Dating and Restoring Old 870 Wingmaster

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Hi All,

I have acquired an older 870 Wingmaster that I am trying to determine its date of manufacture as well as restore/clean up the rusting that has developed on it due to improper storage.

I think from the 2 3/4" fixed choke non-ribbed 30" barrel that it is 1950's or 60's manufacture. I've gone to this site (http://www.rem870.com/remington-serial-number-lookup/) to try and determine the date of manufacture but it there are three letters, not two stamped on the barrel, "E B H". If you go by E-B, I think it would be a 1956 or by B-H it would be 1961. Can you determine from the wood stock/forend type what year-range it would be?

Also, as far the the rust on it goes, it doesn't look too bad and I think it could be taken off easily enough but I would like to do it in a way that damages the original blueing on the barrel/receiver as little as possible. I have heard that apply gun-oil and lightly rubbing with some #0000 steel wool would work.

And for the wood stock/forend, still in decent shape but I would like to protect the wood in the areas where the previous protective finish has been scratched away. What type of application would work in this case?

Thanks in advance for any help.

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My suggestion, the gun is an older no-frills 870 version with little collector value but high user/hunting value. Don't be afraid to alter the bluing and/or the stock finish in fear of lessening it's value. The good news is that the rust although extensive only looks superficial. I'd remove the rust using the method you described and not stop there, I'd take the whole receiver bluing off and do it over with a cold bluing kit. As for the stock, again, looks like only shallow scratches, I'd totally remove the finish and do a multiple coat in Tru-oil, finished product would be a sharp looking gun with legendary innards!
 
here is the before and after of mine, That wood looks awesome once stripped and restained. I cut it down as well since the barrel was rusted near the end.

Picked mine up for 250, even once restored I wouldn't think you would get much more since its pitted.

10426188_10152932215713552_3169807984609495877_n.jpg
 
DILLIGAF said:
here is the before and after of mine, That wood looks awesome once stripped and restained. I cut it down as well since the barrel was rusted near the end.

Picked mine up for 250, even once restored I wouldn't think you would get much more since its pitted.

10426188_10152932215713552_3169807984609495877_n.jpg
Click to expand...

That's what I'm talking about!!! Looks good.
 
The OP has a nice old 870. Do yourself a favor and stay away from cold blue. It is a terrible finish.
I have seen a couple nice cold blue jobs fail. One in a gun case where it bloomed with rust. The other failed in the bush in the first rain shower.
Clean up the reciever and find someone to give it a real hot blue. It is really not that expensive. 9$ finish in a bottle is just that.....cheap.
 
willisjake said:
The OP has a nice old 870. Do yourself a favor and stay away from cold blue. It is a terrible finish.
I have seen a couple nice cold blue jobs fail. One in a gun case where it bloomed with rust. The other failed in the bush in the first rain shower.
Clean up the reciever and find someone to give it a real hot blue. It is really not that expensive. 9$ finish in a bottle is just that.....cheap.
Click to expand...

Totally agree with you but if cost is an issue a properly applied cold bluing kit is an inferior but cost-effective solution. Altough not nearly as durable as hot bluing it would certainly look better that the original bluing with the rust removed. I applied one on my workhorse BPS a couple of years back and for the money was happy with the results YMMV.
 
The OP's wingmaster looks eerily similar in vintage to my own though my bluing is better. Like one commentator said, its not high on a collectors radar, but well cleaned and oiled, they still function...


Nub buck with buckshot this Fall :)
 
Some may want to keep her original as possible, yet as noted above, there really is no collector value here; she will be an excellent shooter, tho.
A good way to revitalize and dress up an old girl like this is with a Boyds American Planinsman stock/forearm combo in walnut.
Excellent fit and finish, good recoil pad, and better functionality with decent looks.

https://www.boydsgunstocks.com/design-gallery/american-plainsman-buttstocks-and-forends
 
Regarding the date of manufacture, contact Remington Customer Service and provide them the serial number on the receiver, they should be able to tell you the year.
I've contacted them by email a couple of times for date of manufacture and they've been really good (and quick) about getting back to me.
 
2 3/4" October 1955 from what I can see for the barrel and wood. Doesn't mean it is original to the receiver however being a 870 and the swaps those have seen over the years
Cheers
 
Last edited:
Thank you all for the replies

I have no interest in selling it, but I do want to keep it well maintained so this 60 year-old Wingmaster can live on another 60 years.
 
My first shotgun bought used at a gun show was a 1957 Wingmaster that looked just like yours. The action was slick as snot on a doorknob but I really wanted the versatility of a 3-inch gun with chokes so I sold it and got an Express. But yours should do everything you want it to.
 
I wouldn't spend much on it, but I would clean it up and enjoy it. It is worth keeping .
The stock looks serviceable enough and a strip and coat or 6 of tru oil will give it many more years. Lay a wet rag on the dents in the wood after sanding and iron them to puff up the wood again. If the fibers are not broken this works quite well. It may take a couple tries.
It looks like it was stored in a vinyl case and has lots of pits in the receiver and barrel. I would just clean these up with 0000 steel wool and oil. Those receivers don't seem to take cold blue to well , so it is what it is. That barrel isn't going to be good with steel shot , and new barrels with removable chokes are everywhere. It is always going to be a 2 3/4" wingmaster , and reliable.
 
Don't count the old Wing out yet. It can be turned into a 3 inch gun in two steps. First, find a barrel with a 3 inch chamber, I use an Express barrel. Second, have the ejector changed by a smith to a 3 inch version. Cost a bout 100$. Don't worry about the pressure, all Wings were and are still made off the same receiver design, it will be 100% safe.

I have this done to my 1953 Wing, and have been using ot for three years now. It see's more field time than all the others in the safe.

Enjoy
 
ianthomson said:
Don't count the old Wing out yet. It can be turned into a 3 inch gun in two steps. First, find a barrel with a 3 inch chamber, I use an Express barrel. Second, have the ejector changed by a smith to a 3 inch version. Cost a bout 100$. Don't worry about the pressure, all Wings were and are still made off the same receiver design, it will be 100% safe.

I have this done to my 1953 Wing, and have been using ot for three years now. It see's more field time than all the others in the safe.

Enjoy
Click to expand...

Agree but before one even goes to the smith check the gun to make sure it doesn't have one already. Many of these do since they have been replaced over the years
In fact all of my 50's wingmasters have the 3" ejector in the receiver despite being sold as 2 3/4 guns originally
Cheers
 
willisjake said:
The OP has a nice old 870. Do yourself a favor and stay away from cold blue. It is a terrible finish.
I have seen a couple nice cold blue jobs fail. One in a gun case where it bloomed with rust. The other failed in the bush in the first rain shower.
Clean up the reciever and find someone to give it a real hot blue. It is really not that expensive. 9$ finish in a bottle is just that.....cheap.
Click to expand...
I have cleaned up ,,,, maybe 200 -300 of guns like this over the last 25 yrs. for me & friends.
My process is inexpensive & easy ;
1 - Well oiled , Med. grade , steel wool for all blued steel . Cold blue to touch up small areas & then keep oiled .
2 - Minwax Tung Oil to touch up or complete refinish wood if needed . If complete job , then chemically strip & steel wool .
Sandpaper only as a last resort .
3 - Certainly a complete strip of action to clean , lube , repair as needed.

It is true that this gun is not a costly collectors item now ,,,,, but still a classy good gun , so be careful what you do
that can not be undone latter in history . Remember all those Lee Enfield's that where sold for $7. in the 1950's
and mostly sporterized . Now we wish more of them where left original.

Basically ,,,,, careful cleaning & touching up is always good. Major refinishing will effect it's life forever .
I have done complete guns with "Cold Blue" several times ,,,,,, BUT would not recommend this , unless the gun has no
or little blue & the cost of a hot blue is not in the budget.

Frank
 
Frank McFarquhar said:
I have cleaned up ,,,, maybe 200 -300 of guns like this over the last 25 yrs. for me & friends.
My process is inexpensive & easy ;
1 - Well oiled , Med. grade , steel wool for all blued steel . Cold blue to touch up small areas & then keep oiled .
2 - Minwax Tung Oil to touch up or complete refinish wood if needed . If complete job , then chemically strip & steel wool .
Sandpaper only as a last resort .
3 - Certainly a complete strip of action to clean , lube , repair as needed.

It is true that this gun is not a costly collectors item now ,,,,, but still a classy good gun , so be careful what you do
that can not be undone latter in history . Remember all those Lee Enfield's that where sold for $7. in the 1950's
and mostly sporterized . Now we wish more of them where left original.

Basically ,,,,, careful cleaning & touching up is always good. Major refinishing will effect it's life forever .
I have done complete guns with "Cold Blue" several times ,,,,,, BUT would not recommend this , unless the gun has no
or little blue & the cost of a hot blue is not in the budget.

Frank
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I will try the Tung Oil on the stock as I wasn't really wanting to completely strip, sand and re-finish it.

I have it completely down into parts at the moment. Working on carefully removing the rust and build up without damaging the blued finish. I will post the 'after' pictures once it's complete.
 
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