Anyone on here done one? Not worried about the DA as its all but useless as the only way you can use DA is to manually lower the hammer on a live round. I just want to improve the SA. My SA trigger pull is rather gritty just before let off. Few things on You Tube but not sure I am willing to start sanding hammer and sear yet. Like to hear from someone who has actually done it??? Thanks
Trigger Job on a CZ 75B?
- Thread starter SUPER TENERE
- Start date
Look at parts on czcustom, they do ship to Canada. The other option is cajungunworks but they don't ship to Canada.
I had access to parts from cajungunworks but have worked on the sear as well. I don't recommend doing that if you do not have access to parts readily
I had access to parts from cajungunworks but have worked on the sear as well. I don't recommend doing that if you do not have access to parts readily
Pistolwhiptricks
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Mississauga
Lol! I was thinking the exact same thing.
Other than doing parts upgrades I would just shoot and dry fire the gun. You will see improvement.
Because 99% of CZ owners don't shoot IPSC. If I'm at the range I insert a mag,work the slide and shoot single action. I have zero need to shoot double action. Sorry but your thinking as someone who primarily competes,most of the country doesn't.
If you go into the insides and massage the surfaces yourself keep in mind that "less is more". Don't power up the Dremel with any sanding or buffing wheels. Instead a super fine ceramic stone or perhaps a little rubbing on some super fine "sharpening" films that are up around 1800 or higher in grit level is the way to go. These films should be backed by smooth metal so they act more like a good ceramic super fine stone. And watch your angles. You want to polish the surfaces without greatly rounding things over or altering the angles of the faces. A strong magnifying glass to inspect the angles and faces is a handy thing to use as well so you can monitor the faces and alter your angle of hold as required.
If you google for "cz trigger job" you'll find some sites with pictures that detail a lot of different steps in how best to do such work. There's more to it than just the hammer and sear contact points. There's a lot to be gained by doing the whole action from trigger pivot and return spring to the sear and hammer hooks. But I strongly suggest you ignore the ones that start with "plug in the Dremel then....." or that consider 320 emery as a "fine polishing abrasive".
I've done mine and it quickly pointed out the need for some sort of stoning jig to ensure that I could hold the angles to my own standards of accuracy.
The "jig" is just a 0.75 x 1.5 x 6 inch bar of aluminium with an edge hole done in a drill press which takes a piece of round drill rod. The side of the bar has a bunch of drilled and tapped holes to take various sizes of screws that hold the parts flat against the face so the stoning remains square and level to the pivots. But while extremely simple to make it DOES require a drill press to ensure the holes are all drilled square. It also requires the use of a magnifying glass and some analysis of the angles to ensure that the hook angles of the sear and hammer remain negative and self engaging to a fine degree. If used wrong it would be easy to hone the angles so that they are positive with respect to the pivot points and that the hammer and sear would want to self release. And that's the danger in doing this.
It's also quite likely that if you've shot your gun for a few hundred rounds that the gritty feeling is no longer from the sear and hammer hooks. These surfaces tend to self burnish due to the pressure and rubbing during shooting. But the rest of the linkages from trigger to sear don't self burnish themselves in the same way. For example, the trigger bow has a pair of cut "V" grooves on the hidden side that run on matching V points in the frame. These grooves tend to be cut rather crudely and it makes the trigger bow move along the riding point in a series of waves. It may be that which you're feeling too. Then there's the DA foot that runs along a slope in the frame regardless of if you're shooting in DA or SA mode. That too will telegraph any roughness back to the trigger. It's a package sort of deal. So if you go into the guts be prepared to deal with ALL of the points and don't assume that it's just the sear to hammer which it likely isn't other than on a brand new gun.
I'd have to say that a good number of folks can be found shooting their Shadows in different sorts of matches. And we do manage to lower the hammers safely onto a live round. So it's not the big bugaboo that some of you make it out to be. And frankly to those that don't take part in any sort of hand gun competitions you're missing out on a lot of fun. It doesn't need to be IPSC or IDPA. There's some others at the club level too. Dive on in, the water is fine. And if you really can't get over the idea of lowering the hammer in a safe manner than just shoot in one of the categories that starts out cocked and locked.
If you google for "cz trigger job" you'll find some sites with pictures that detail a lot of different steps in how best to do such work. There's more to it than just the hammer and sear contact points. There's a lot to be gained by doing the whole action from trigger pivot and return spring to the sear and hammer hooks. But I strongly suggest you ignore the ones that start with "plug in the Dremel then....." or that consider 320 emery as a "fine polishing abrasive".
I've done mine and it quickly pointed out the need for some sort of stoning jig to ensure that I could hold the angles to my own standards of accuracy.
The "jig" is just a 0.75 x 1.5 x 6 inch bar of aluminium with an edge hole done in a drill press which takes a piece of round drill rod. The side of the bar has a bunch of drilled and tapped holes to take various sizes of screws that hold the parts flat against the face so the stoning remains square and level to the pivots. But while extremely simple to make it DOES require a drill press to ensure the holes are all drilled square. It also requires the use of a magnifying glass and some analysis of the angles to ensure that the hook angles of the sear and hammer remain negative and self engaging to a fine degree. If used wrong it would be easy to hone the angles so that they are positive with respect to the pivot points and that the hammer and sear would want to self release. And that's the danger in doing this.
It's also quite likely that if you've shot your gun for a few hundred rounds that the gritty feeling is no longer from the sear and hammer hooks. These surfaces tend to self burnish due to the pressure and rubbing during shooting. But the rest of the linkages from trigger to sear don't self burnish themselves in the same way. For example, the trigger bow has a pair of cut "V" grooves on the hidden side that run on matching V points in the frame. These grooves tend to be cut rather crudely and it makes the trigger bow move along the riding point in a series of waves. It may be that which you're feeling too. Then there's the DA foot that runs along a slope in the frame regardless of if you're shooting in DA or SA mode. That too will telegraph any roughness back to the trigger. It's a package sort of deal. So if you go into the guts be prepared to deal with ALL of the points and don't assume that it's just the sear to hammer which it likely isn't other than on a brand new gun.
I'd have to say that a good number of folks can be found shooting their Shadows in different sorts of matches. And we do manage to lower the hammers safely onto a live round. So it's not the big bugaboo that some of you make it out to be. And frankly to those that don't take part in any sort of hand gun competitions you're missing out on a lot of fun. It doesn't need to be IPSC or IDPA. There's some others at the club level too. Dive on in, the water is fine. And if you really can't get over the idea of lowering the hammer in a safe manner than just shoot in one of the categories that starts out cocked and locked.
Am I the only one who thinks that if you can't properly lower the hammer on a handgun you probably shouldn't own that handgun?
Flame on, but I am of the opinion that every handgun owner should take the Black Badge course as well.
Flame on, but I am of the opinion that every handgun owner should take the Black Badge course as well.
No Flame.....I'm thinking about the Black Badge course but I'm not sure I'm really that interested in IPSC. I'd be happy with the safe handling/moving with a gun part and holster safety....just not sure i want to spend time learning a lot of IPSC rules.
Guess things have changed since I was an IPSC CRO back in the day. Don't ever remember anyone having to lower the hammer. Folks were making Major Factor 175 with 1911 .45 Auto mostly. A few 38 Supers at the time. I must be really old. .40 didn't exist. 10mm was just coming out.
BCRider. Thanks for that post. Maybe I'll leave the CZ alone as I don't shoot serious competitions any more, just fun stuff.
BCRider. Thanks for that post. Maybe I'll leave the CZ alone as I don't shoot serious competitions any more, just fun stuff.
MusicianShooter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- SW Ontario
3rd rule of firearms handling: Trigger finger off the trigger until sights are aligned with your target and decision to fire has been made.
I know this will spur debate, but like John Farnam and Yeager, I maintain that all NDs I've read about (have not witnessed one) happen through faulty or unnecessary gun handling.
I maintain that the chance of safety on a cz75b (like mine) spontaneously disengaging, AND the trigger depressing
IS LOWER THAN
the chance of a HUMANs fingers slipping on the hammer as they PRESS THE TRIGGER on a live round.
First situation depends on the firearms engineered safety mechanisms, second situation depends on LACK of operator error. My safe bet is on the machine, not the person. I will grant that the firing block safety is not addressed by my comment, but that's why gun handling rules are UNIVERSALLY APPLICABLE to all firearms.
That's my respectful $0.02. And to be fair if you keep the Bang Spout in a safe direction then you're fine anyways.
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And to be fair if you keep the Bang Spout in a safe direction then you're fine anyways.
Your last point was my first thought on the subject. If you are lowering the hammer on a live round in a competition (or really any range situation) the muzzle will be pointing down range while you are doing so. In the worst case scenario you put a round into the berm.
Your last point was my first thought on the subject. If you are lowering the hammer on a live round in a competition (or really any range situation) the muzzle will be pointing down range while you are doing so. In the worst case scenario you put a round into the berm.
I'd say there are more people who do lower the hammer for the first shot, even outside of IPSC/IDPA than there are that don't. But your statement on not doing it makes it sound like you think it's unsafe or somehow undesirable to do so. It's not. That you don't suggests you should simply convert your gun to a single action one with one of the many SA trigger available from a variety of retailers. I've done that for a number of people. Once you do that, and install a Pre B disco you'll have an amazingly nice SA trigger, oh and a a competition hammer too, it crisps things up nicely. You don't need to worry about the mainspring if you shoot SA only, which means you can also use harder primers like S&B with no issues.
I actually already have a CZ85 converted to single action. Not because I'm scared of dropping the hammer,it just came that way. It has a way better trigger than my Shadow.I can't see how my statement makes it seem like I think it's unsafe to drop the hammer, I just don't think I've ever seen anybody at the range,other than a competition shooter,drop the hammer on a pistol and start double action. Other than training for competition I don't see a point. We can't carry a loaded pistol in the holster unless preparing to shoot a stage so on a normal firing line most people have an empty pistol,load a mag,rack the slide and shoot single action.
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Agree 100%. I initially learned how to manually decock on a CZ75B at the range. The Black Badge course was 100% awesome, even if you don't think you'll need/use it. Why not have that skill? I'm actually thinking of going again with a different pistol. If you've got the $$ for the fun, why not take the training and learn something? I ended up with a 92A1 and I do appreciate the decocker, but only with the 16# main spring upgrade.
Depends on the range I guess. Out here we can have our guns loaded in a holster on the range regardless of it being a regular firing line or not. But I know in other provinces/ranges it can be different. As for the reason to shoot DA, why not? The old school adversion to DA triggers is pretty much gone these days. A large number of departments are switching back to traditional DA/SA guns from striker fired. The idea that DA is not as accurate has been proven wrong over and over again with some of the best shooters on the planet using them. But it's your gun, your choice.
I shot a few hundred rounds through my 85Combat, then I stoned some of the more obvious rub points inside. It doesn't make a whole lot of difference in SA mode.
I cut down the hammer hooks to minimize the camming action, and it has resulted in a better trigger, but be warned that this can/does screw up the timing of the gun such that the hammer drops into DA sometimes. There's a fix for that, but as I was converting the gun to SAO I didn't care.
The trigger is not quite up to the standards of my Shadow, so I've just ordered from Dlask the competition hammer for the 85. If I can get it as nice as the Shadow I'll sell that one, as I find the SP-01 style fugly as all get out
I cut down the hammer hooks to minimize the camming action, and it has resulted in a better trigger, but be warned that this can/does screw up the timing of the gun such that the hammer drops into DA sometimes. There's a fix for that, but as I was converting the gun to SAO I didn't care.
The trigger is not quite up to the standards of my Shadow, so I've just ordered from Dlask the competition hammer for the 85. If I can get it as nice as the Shadow I'll sell that one, as I find the SP-01 style fugly as all get out
