BERTN...heres my pot (strictly medicinal )

yomomma

yomomma

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Location
Ontario - Hamilton area
bracket
braket_zpsmfwzkgkn.jpg

bracket in pot
braket2_zpskxttemxh.jpg


Pot with heating elements
elements_zpslolknbcf.jpg


pot cover

cover_zpsekx3bqif.jpg
 
Neatto! I'm thinking of getting a bolt 458 WIN MAG or lever 45-70 one of these days just so I can play with cast bullets. It would likely work pretty handily for the 44 REM MAG too...
It does seem like it would be fun ;)
 
Here's the thing...I have shot more slugs "for fun" in the last month than I have in the 30 years before I started reloading slugs. After I got home today it took me 30 minutes to reload all the shells I shot :)

And its costing me next to nothing
 
I've seen lots of people with reloading setups for centerfire rifle, but not much for shotshell reloading. How long do the shells last? I'm assuming some brands last longer than others though.
 
Have you any pictures of the pour spout inside & out . I need to build a new bottom pour outfit ( my 40 yr old Lee wouldn't quit leaking at the spout so I closed it off). Since then I have just used it for ladle pouring but have fount ladle filling with a double cav mold somewhat troublesome getting both filled evenly & adequately.
 
Pour spout is just a grease nipple with the ball and spring punched out. This was my first crack at it and I would do things a little different if I ever did it again.

doing a water test

[video]http://vid1061.photobucket.com/albums/t477/yomma4/spout_zpss0ejtego.mp4[/video]
 
Where did you get the heating elements and what wattage are they? When I built my pot I used a 2600 watt element from a stove, and while it all works, I'm not as pleased with the result as I'd like.
 
Elements I have are from a toaster oven. generally there are 4 in an oven. two different wattages. One of the higher wattages goes on the bottom and the lower wattage one goes on the top,

The elements need to be bent carefully

[video]http://vid1061.photobucket.com/albums/t477/yomma4/coil_zps2vttme9n.mp4[/video]
 
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Thanks so much!! Good idea to post it here so every MacGuyver can benefit from it :)

Still have some questions.
Pour spout is just a grease nipple with the ball and spring punched out. This was my first crack at it and I would do things a little different if I ever did it again.
What would you do differently in your next build?
When looking at the second pic it seems that you stuffed insulation between the pot and shield? Roxul or something else?
What kind of toaster oven did u use?

Thanks again.
 
bertn said:
Thanks so much!! Good idea to post it here so every MacGuyver can benefit from it :)

Still have some questions.
Pour spout is just a grease nipple with the ball and spring punched out. This was my first crack at it and I would do things a little different if I ever did it again.
What would you do differently in your next build?I used a lot of big hunks of steal, I would try to eliminate a lot of bulk as it just turns into a huge heat sink.
When looking at the second pic it seems that you stuffed insulation between the pot and shield? Roxul or something else? yes Roxul
What kind of toaster oven did u use? benevolent special, some toaster ovens have quartz heating elements

Thanks again.
Click to expand...
No problem
 
I thought you meant that you would build the pour spout differently.
About the spout; why horizontal instead of vertical?
Does that not make it hard "aiming for the mold hole?

When looking at the water test video it shows the water flowing out in an arc,
how does lead come out? Arc or straight down?
 
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I do have a spout that faces down on it.(now) I used a thick steal block that I drilled and tapped for the grease nipple, if you don't use it for 10-15 minutes it has the tendency to clog up. no biggie I hit it with one of my little butane torches and its game on in a few seconds. Once you hit the higher temperatures more than 700 you dont have that problem anymore

I really love using it. It is working like a charm and is virtually drip free
 
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