When to trim??

Hmmmm..... someone else can pipe in, but what you're describing sounds like the "donut" phenomenon. From what I've read the solution for this is either to ream the inside of the neck/shoulder junction with a special reaming arbor once it forms, or when your neck turn to cut into the shoulder by about a 32nd of an inch to try and prevent it.

Someone else who knows more please confirm or deny.......
 
Gunneegoogoo said:
Hmmmm..... someone else can pipe in, but what you're describing sounds like the "donut" phenomenon. From what I've read the solution for this is either to ream the inside of the neck/shoulder junction with a special reaming arbor once it forms, or when your neck turn to cut into the shoulder by about a 32nd of an inch to try and prevent it.

Someone else who knows more please confirm or deny.......
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If you have material moving from the body and shoulder down into the neck making it longer, the thicker material from the shoulder will also make the neck diameter larger. From some of your posts you have been doing some shooting and reloading.
Is the neck diameter consistant on your resized brass from the tip back to the shoulder?
 
hometownhero said:
You can set up your sizing die to set the shoulder back 1-2 thousandths and just use it like that.
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Yes, you are right about useing a full length sizing and a neck sizer is not needed. Right now I have a cartridge/rifle that I am trying to get to shoot to what I think it should. I don't plan on buying a neck sizer for it, but I was going to back off the main sizer a bit until the bolt becomes a bit difficult to close. Some how, if I can get to that fine of a point, the bolt handle should be able to close easily for part of its travel and then require a bit more to close the last little bit.
 
silver 55 said:
Yes, you are right about useing a full length sizing and a neck sizer is not needed. Right now I have a cartridge/rifle that I am trying to get to shoot to what I think it should. I don't plan on buying a neck sizer for it, but I was going to back off the main sizer a bit until the bolt becomes a bit difficult to close. Some how, if I can get to that fine of a point, the bolt handle should be able to close easily for part of its travel and then require a bit more to close the last little bit.
Click to expand...

Just get a hornady headspace gauge kit and you can measure it precisely. With mine bumped back as little as they are the bolt closes easily as brand new cases.
 
I've done lots some shooting, some reloading, and I'm just starting with turning. I haven't fired any turned cases yet, so I haven't had any donut issues.

The ones I've turned are even from case mouth to shoulder, and I turned about 1/32" into the shoulder as well. I use the 21st Century Lathe. Hope I'm doing it right, cause I've donw 250 cases in the last 2 weeks!!!

-J.
 
hometownhero said:
Just get a hornady headspace gauge kit and you can measure it precisely. With mine bumped back as little as they are the bolt closes easily as brand new cases.
Click to expand...

My new project is a 218 Bee in a 38 Cooper. Every factory spec I have checked has a rim thickness of .065 and my brass runs from .052 to .058 with most averaging around .055-.056. I was hoping to be able to start headspacing on the shoulder.
 
GGG, I'm interested in how the neck turning provides results for you. Perhaps another thread...

(I purchased a K&M unit but haven't gotten to turning any cases yet. I am new at this as well and your questions are similar to ones I have had. I'm only trying to get the most accuracy for our hunting, and not for competition...but this stuff is just too addictive for me.)

In particular I'd like to know the head stamps you are turning and the result's in terms of amount of material removed providing the proper neck thickness consistency. I have read on here that some brands are far more inconsistent in neck thickness but I am interested in your findings. (In my case it's federal and PRVI and I would like to know what I might expect.)

Out of curiosity what thickness are turning to?

Regards
RonR
 
If you're turning I hope you're trying to shoot mice at 300!!! If you find this stuff interesting you'll be Target shooting in no time. Don't make the mistake I did. Learn about the different conpetitions first, THEN buy a gun. I find FT-R most interesting, but it's only .223 or .308, so off I went to find a .308!!!

I have lapua (6.5, .308 and .338) and nosler brass (.300WSM).

I've shot for .012 for the 6.5 and .014 for the .338 and .300. I have no idea why I chose those numbers (I'm sure someone will tell me I'm dumb for that. My only custom chamber is my .308, and it has a "no turn" chamber, so all I'll do on the .308 brass is for consistency.

I'm able to get 98% of the brass +\- .001, and I discarded that which I could not. Only about 6 pieces out of 250.

I'll let you know what my 6.5 does with its newly turned brass. I primed 100 of them last night - and I will start a new thread, good idea.

The runout on my 6.5 ammo before turning was often within .001 when seated with my Redding seater. I hope that stays the same or improves!!

Keep asking q's. I've recently gained a lot of knowledge from yodave, Jerry, Yomamma, etc. If be happy to pass it along.
 
Gunneegoogoo said:
The first in my series of tonight's 2 rookie questions:

As of right now all of my brass is under SAAMI specs for length.

Do I need to trim to make everything exactly the same, or wait until they start to creep past the specs?

Thx.

-J.
Click to expand...
if you are crimping then each case must be identical or the crimp tension will have a negative affect on pressure.
 
Gunneegoogoo said:
If you're turning I hope you're trying to shoot mice at 300!!! If you find this stuff interesting you'll be Target shooting in no time. Don't make the mistake I did. Learn about the different conpetitions first, THEN buy a gun. I find FT-R most interesting, but it's only .223 or .308, so off I went to find a .308!!!

I have lapua (6.5, .308 and .338) and nosler brass (.300WSM).

I've shot for .012 for the 6.5 and .014 for the .338 and .300. I have no idea why I chose those numbers (I'm sure someone will tell me I'm dumb for that. My only custom chamber is my .308, and it has a "no turn" chamber, so all I'll do on the .308 brass is for consistency.

I'm able to get 98% of the brass +\- .001, and I discarded that which I could not. Only about 6 pieces out of 250.

I'll let you know what my 6.5 does with its newly turned brass. I primed 100 of them last night - and I will start a new thread, good idea.

The runout on my 6.5 ammo before turning was often within .001 when seated with my Redding seater. I hope that stays the same or improves!!

Keep asking q's. I've recently gained a lot of knowledge from yodave, Jerry, Yomamma, etc. If be happy to pass it along.
Click to expand...

Shooting mice at 300 nooo. But eyebrows of gophers at 150 is more of what I am trying to achieve. :) Competition shooting is in the future sometime...I hope.

(You are using the good brass. I was hoping to get an idea of how consistent Lapua vs. Federal in terms of how much material/non consistent neck thickness. Don't mean to hijack the thread either. Great information. I might have to PM you regarding neck thickness choices for the calibres you are shooting.)

Jerry has been awesome for answering questions and between him and yodave and Yomamma, their posts are things I pay close attention to. There are others as well that share good information and express patience.

Interested in knowing the results from the turned 6.5 brass.

Regards
Ron
 
You dont need to trim if under max specs.
You could do it if you want to have brass that has near the same neck tension for more accuracy for target shooting.
 
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