Question, Safe disposal?

[RassilonMonk]

Hey guys,

when you are reloading at home what do you do with potentially dangerous brass/primers/etc. I had one cartridge where the primer is well on an angle and too dangerous in my opinion to mess with it. I don't just want to chuck it in the bin. Also, I have another completed round (came in a bulk ammo purchase) where the bullet is seated far too deep and I wasn't able to get it out with the kinetic hammer and feel it too is unsafe.

How do you guys deal with these occasional issues of safe disposal? Thanks for any tips, so far you guys have been very helpful!

-W.

 

[bsand]

Dud bin at the range.

 

[dirtybarry]

For damaged primers, I remove all powder from the area, make sure I have safety glasses on and press it out with the regular decapping die. No problems, yet. For the bullet seating issue, that seems really strange that it won't move, I would try harder and make sure that it's being hit against a hard surface like a concrete floor. I've pulled heavily crimped bullets but sometimes it can take 4 or 5 good solid whacks.

 

[camster]

I recently got into a grudge match with a 'surp round and a kinetic hammer...something was going to give. I lost count at 40 whacks (dang 'ol Lizzie Borden rhyme), it eventually came apart. I saved the works in a ziplock bag.

 

[Cleftwynd]

Use your seating die and push the bullet farther in slightly to break the grip/seal. Then the kinetic hammer will work.

 

[Lionel]

A little trick to get "sticky" bullets to move, is to first push 'em a little deeper in the case to break the shellac, or crazy glue or whatever is holding 'em in place. Just a tiny bit, 1 or 2 mm or so, and then the kinetic hammer ought to pop the naughty bullet out.

Used this little trick a while back to load some Mexican Match hunting bullets for a buddy in 7.62x39. Without breaking that seal, I could have shingled a roof, and only removed a few bullets.

 

[roadcarver]

For removing projectiles, if you have a turret press, remove the turret, place the loaded round into the shell holder, raise the ram, grab a pair of pliers and grip the bullet. Pull down the ram and the bullet should come out. I do this with my press. If you have a single stage, remove the die from the press.

As for primers squished, do what dirtybarry suggested. Using the decapping die, slowly will push out the primer.

 

[Splatter]

If you really want to get the powder out of the round with the bullet pushed in, just use side cutters. Dump the powder out and you're fine.
The sideways primer, just pop it out in your decapping die.
Obviously don't see how fast you can do it, be sensible.
Always wear safety glasses when you are dealing with live primers, and if you think you are going to set one off (on purpose) wear ear protection, those suckers are surprisingly loud!

It's also surprisingly rare to set one off, even if you are (sort of) trying. I've been reloading since the late 1960's. I have accidentally set-off a grand total of 1. And my practices have been occasionally been a little sloppy.

I've worn the safety glasses since the mid-'80's, just because it seems like a good idea.

 

[freezer filler]

It's also surprisingly rare to set one off, even if you are (sort of) trying. I've been reloading since the late 1960's. I have accidentally set-off a grand total of 1. And my practices have been occasionally been a little sloppy.

I've worn the safety glasses since the mid-'80's, just because it seems like a good idea.

Better safe than sorry!

 

[t-star]

and , if you ever get a bullet seated below the shoulder or it's too deep for the bullet puller, you can use a TUBING CUTTER like the plumbers use to cut the case- there's no spark unless you do it quickly- SLOW is the name of the game when you're disassembling ammo- anybody that has had LEE equipment knows all about sideways and inverted primers-you can also use that tubing cutter for removing the powder , and saving the case to make a 45acp case from a 308/243/3006- anything without a belt- just set it so the case and head are the same length as your 45 acp- and it does a NEATER job than sidecutters

 

[t-star]

a little more education and you'll realise that the ONLY way that a round will DETONATE is with a HARD WHACK to the primer by something- crush sides and slight dents mean NOTHING- you should be inspecting each and every round you load anyway, and culling those that don't look right-they go back into the bin for further analysis or re-processing that way you'll be able to spot neck splits, Imminent case head separations anda host of other problems before you chamber that round-

 

[shortandlong]

and , if you ever get a bullet seated below the shoulder or it's too deep for the bullet puller, you can use a TUBING CUTTER like the plumbers use to cut the case- there's no spark unless you do it quickly- SLOW is the name of the game when you're disassembling ammo- anybody that has had LEE equipment knows all about sideways and inverted primers-you can also use that tubing cutter for removing the powder , and saving the case to make a 45acp case from a 308/243/3006- anything without a belt- just set it so the case and head are the same length as your 45 acp- and it does a NEATER job than sidecutters

Beat me to it ,

 

[bsand]

and , if you ever get a bullet seated below the shoulder or it's too deep for the bullet puller, you can use a TUBING CUTTER like the plumbers use to cut the case- there's no spark unless you do it quickly- SLOW is the name of the game when you're disassembling ammo- anybody that has had LEE equipment knows all about sideways and inverted primers-you can also use that tubing cutter for removing the powder , and saving the case to make a 45acp case from a 308/243/3006- anything without a belt- just set it so the case and head are the same length as your 45 acp- and it does a NEATER job than sidecutters

Tubing cutters do not spark, they don't rely on abrasives and non-iron metals won't spark either. Tubing cutters work on the principal of displacement cutting. Which is exactly what it sounds like. It forces the material to either side of the blade, which is why you have to ream the pipe, as the displaced medium is left as a burr.

 

[supernova]

I keep a used 1 lb jug with a label that says "Waste powder, do not use" for any excess stuff that will never be loaded. Like pulling surplus bullets or factory rounds.