The World's Finest Trimmer is powered by an electric hand drill. It uses a 3/8 inch milling cutter with a bushing in a bearing. After setting to the desired length, you insert a case into the bearing, up to its shoulder and the cutter shortens the brass case. It can work fine, up to a point.
Firstly, their ad says, that by flicking the case upon withdrawl, the burr will be removed. Well, as my sainted grandmother, long since departed, would say: That's Codswallop! Perhaps, if you're just removing a whisker from a light case like a Hornet or .223, it will work. But not when you're removing brass from military .30/'06, .303. or .308. There's still a healthy burr to remove.
If a chip lodges in the shoulder, or there's some lube collected there, the case can come out long. I often use my Lyman crank-em to remove the last tiny bit. If you neck size your brass, and haven't set the shoulder all the way back, you can find that some long cases don't get trimmed. This is really noticeable in my .303's, when I neck size them, with generous chambers.
While the WFT's aren't cheap, be aware that they charge $50 US for mailing them in a $7 flat rate box.
Firstly, their ad says, that by flicking the case upon withdrawl, the burr will be removed. Well, as my sainted grandmother, long since departed, would say: That's Codswallop! Perhaps, if you're just removing a whisker from a light case like a Hornet or .223, it will work. But not when you're removing brass from military .30/'06, .303. or .308. There's still a healthy burr to remove.
If a chip lodges in the shoulder, or there's some lube collected there, the case can come out long. I often use my Lyman crank-em to remove the last tiny bit. If you neck size your brass, and haven't set the shoulder all the way back, you can find that some long cases don't get trimmed. This is really noticeable in my .303's, when I neck size them, with generous chambers.
While the WFT's aren't cheap, be aware that they charge $50 US for mailing them in a $7 flat rate box.