Good quality 9mm cleaning kit?

Really just any cleaning kit with a 9mm brush and jag will do. Add in a small but stiff tooth brush. You can spend top dollar on all things gold but the stick with a patch works doesn't it?
 
If you want to do this once and once only my suggestions would be;

  • Handguns have such a short barrel that I use a three piece rod with the jag and brushes on each piece instead of joined. That speeds things up by not having to swap the ends for each step. The short barrels have so little twist that it's not an issue. I just let the rod rotate in my grip to follow the rifling.
  • For guns you must clean from the muzzle ALWAYS use a crown protector. These can be plastic or brass but after using a few options my favorite is a stainless rod with a brass cone protector. The smoother operation of this combination makes it easier to use
  • For brushes I prefer a nylon bristle brush for normal cleaning and only using a bronze bristle brush for seriously stubborn deposits such as any leading I may find.
  • A proper fitted cylindrical jag does a far better job of patching the bore than the eye loop style. A set of Tipton jags has proven to fit all my various size bores very neatly.

I prefer to sneak up on cleaning. So I start with just patches. If that's not enough to make it really clean I run the nylon brush with some solvent on it for a few passes then patch again. If it's a gun that shoots cast and it's still crusty in the edges of the rifling I run the bronze patch a few passes then patch. Usually I don't need to though.
 
BCRider said:
If you want to do this once and once only my suggestions would be;

  • Handguns have such a short barrel that I use a three piece rod with the jag and brushes on each piece instead of joined. That speeds things up by not having to swap the ends for each step. The short barrels have so little twist that it's not an issue. I just let the rod rotate in my grip to follow the rifling.
  • For guns you must clean from the muzzle ALWAYS use a crown protector. These can be plastic or brass but after using a few options my favorite is a stainless rod with a brass cone protector. The smoother operation of this combination makes it easier to use
  • For brushes I prefer a nylon bristle brush for normal cleaning and only using a bronze bristle brush for seriously stubborn deposits such as any leading I may find.
  • A proper fitted cylindrical jag does a far better job of patching the bore than the eye loop style. A set of Tipton jags has proven to fit all my various size bores very neatly.

I prefer to sneak up on cleaning. So I start with just patches. If that's not enough to make it really clean I run the nylon brush with some solvent on it for a few passes then patch again. If it's a gun that shoots cast and it's still crusty in the edges of the rifling I run the bronze patch a few passes then patch. Usually I don't need to though.
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for the in depth response!!! Truly appreciate you taking the time!

I will use these techniques for sure... I've been shooting for many years now... but haven't really been that festidious with the hand gun bores :)
 
ChromeArty said:
Thank you so much for the in depth response!!! Truly appreciate you taking the time!

I will use these techniques for sure... I've been shooting for many years now... but haven't really been that festidious with the hand gun bores :)
Click to expand...

To be fair I should add that I don't go nutz with cleaning my handguns. Semi autos that shoot jacketed or plated get cleaned at probably around 600 to 700 rounds when the insides from the residual blowback get too sooty to run smoothly. My cowboy revolvers get cleaned at probably half that or even more often because they are shooting a steady diet of cast lead which REALLY fouls up the frame and cylinder to where my hands get dirty just holding them. Those ones sort of shame me into cleaning earlier than the barrels or the smoothness of the actions really require :d

For all I mentioned leading up I've only had it happen a few times. And always on fairly new guns. Once the barrels burnish in from some use they don't see to lead up at all from the loads I'm shooting in the guns.

When I shoot black powder the guns DO get cleaned that day or at worst the next. But that's a whole other topic since the fouling from BP tends to pull moisture out of the air that mixes with the salts in the fouling and that spells R_U_S_T if not cleaned away early enough.

The only other frequently cleaned guns I have are the rimfire semi pistols and rifles. The direct blowback ensures there will be LOTS of fouling inside the actions. But a while back I switched to trying EEZOX on my rimfire semis. So far the verdict seems to be that this dry film lube keeps the guns running well and looking good without soaking up the fouling and turning into a black gooey mess. I'm pretty sure that my 10/22 Ruger has seen at least 1000 rounds through it and it's not all that dirty inside. And the bolt is still cycling quite well although it's recently started feeling a touch sticky. I NEVER would have gotten this far if I were oiling it. The pistols done with EEZOX have not been shot enough to tell for sure yet.
 
i like to use the otis kit for all calibres. ive tried the rod/jag method as well as boresnake and did not like either of those.
 
The 13 piece Tipton set of jags I got is listed at Midway USA at $15. And that supports my memory of buying it for something around $25 from a local gun shop. So not really out there cost wise.

Their cleaning rods are pretty princely. Good stuff but at a cost. But I find that for handgun length barrels a swiveling handle is sort of overkill.
 
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