fat tony
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I won't be held responsible for any damages or injuries that may arise from misuse of this information.
This is best used on firearms that have traditional hammers and sears arrangements. If your gun has a striker, it might not work so well.
I have come across a few firearms where the trigger pull was on the heavy side. This is not a surprise, manufacturers are very wary of liability issues in more recent eras, so getting a firearm from one of the big manufacturers with a 'lawyer trigger' is pretty common.
One firearm I had used the traditional pivoting hammer and sear arrangement. You usually hear people saying to send it to a gunsmith for a proper trigger job. Often the price of a gunsmith trigger job is approaching the price of your firearm.
If you access the trigger mechanism, you can do this. Place pressure on the hammer such that when you pull the trigger, you experience some degree of difficulty in pulling the trigger. What this does is slighly burnish the sear and hammer interface. You don't need to remove any material.
How many times you will have to repeat this motion will depend on what you think is safe. It is best to be on the safe side and reassemble the firearm & dry fire with the mechanism in the firearm.
I did this on an arm that had a trigger pull of maybe 10 lbs. Judging subjectively, it seemed that afterwards the pull had less stacking and was smoother.
This is a case where fit and try is your friend, but anyone who has spent some time working with various firearms will know this.
PS, I did not think this up, this is a procedure I learned from reading the Clyde Baker gunsmithing book, which was first published in the 1920s or 1930s iirc.
This is best used on firearms that have traditional hammers and sears arrangements. If your gun has a striker, it might not work so well.
I have come across a few firearms where the trigger pull was on the heavy side. This is not a surprise, manufacturers are very wary of liability issues in more recent eras, so getting a firearm from one of the big manufacturers with a 'lawyer trigger' is pretty common.
One firearm I had used the traditional pivoting hammer and sear arrangement. You usually hear people saying to send it to a gunsmith for a proper trigger job. Often the price of a gunsmith trigger job is approaching the price of your firearm.
If you access the trigger mechanism, you can do this. Place pressure on the hammer such that when you pull the trigger, you experience some degree of difficulty in pulling the trigger. What this does is slighly burnish the sear and hammer interface. You don't need to remove any material.
How many times you will have to repeat this motion will depend on what you think is safe. It is best to be on the safe side and reassemble the firearm & dry fire with the mechanism in the firearm.
I did this on an arm that had a trigger pull of maybe 10 lbs. Judging subjectively, it seemed that afterwards the pull had less stacking and was smoother.
This is a case where fit and try is your friend, but anyone who has spent some time working with various firearms will know this.
PS, I did not think this up, this is a procedure I learned from reading the Clyde Baker gunsmithing book, which was first published in the 1920s or 1930s iirc.
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