Pure lead powder coated boolits

Traffic Red

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Tool Blue

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Phantom Wet White High Gloss

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Phantom Glass Black

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Auggie D.
 
From another forum, hope this helps (I'm not the author) ;

I agree with the fellow who stated that the PC isn't merely replacing lube. It's totally different. You can't fire lubed bullets north of 2000+ fps without becoming concerned with leading.

The PC is a different type of jacket, like paper patching is.

I posted this in another thread, but I will paste it here as well:

For what it's worth, I PC with pure lead boolits in my .38-55 and .45-70 for hunting loads.

The .38-55 load is about 1700 fps, the .45-70 1500-1600. Sized at .379 for my .377-bored .38-55 and .460 for my .458-sized .45-70.

1.) Neither of them foul the bore in any way, with any load I tried. They in fact look cleaner inside since I began using PC!
2.) Accuracy for each, with open sights on 100-year-old rifles, is about 1.5-2" at 50 yards. Just fine for my needs.
3.) The PC remains firmly adhered to the lead. Even when shot into blocks of firewood, the recovered (hugely expanded) boolits still have their PC attached.

So from my experience, PC on pure lead boolits works great. I shot a bear this fall with pure lead PC'd .45-70 boolits - it died!
 
f55 said:
Auggi

How long did you heat the tool blue, looks like you might need bit more time.

How do they shoot?
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I bake them at 400 degrees for 15 minutes (I checked the toaster oven temp with an oven thermometer). They work fine. Pass the hammer test and recovered bullets still have the coating intact.

They are all single coat. I haven't had much success with second coats. The powder doesn't seem to adhere well to previous coats (my experience anyway).

Auggie D.
 
Auggie I have never heard of anyone trying 2nd coats using Powder Coating. In my experience there really is no need. Hi-Tek is different and does need at least two coats.

Bob
 
fingers284 said:
From another forum, hope this helps (I'm not the author) ;

I agree with the fellow who stated that the PC isn't merely replacing lube. It's totally different. You can't fire lubed bullets north of 2000+ fps without becoming concerned with leading.

The PC is a different type of jacket, like paper patching is.

I posted this in another thread, but I will paste it here as well:

For what it's worth, I PC with pure lead boolits in my .38-55 and .45-70 for hunting loads.

The .38-55 load is about 1700 fps, the .45-70 1500-1600. Sized at .379 for my .377-bored .38-55 and .460 for my .458-sized .45-70.

1.) Neither of them foul the bore in any way, with any load I tried. They in fact look cleaner inside since I began using PC!
2.) Accuracy for each, with open sights on 100-year-old rifles, is about 1.5-2" at 50 yards. Just fine for my needs.
3.) The PC remains firmly adhered to the lead. Even when shot into blocks of firewood, the recovered (hugely expanded) boolits still have their PC attached.

So from my experience, PC on pure lead boolits works great. I shot a bear this fall with pure lead PC'd .45-70 boolits - it died!
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Did your bullet expand in the bear?
 
Papaclaude said:
Did your bullet expand in the bear?
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Not my bear, that line is still part of the post I didn't author.

I have shot a # of deer with cast from pure lead (conical with a muzzle loader) to hard cast (28 BHN or so) but unfortunately have never been able to recover a slug, every one was a complete pass though...end results all the same as well...dead critter almost immediately after being hit.

I have recovered a bunch of slugs (.458 , 350-450 gr) from clay banks, wood blocks and base of a gong target. Pretty much all of these bullets are on the hard side & commercially bought and shot under 1500 fps.

The clay bank & wood block recoveries have shown some expansion if they struck a rock in the dirt but the usual deformation was usually a "bend" in the bullet shank. I think this is just as good as a mushroom effect as a bent slug will start to tumble in the body and do at leas as much if not more damage than a slight mushroom would.

The recoveries from steel gongs all showed expansion to varying degrees depending on the distance fired. A 100 yrd stike will give you a large washer-thick sized chunk of lead back while a 500 yrd strike will still mushroom a hard cast at 1300 fps but it will resemble what we are used to seeing with a good Nosler partition bullet in meat.

All-in-all I've never been disappointed with cast in game, either pure lead or harder.
 
Hi. Just a quick question,, I was rooting around emeralds website and noticed that the "tool blue" has impact resistance is this a factor in using it? I will get some to try, but want to try some freaky colours too.
Thanks
Be well.
 
Canuck44 said:
Auggie I have never heard of anyone trying 2nd coats using Powder Coating. In my experience there really is no need. Hi-Tek is different and does need at least two coats.

Bob
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I have used 2 or more coats quite effectively to "bump up" the dia of loose fitting bullets to some excellent results most notably .452 pistol bullets and .457 up to .459
 
fingers284 said:
I have used 2 or more coats quite effectively to "bump up" the dia of loose fitting bullets to some excellent results most notably .452 pistol bullets and .457 up to .459
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Good to know. I have struggled with high pressure rounds like 9MM and had great success with 38spl, a low pressure round.

Take Care

Bob
 
One thing to all you guys thinking of getting into PC - I ordered my Tool Blue powder from Emerald Coatings. It was around $10 for a pkg, but shipping was pretty close to $10, so I figured I might as well order 2 pkgs. Shipping is almost the same, so it's a lot more cost-effective, right? Well, at about 1/2 tsp. per 200 or so bullets, I figure I have enough to last me 7 or 8 generations.
 
Papaclaude said:
One thing to all you guys thinking of getting into PC - I ordered my Tool Blue powder from Emerald Coatings. It was around $10 for a pkg, but shipping was pretty close to $10, so I figured I might as well order 2 pkgs. Shipping is almost the same, so it's a lot more cost-effective, right? Well, at about 1/2 tsp. per 200 or so bullets, I figure I have enough to last me 7 or 8 generations.
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http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...en-storage?p=12328001&viewfull=1#post12328001

When i first started out, i ordered 4lb of tgic, then 4lb of tgic-free. I given away all my tgic powder and recently gave away 1lb of tgic-free powder.

Like you i still have enough to last a long time if you use 1/2 to 1 tea spoon, but if you spray on then you will go through it quicker.
 
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f55 said:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...en-storage?p=12328001&viewfull=1#post12328001

When i first started out, i ordered 4lb of tgic, then 4lb of tgic-free. I given away all my tgic powder and recently gave away 1lb of tgic-free powder.

Like you i still have enough to last a long time if you use 1/2 to 1 tea spoon, but if you spray on then you will go through it quicker.
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Why did you give away your TGIC powder? Most colours I've looked at were only available in TGIC. Therefore all my powders are TGIC.
 
I gave it away because tgic is less safe than tgic free powder. A friend is using it to coat metal parts. I have a link in the sticky regarding tgic.

Tgic is used in Canada & USA, but i didn't want to take the chance as i have kids, i think its banned in Europe
 
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I have tried the tool blue with great success, I'm very happy with the result.
I have two question
#1 is there any other color that everyone is using with same coverage and results as tool blue? I want to be caliber specific.
#2 is how long does one wait till you size after removing from toaster. 10 minutes, 10 hours, 10 days???
 
Traffic Red gave good results.
I put them through sizer after about 20 min ( time it takes me to pack everything up and clean up after casting and pc )
 
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