Boyd's stock -- where to send to refinish?

Did a third coat today, taking care to wipe off the excess after 30 minutes... looking awesome!!
I switched to Schaftol "dark" and used my hands. After 5 coats, I'll post photos.
What did I learn? Just to go for it and have no fear of failure. Don't be in a rush in prepping the surface. Don't f@$k around with "slurries" and wood fillers. Minor natural pores, grain lines, and laminate lines look MUCH better with an oiled finish. Just sand smooth (100-150-300 grit), clean off dust with a tack cloth (and vacuum), wipe down the surface with a damp rag to open the pores and let dry, apply a thin coat of oil of choice by hand, let sit for 30 or so minutes, wipe off the excess, and let dry 24 hours at room temperature. Repeat the oil application process until you're satisfied with the degree of sheen and how well the grain pattern stands out. Different woods and conditions and tastes will dictate how many coats you will require. If you f@$k up, sand smooth and start again. Use a sanding block to avoid over-rounding edges. Lastly, DON'T allow a build-up on the surface! Oil is clearly meant for a deep subsurface finish. The Chinese have been doing this for thousands of years, and I think they figured out the tricks :)
 
Well, after 3 coats of Tung oil and 4 or 5 coats of Schaftol "dark" German oil, I finally finished my Boyd's laminate stock refinishing project. The stock is made of laminate birch. After I learned that the wood is birch, not walnut, I was "re-inspired" to oil refinish it--as I had very good success with two previous laminate SKS stocks.

The key, as I noted above, was a full 24-hours between coats (patience is something I am learning), and to ensure that after 30-45 minutes of soak-in time, to wipe off the excess. Oil is meant to reside IN the wood, not on top of the wood.

I am very happy with the results. I did some very minor Dremel work with the stock to get it to fit my 1948 FN commercial small-ring action and Pac-Nor No. 4 contour barrel (mainly around the longer barrel base area--needed to be opened up a bit), including having it professionally glass bedded. I have never owned a stock that fits so tight. Zero play. My only gripe with the stock, aside from an UGLY (but admittedly extremely durable) factory finish, was that the action sits about ~1.5mm too high. As a result, there was a noticeable gap between the bolt release and the stock. I fixed that by adding a small piece of wood (sourced from an old wood ruler :) ) and blending it with the stock using a permanent black ink marker and 0000 steel wool. I was impressed with myself, as it turned out really well and you can hardly notice.

I had the bolt handle cut-out done prior to my original bolt handle breaking at the weld (part of a long string of bad luck), so it currently sports my spare M954 Mauser bolt, which I also had colour case hardened. My original bolt is with Jason Spencer at Gunco getting properly repaired. I will use it once it's back from repairs and re-colour case hardened by Oskar Kob.

My camera doesn't take a great picture in artificial light, but you get an idea of how the oil refinish turned out...

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Oh, and I had one heck of a time re-forming the "recoil pad" as I did remove some material from the stock and I needed to reform the recoil pad to fit. In the end, I found that freezing the recoil pad and using 280 grit sandpaper worked great. I also opened up the screw holes on the recoil pad to allow me to better center it onto the stock. I ended up also gluing the sucker down. If I ever have to remove it, or want to upgrade to another recoil pad, I will need a band saw! :)
 
A few more pics of the metal (again, not great quality photos)...

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This shows the bedding job to fill the large-ring gap. It's actually desirable to fit a small-ring 98 action to a large-ring 98 stock, as it allow ample space to add a good strong layer of bedding compound. This photo was taken before stock refinishing and before I re-lacquered the action and scope bases.
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I have to throw out a slightly different opinion. Obviously to each their own and props for doing what you want to, but unbelievable color case hardening on an action like that begs desperately for figured walnut or even maple.

Not intended at all as a criticism but I find that the busy and dark look of the stock takes away from the true star of the show and that's some Oskar Kob artwork on the metal.
 
jzz30tt said:
I have to throw out a slightly different opinion. Obviously to each their own and props for doing what you want to, but unbelievable color case hardening on an action like that begs desperately for figured walnut or even maple.

Not intended at all as a criticism but I find that the busy and dark look of the stock takes away from the true star of the show and that's some Oskar Kob artwork on the metal.
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You have a good point, but it seems to look much better in reality as the stock is darker than the photos and provides good contrast with the CCH. I will say that this stock is a temporary solution.

I am toying with the idea of dropping the barrelled-action into a S&L M52 stock, which is basically a former K98 stock that was cut down, fore end slimmed and barrel channel cut to accommodate a heavier barrel. I was thinking of buying such a stock and refinishing it to perfection. I am not a big fan of fancy sporter stocks, and I actually like the simple lines of a cut down military stock.

My end game is a practical hunting rifle that also looks good. The CCH is fully lacquered and provides very good protection from the elements, the stainless barrel is virtually maintenance free, and the action itself is butter smooth and 100% reliable. I can mount Leupold, Burris, and Redfield standard rings, and thus accommodate any scope I want.

The stock must also be practical, but I don't want synthetic. I also don't want to ding-up an exceptionally fancy piece of wood.
 
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Great Job K! A little note on pics, I have found by using lights instead of flash, pictures show better. Solid, one color background also put more attention to the items photographed.

How can you go wrong with a FN Action in a Boyds thumbhole. :)
 
Exotic looking, finish is very smooth,, nice and really like the case hardening, can I ask approx what that much hardening would cost a fella? Great job! Oh yea, do you think the German oil made the stock a lot darker or were you just experimenting!
 
bobdbldr said:
Exotic looking, finish is very smooth,, nice and really like the case hardening, can I ask approx what that much hardening would cost a fella? Great job! Oh yea, do you think the German oil made the stock a lot darker or were you just experimenting!
Click to expand...

That is the masterful workmanship of Oskar Kob. Prices vary depending on prep work. I would call him directly and discuss your project needs. He is friendly and respectable. I have had many metal parts CCH'd by him-- and everthing he does exceeds my expectations. There isn't much I won't CCH. ;)

I use both tung oil and Schaftol dark. The tung provides a bit more weather resistance, the Schaftol gives the wood a nice low lustre finish and helps to darken the wood. Schaftol also contains a wee bit of silicone to help seal the wood and is great for a yearly wipe down. It is 99% all-natural and is non-toxic, and as such, I use my hands to apply.
 
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