Para 1911 slide locked and dud stuck in chamber

KidGlock

KidGlock

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Ive also posted a video for further clarification.

I was cycling a dud round through the 1911. it has no primer or gunpowder so basically a snap cap of sorts. but last night i loaded the dud into the mag, slapped in the mag and racked the slide. pulled the trigger to drop the hammer and thats when everything just locked up. i cant move the slide more than 1/8 of an inch so i cant even remove the slide. watch the video for more details.

any help on this would be awesome. I dont have the money to haul it off to a gunsmith. ive only had this 1911 for a week now.

 
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Could be the round was too long or not sized correctly or you have a tight chamber and either the case is stuck in the bore or the bullet jammed into the rifling. Don't know why the firing pin is locked all the way 'cause if there's no primer, the firing pin doesn't extend that long enough to jam into the flash hole.

If you're right handed, grab the slide tightly with your left hand using an overhand grip (thumb towards you). Hold it in front and away from you like you're pointing the muzzle downrange. With your right hand, slam it into the backstrap of the gun like you're going to grip it while slamming your left hand towards your body. You might have to do it a couple times but it should pop that dummy round out.
 
Have you tried this same dud round in another .45 ACP firearm with no issues?
Trinimon has the right idea. I would make it a bit easier by cocking the hammer and also removing the barrel bushing and recoil spring, to lighten the pressure.
At this point, you have no access to the internals so brute force is the only way here.
Have you actually loaded and shot this gun before? Or was the dud the first round going through the gun?
 
Only reason I didn't recommend removing the recoil spring and bushing is to prevent any accidental peening when the slide does break free. :p
 
In the video, it seems that the firing pin is depressed in and is stuck. Will sticking a wooden dowel or brass rod down the barrel help push it back? I am not sure if this is an idea worth exploring.
 
well guys i took it apart from the back end. got up to the sear spring and beaver tail and said f#uck it. put it back together, and hammered the blunt end of an axe on the handle whilst holding the slide. worked perfectly. everything is A-OK. firing pin is working proper again and im impressed with the durability of this 1911. I wasnt gentle.
 
Still alive said:
:cheers: Enjoy your new 1911. Glad everything worked out well for you.

You do know about the "Idiot scratch", right?
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oh hell ya, first thing i do when buying a new gun is look up reviews and cleaning on it. the idiot scratch was a top hit on youtube. i dont actually replace the slide lock that way anyways. i just line it up and slide it in. the way it should be :)
 
KidGlock said:
well guys i took it apart from the back end. got up to the sear spring and beaver tail and said f#uck it. put it back together, and hammered the blunt end of an axe on the handle whilst holding the slide. worked perfectly. everything is A-OK. firing pin is working proper again and im impressed with the durability of this 1911. I wasnt gentle.
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lol, that's work too. Well if you can't fix it with love, beat it into submission. :)
 
so the fireing pin went far enough to jam into the primmer pockethole would be my guess. glad ya got it apart without breaking it so cut a piece of rubber of and old shoe sole or tire or whatever with a hole punch the right size and stick it in the primer pocket hole , or buy a proper snap cap
 
That is the reason you use snap caps and not reloaded rounds for dry firing. If you use dummy rounds, you need used primers on them.

The reason for what happened to you is not because of the firing pin being lodged in the dummy rounds flash hole. That was a secondary problem, what happened there was when you dry fired the pistol the firing pin got stuck in the hole because of the hammer drop. the firing pin is tapered, and it just went in a bit too far and got stuck in the flash hole.

The main problem if the round (reload) was sized properly it would not have caused the slide "freeze". Any seasoned reloaded has had this problem once or twice. That's what chamber checkers and the "plunk" test is done to avoid this problem. When the barrel is removed, I bet the round doesn't "plunk" into the barrel right?

If it ever happens again, this is the easy way to resolve the problem.

1 - Get a small slotted screwdriver that has no sharp edges
2 - While pulling the slide back, you will have a little play before the barrel drops out of the slide lugs. a small gap will appear between the barrel cover and the breech face.
3 - Put the screwdriver in the gap, and give it a twist, this should cause the barrel to drop slightly and release the barrel and the slide should pull back now.
4 - When the round hits the ejector it would pull the round forward, and pull the firing pin out of the flash hole.

Always use dummy rounds with a primer or snapcap

Hope this helps
 
madcow said:
That is the reason you use snap caps and not reloaded rounds for dry firing. If you use dummy rounds, you need used primers on them.

The reason for what happened to you is not because of the firing pin being lodged in the dummy rounds flash hole. That was a secondary problem, what happened there was when you dry fired the pistol the firing pin got stuck in the hole because of the hammer drop. the firing pin is tapered, and it just went in a bit too far and got stuck in the flash hole.

The main problem if the round (reload) was sized properly it would not have caused the slide "freeze". Any seasoned reloaded has had this problem once or twice. That's what chamber checkers and the "plunk" test is done to avoid this problem. When the barrel is removed, I bet the round doesn't "plunk" into the barrel right?

If it ever happens again, this is the easy way to resolve the problem.

1 - Get a small slotted screwdriver that has no sharp edges
2 - While pulling the slide back, you will have a little play before the barrel drops out of the slide lugs. a small gap will appear between the barrel cover and the breech face.
3 - Put the screwdriver in the gap, and give it a twist, this should cause the barrel to drop slightly and release the barrel and the slide should pull back now.
4 - When the round hits the ejector it would pull the round forward, and pull the firing pin out of the flash hole.

Always use dummy rounds with a primer or snapcap

Hope this helps
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i shall keep this in mind
 
Not a big fan of dry firing centre fire firearms without a snap cap and generally not at all. Air makes a terrible stop for a firing pin, doing it excessively the pin will get peened. As Madcow said two separate problems, pin jammed in breech face, and a round that was probably maxed out in length and jammed the slide. Problem? In this case a locked up pistol.
 
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