place of snap caps for SA revolver dry fire drills? Centre fire and or rim fire...?
And if not just so I know.. what is the technical reason? resistance on the firing pin? is that also why snap caps have limited life span or so I have heard?
 
plinkercases said:
or rim fire...?
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I have never found anything that will last very long to dry fire with a rim fire revolver. Everything gets destroyed at some point. Some folks use drywall anchors, #5 if I recall. These are relatively inexpensive so you can buy lots. As for centre fire, sure, you can make your own with old brass but I would remove the primer and replace it with some kind of epoxy that doesn't cure rock hard.
 
The danger lies in apathy. I was taught to be very diligent in the safe handling of firearms...always, no exceptions, because once you begin to make exceptions, apathy toward basic rules can take hold.
The result is that although I know...100% positive, that none of my guns are stored loaded, I safety check and prove safe prior to cocking or pulling a trigger. With revolvers this aspect can involve verifying [by sight] that the cylinder is loaded with snap caps {that look quite different from cartridges} prior to any dry fire DA practice.

The concern is that if you become accustomed to seeing a brass cartridge in the cylinder, one day, maybe, could somehow happen, a live cartridge gets in the mix somehow and BOOM! AD incident in your home!
I know the odds are slim but there are always chances that mistakes happen, using a dedicated snap cap reduces the odds even further. (come on, they're cheap and will last forever particularly in a revolver {hot glue the primer spot when it wears out})
 
I've S & W 455 that I built snap caps for, can't buy 'em right? Drill out the primer pocket and fill the case full of Silicon. Used a JHP 45 caliber dipped in nail polish. Don't practice fire discipline much though, more loading practice.
But definitely a diligent thing, not as good as a Snap cap safety wise.
 
You should check your revolver. For my S&W with frame mounted firing pin, it was ok to dry fire without snapcaps. For S&W with the firing pin attached to the hammer, it is suggested it's better to use a snapcap. I make up dummies for reload practice and color the brass red. For my 625 with the firing pin on the hammer, I fill in the primer cavity with some rubber cement.
 
I'm with Plinker re the safety factor. I use metal Snap Caps for my centre-fires. The added weight makes "things" more realistic…..
I use a plastic dummy rounds and only dry fire my rim-fires (for function testing) after cleaning.
 
i use drywall anchors for rimfires and for the centrefires i have about 50 or so brass with bullets crimped in place and red silicone in the primer pocket.

use for dryfire and reload practice

keep them in a separate room where you practice and never bring ammo in there - less chance of a whoops
 
I use #4 drywall anchors in my 22 rimfire. Semi auto they jam trying to feed from a mag, because they're not ridged enough. But great for my single action and my single shots. Or dropping the hammer and just leaving the anchor in.
 
Thanks everyone for the comments. I am not asking because I am cheap, in fact I had just bought 12 38spl snap caps so money wasn't the issue. I just want to learn.
I can certainly see the concern with becoming casual with brass dummies but there have been some good safety solutions as well such as painting and separate room storage and use.
I had wondered about getting a loader to make some empty rounds without primers but with lead for weight and feeding/cycling tests on the lever guns.
 
For a modern centrefire revolver with a transfer bar dry firing without snap caps should not damage it. The issue with dry firing comes from older revolvers with hammer mounted firing pins or rimfire revolvers, where dry firing can damage the firing pin or chamber. In those cases you should definitely use snap caps. As others have already pointed out you should also be sure to use adequate precautions whenever dry firing to avoid NDs.
 
Paladin308 said:
For a modern centrefire revolver with a transfer bar dry firing without snap caps should not damage it. The issue with dry firing comes from older revolvers with hammer mounted firing pins or rimfire revolvers, where dry firing can damage the firing pin or chamber. In those cases you should definitely use snap caps. As others have already pointed out you should also be sure to use adequate precautions whenever dry firing to avoid NDs.
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I have two Ruger revolvers in .22LR rimfire Single-six (New Model) and Single-ten.
Both have transfer bars and Ruger says no problem dry-firing these.
My Centrefire Revolvers also have transfer bars (One is S&W 586 the other is Blackhawk (new model) 357 mag/9mm)
 
3strokes said:
I have two Ruger revolvers in .22LR rimfire Single-six (New Model) and Single-ten.
Both have transfer bars and Ruger says no problem dry-firing these.
My Centrefire Revolvers also have transfer bars (One is S&W 586 the other is Blackhawk (new model) 357 mag/9mm)
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If the manufacturer says it's OK then it's probably OK. The main issue with dry firing rimfires is that without a cartridge present the firing pin can strike the side of the chamber. For a gun using high-quality modern alloy steel for both these parts this shouldn't be an issue. In older or lower quality rimfires though this can deform the chamber or firing pin causing malfunctions.
 
3strokes said:
I have two Ruger revolvers in .22LR rimfire Single-six (New Model) and Single-ten.
Both have transfer bars and Ruger says no problem dry-firing these.
My Centrefire Revolvers also have transfer bars (One is S&W 586 the other is Blackhawk (new model) 357 mag/9mm)
Click to expand...

Interesting. Don't know what the transfer bar has to do with it though. I'll have to check into this...you have me curious now...
 
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