CZ75 high velocity ejection

gowic

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I'm hoping someone out there has some helpful advice for me. I have a cz75b omega, which I really enjoy shooting, but every time it ejects brass it flys out at high speed, goes clear across the shooting area and usually pelts some poor soul who is to the right of me. No joke it probably flys anywhere between 12 and 18 feet! I find this pretty annoying and embarrassing to the point where I don't like to shoot it unless I'm by myself. Has anyone else had this problem with their CZ? which parts can I swap out to make my brass stay in a reasonable radius?
 
The hotter the ammo the further the empties fly. Some of that old foreign Military Berdan primed stuff is very hot made for full autos. Reloads don't go far if you don't get carried away with the powder.
 
The hotter the ammo the further the empties fly. Some of that old foreign Military Berdan primed stuff is very hot made for full autos. Reloads don't go far if you don't get carried away with the powder.
I've fired a couple thousand rounds of various types of ammo with the same result.

Try and shoot in the far right lane.
that would be great expect the range i shoot at has pistols and rifles on the same range and the pistols are to the left. I usually end up hitting someone trying to sight in their rifle :S
 
Install heavier recoil spring - problem solved. try different weights. I think the brass should fall 5-10 feet from you with the correct spring. Someone will correct me if i am off on the numbers.
With the wrong spring for the ammo you could either be battering your frame/slide if the spring is too light or too old and week or you may have feeding issues if the spring is too heavy
 
I'm hoping someone out there has some helpful advice for me. I have a cz75b omega, which I really enjoy shooting, but every time it ejects brass it flys out at high speed, goes clear across the shooting area and usually pelts some poor soul who is to the right of me. No joke it probably flys anywhere between 12 and 18 feet! I find this pretty annoying and embarrassing to the point where I don't like to shoot it unless I'm by myself. Has anyone else had this problem with their CZ? which parts can I swap out to make my brass stay in a reasonable radius?

Get something like this square minnow net. Heavy sinkers on the bottom and put a few hooks up on the side of the lane if they aren't there to begin with. Works great, no peppering other shooters with brass, and no chasing yours if you reload.

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Heavier recoil spring as suggested. Or shoot lower power ammo.

Best part is that the heavier recoil spring will also reduce the battering the slide is doing to the slide lock pin. As it sits now I suspect you're well on the way to breaking your first slide lock. This being a pretty well known thing on CZ's.
 
Springs used in guns are rated at the force they have when at their most compressed point as used in the gun. If you have a fish scale and can figure out how to hook it to the slide then you can sort of measure the force needed to get the slide back. It won't be perfect due to slide friction but it'll be a start and might just get you into the ball park. The only other way would be to somehow figure out how long the spring is right at the point of slide lock and use a jig to compress it to that length against a scale to check the force. But measuring that dimension isn't all that easy. You'd need to take note of the slide position then strip the gun and lay the slide next to the frame with it in the same position and with the guide rod in position and measure the distance as best you can to within something less than 1 mm of uncertainty.

If you do such a measurement you could then use the guide rod and a piece of tubing or perhaps the slide itself to push against the spring with the end of the rod resting against a scale and with a ruler sitting alongside. Push the spring down to match the length and read the scale. This is all rather crude but it might give you a pretty good idea. A somewhat more fancy rig would actually be better. Like a longer piece of wood with a hole in it and hinged to something secure on the other side so you can apply pressure with the lever while watching the ruler to match the compressed length. Then without moving read the scale.

On a simpler note I've found that some are painted to colour code them. But you need to know which company's spring you have and what their colour code is.
 
Is there any way to tell how heaven/light my current spring is?

I use this to measure my recoil springs. It's calibrated to measure 1911 recoil springs (ie the mark you compress the spring down to), so the measurement for springs from other makes/models is just a reference for myself to sort my recoil springs. Then I just move up/down in springs until I get an ejection pattern that is a nice consistent 3'-6'. Less than that, you may start encountering FTE & feed problems, or your slide may not go back far enough to lock back on an empty mag. More than that and your slide & stop pin are starting to get a battering.

View attachment 51462
 
Vanman, any chance of another picture showing it in use? Or links to a video of it being used?

I feel a DIY project that adapts a few bucks worth of hardware store goodies and a fishing scale coming on..... :D
 
Vanman, any chance of another picture showing it in use? Or links to a video of it being used?

I feel a DIY project that adapts a few bucks worth of hardware store goodies and a fishing scale coming on..... :D

Here you go BCRider,

View attachment 51545

The standard mark you pull to compress the spring down to is for 1911 recoil springs. I added the mark in silver to measure my Grand Power recoil springs.
View attachment 51546

Using the small bolt to measure a Grand Power recoil spring
View attachment 51547

Using the large bolt to measure a 1911 spring
View attachment 51548

Here's some dimensions for you :)
View attachment 51549

A nice feature is the inside of the tube is molded to prevent the hex nut of the small & large bolts from turning freely as you spin on the nut at the other end.
Really only handy for the small bolt, but if you could just use a longer piece of ready rod instead.
View attachment 51550
 
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