A Cooey model 60 in need. Please help.

The man with no name

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I have a great little Cooey model 60 I picked up off the EE. I've taken it to the range a couple times now and am feeling like a kid again shooting it. I've cleaned it thoroughly and it's in great shape overall. I only have three problems as I see it. The first two are possibly related. I'm getting light strikes randomly. Sometimes it will do the entire tube flawlessly, other times it will ftf four times in a row or just off and on. Great way not to anticipate the shot but a bit frustrating. The first range trip I brought my 10/22 and tried them again in it and they worked just fine so it wasn't the round. I even tried a second strike while it was still in the Cooey but no luck. The bolt face and firing pin look to have had some filing done to it. Not sure if that is how they come originally or someone tried to gunsmith it themselves and perhaps took a bit too much off. In either case my plan is to replace the pin and spring. Yes I am aware it's quite the process but I am prepared for the adventure and quite looking forward to it. Unfortunately gunpartscorp is out of stock for firing pins and they don't have springs listed. Once I get the bolt assembly apart I can probably find something to suffice as a replacement but I'm not sure where else to look for a new firing pin. I'd prefer not to have to pull the assembly apart more than once. I don't mind using an old one as long as it's slightly longer than the existing one. And I'll watch out for it being too long so it doesn't pierce the back of the round either. The third item this rifle needs is a new front gold dot sight. My eyes need the help and the gold dot feels like a better fit than the white dot that is also available out there. I just have to track one down, probably western gun parts?

Long story short, and thanks for being patient and reading this far, I'm looking for help locating a firing pin, and possibly a replacement spring. Plus a gold dot front sight.

Thanks!
 
I've run into a similar problem with the same rifle for a customer, here's a quick check to do: Take it to the range, and shoot as normal. If you get a misfire, re-#### the bolt and try to use the same round- use your thumb to put forward pressure on the bolt handle, and take the shot. Continue shooting, using your thumb with each shot to put forward pressure on the bolt handle. You may notice a bit of play when you do this- you could very well have a headspace problem.

Either way, a couple of fixes: Try soaking the bolt in solvent, and then use some pressurized air to blow out as much crud as you can. If there's a buildup inside the bolt, this may give the pin a little more room to come forward and set off the primer. Also make sure the rest of the action is as clean and gunk/grease free as possible.

If that doesn't help, or not enough, then the next option is replacing the bolt entirely, or somehow adding material to either the action where the bolt handle rides when closed or to the bolt handle itself. Adding or replacing metal is not for the faint of heart. For that customer's gun I located a new bolt, it was too tight to close so some careful filing brought it back to service.

Hope that helps you.
 
One thing that often occurs with bolt action rimfire rifles is the bolt wears where it comes into contact with the receiver when it's in the closed position. Usually it's the back of the bolt that is the culprit. A quick trip to the local welder to build up the worn surface usually makes it all good again.

Like mentioned try soaking it in Diesel or Varsol overnight first. You may also have a broken spring in your bolt but I doubt it because it does work intermittently.
 
Thanks for the tips and advice guys. I have cleaned and scotch brite polished the bolt previously but didn't do an overnight soak. I'll try that as well. Thanks for the thumb trick NorthernCX, I'll try that next time I'm at the range. Any idea where to source headspace gauges 'in' Canada?

I'm still interested in replacing the pin and spring though. May add a repair if there is a headspace issue though also.
 
No headspace gauges that will work for the Cooey that I'm aware of. The trouble is just that wear between the bolt handle and the receiver cutout for it becomes enough to not keep enough pressure on the cartridge when the pin comes forward. These bolts are a prick to take apart, you need to fabricate a tool to disassemble them.
 
if the wear is on the bolt itself, you could try replacing the bolt and see what happens. seen that many times on the old Cooeys. a bolt won't work in one rifle but drops in perfect into the next and you are off to the races again. As above, scrub the crud first and try it again.
 
Update: I've completely disassembled the bolt. Actually wasn't that bad except for the roll pin/spring pin removal. Required a bit of drilling. My issue now is a possible replacement for the internal bolt(the part that hits the firing pin looks like a plunger/ram of sorts). The firing pin has the ability to move forward 20 thou more than the bolt is able to move it. So I either need a new part that is that much longer or I build it up with weld and file it to my desired length. Or a new firing pin that is longer on the back end. Once the 'fix' is complete I need a new roll pin as the old one could not be salvaged. Any tips and recommendations would again be greatly appreciated!
 
Take a pic and post it of the bolt fully apart as there really aren't any such pic's that are easy to find.Would be a great reference for future bolt issues on the gun. Just my 2¢

R
 
I'm considering doing a write up once I'm done with pics. There was one set of pics I found in the forums from some time ago showing the bolt disassembled. If I can get it rebuilt and running smoothly I'll go in depth with my own journey. Still in need of parts though. Was hoping for some forum help before I go through Numrich or Western.

Anyone out there with some spare Cooey bolt parts?
 
To the OP: Have you tried pulling the trigger quickly? I've seen a Cooey misfire sporadically due to the sear dragging on the bottom of the hammer as it springs forward.
 
To the OP: Have you tried pulling the trigger quickly? I've seen a Cooey misfire sporadically due to the sear dragging on the bottom of the hammer as it springs forward.

This, I had one that would do that took me a while to figure it out, thought it was ammo. Squeezing the trigger slowly when shooting groups showed up.
 
I would not fill in that play between the intermediary plunger and the firing pin. It's likely that the pin is intended to fly forward on inertia alone and then float back. You may be trying to fix something that isn't worn or broken but instead is a proper design feature. That gap is likely there to let the plunger get up a good head of speed before it strikes the anvil of the firing pin. I've seen that same idea on at least one other rifle where the striker in the bolt hits the floating firing pin after traveling for a space.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I may include a polish of sear and related parts to help reduce 'drag'. That's a good tip. As far as the firing pin 'float' I feel like that is a flaw. I realize if the pin is too 'long' it has the potential to pierce the back of the round and cause a highly undesirable situation. If there was some kind of spring involved with the firing pin to help maintain a consistent starting position then I might feel differently. Or if the original tolerances of new parts was available I would have a reference. I highly doubt that kind of information is likely to surface here though so I think a plan is starting to form.

Clean and polish the bolt assembly. Possibly replace the firing pin and plunger if parts can be sourced. I can also compare any variance in parts. Replace the spring/roll pin. Clean and polish the sear and related parts to help reduce possible drag. If that doesn't fix it pull it apart and 'fix' plunger. I'll do a write up once it's shooting consistently.

Still looking for CGN'rs with spare Cooey 60 bolt parts.
 
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