Full length case resizing vs neck resizing?

And did what with it .

That was in response to Gunneegoogoo's post, above mine.

It's a home-made comparator. You drill a hole - slightly larger than the diameter of the case neck but smaller than the body - through the side of a large nut. Sticking your case neck into the hole allows easy measurement of the case shoulder.
 
Good answer , is it possible to have one gun for two applications and load accurate rnds for both applications? Let's say target shooting out to 500 yards and hunting . Do we need two different sets of dies for that or can it be done with one. Or do we need a diff gun for every style of shooting? Couldn't I make an accurate load for my Tikka3 Varminter ,SS,HB using Barnes TTSX tips and use that for hunting and target shooting? OP is doing the same thing only a different CAL and gun. And if so what's the best FL or NS, or at least what has the potential to be the best? And least complicated?I'd like to do it all with FL dies. FL size , then NS, then bump the shoulder. Anyhow I plan on getting a couple of new measuring tools and go from there. One more thing , I'd be happy with 3/4 MOA.... For now:)

Leaving all the technical stuff aside, of course you can use the same riffle for both applications. The only thing is that hunting bullets (say Nolser Partions) are way to expensive for target so you will have to develop loads for each application.

As a side note I'm in the camp that thinks your hunting rounds should be as accurate if not more accurate as your target rounds.
 
Good answer , is it possible to have one gun for two applications and load accurate rnds for both applications? Let's say target shooting out to 500 yards and hunting . Do we need two different sets of dies for that or can it be done with one. Or do we need a diff gun for every style of shooting? Couldn't I make an accurate load for my Tikka3 Varminter ,SS,HB using Barnes TTSX tips and use that for hunting and target shooting? OP is doing the same thing only a different CAL and gun. And if so what's the best FL or NS, or at least what has the potential to be the best? And least complicated?I'd like to do it all with FL dies. FL size , then NS, then bump the shoulder. Anyhow I plan on getting a couple of new measuring tools and go from there. One more thing , I'd be happy with 3/4 MOA.... For now:)

Actually, we had no idea what the OP was trying to do in post 1. All he was asking was how to size his cases using a Dillon 550B. But with no actual info about the rifle or application, it would be pointless to guess.. which is exactly what I said and have been saying.

The only question that could be given an answer was to #1... YES, you can use any standard die from all major brands in the 550.

Question #2 and 3 are what this is all about and there is still plenty of missing info. Alot the OP simply will not be able to answer, but I will email him some basic tests he can do so that we can move ahead to get him some functional dies.

Then in post #34, the OP indicated the type of rifle he wanted to load for and now we can give him, and you, more info. That X bolt might instead have been a Savage 99 or an AR15.. would you have loaded the same for these?

Before giving an answer, I like to have a complete question first... I think most should too.

Since both of you are using modern front locking bolt actions which I assume are in good working order, the short answer to your question is Yes, you can make ammo that is accurate, within the limits of your barrel that will function under normal hunting conditions.

The techniques will be similar to what the average F class competitor does (we need our ammo to function under rain and dirt too) except you will have more potholes to look out for.

The limits are the condition of rifle, type of tools you are willing to get, quality of bullet you want to use (hunting bullets aren't always as accurate as we like), level of load tuning you are willing to take. Assume proper basic rifle prep has already been done or will be done.

Without being too technical, for the rifles in question (Tikka and Xbolt or similar), you will need to neck size and body size as separate operations. The goal is to keep the brass as close to the dimensions it had after its first firing. Multiple firings may distort the case so you need to use the right dies or tools to return the case dimensionally to what you need/want.

Load pressures, quality of action lock up, chamber quality in roundness and trueness are some of the hurdles that affect WHAT to use for dies in the sizing process. So more info is needed about the fired case. The more you want to fire a case in a factory rifle, the more problems may crop up. It just depends on the state of the rifle you have in your hands.

There are plenty of good ones. There are plenty not so good. No one can guess what you have in your hands - brand, model and chambering have no bearing on how that rifle was put together. Ironically, neither does price.

These are not problems quality match rifles or properly built custom hunting rifles need to worry about because all of these variables were corrected during assembly.

Jerry
 
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