Help me decide between two scopes & parallax

ShaneN.

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I've narrowed my decision on a scope for my target 10/22 to either the Nikon prostaff rimfire II OR the Nikon prostaff EFR target. (links below)

I was leaning towardsthe rimfire 2 (fixed 50 yard parallax) because I like the BDC 150 reticle which gives you clear dots for 75, 100, etc yards BUT I'm a little worried about shooting at something closer than 50 yards. I then came across the target EFR which has AO but without the BDC 150 reticle. It's too bad there isn't one that combines both. So I guess what I'm wondering is how bad will a fixed 50 yard parallax be when shooting at 25 yards (for example). My decision has kind of come down to BDC150 vs AO.



http://www.nikonsportoptics.com/en/nikon-products/product/null/prostaff-rimfire-ii-3-9x40-bdc-150.html

http://www.nikonsportoptics.com/en/nikon-products/riflescopes/prostaff-target-efr.html
 
With a variable and an AO, even if your range is at 25 yards, the power can be turned down to get a clear sight picture and parallax should not be a concern.
With my two gopher guns ( target guns until the season starts) one wears a 4.5 - 14 and the other a 2.5 - 16. Set at 50 yards, a grouse's head looks just fine at under 25 on lower powers.
 
With a variable and an AO, even if your range is at 25 yards, the power can be turned down to get a clear sight picture and parallax should not be a concern.

^this has been my experience. I tend to put AO scopes on all my rimfires though. Great option for targets as various ranges. For hunting only, it's no fun to be messing with AO...so..I'd just adjust the magnification down to about 4X.
 
Take the AO. When Hunting, you look around and see what average range you will be shooting. Then adjust your AO and don't touch it unless a major range diff. It gives you the flexibility to hunt, plink and do some target shooting at all reasonable rimfire ranges. You will get use to the multi reticule and will be able to figure out the hold over.
 
I have 3 of the target EFR's, excellent scope IMO, love the reticle, i have never shot with a nikon bdc reticle but from looking thru them I'm not a fan of the circles, if they were fine hash marks of some sort it would prob peek my interest. Most of my shots are 100yds or less at gophers and dont find it that hard to figure out how much hold over is required. Just my 2cents.

I've narrowed my decision on a scope for my target 10/22 to either the Nikon prostaff rimfire II OR the Nikon prostaff EFR target. (links below)

I was leaning towardsthe rimfire 2 (fixed 50 yard parallax) because I like the BDC 150 reticle which gives you clear dots for 75, 100, etc yards BUT I'm a little worried about shooting at something closer than 50 yards. I then came across the target EFR which has AO but without the BDC 150 reticle. It's too bad there isn't one that combines both. So I guess what I'm wondering is how bad will a fixed 50 yard parallax be when shooting at 25 yards (for example). My decision has kind of come down to BDC150 vs AO.



http://www.nikonsportoptics.com/en/.../null/prostaff-rimfire-ii-3-9x40-bdc-150.html

http://www.nikonsportoptics.com/en/nikon-products/riflescopes/prostaff-target-efr.html
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I should have mentioned it's just for plinking, and mostly in the bush. I'd assume I would just be shooting at random stuff between 15-100 yards depending on where I am.

With a variable and an AO, even if your range is at 25 yards, the power can be turned down to get a clear sight picture and parallax should not be a concern.
With my two gopher guns ( target guns until the season starts) one wears a 4.5 - 14 and the other a 2.5 - 16. Set at 50 yards, a grouse's head looks just fine at under 25 on lower powers.
^this has been my experience. I tend to put AO scopes on all my rimfires though. Great option for targets as various ranges. For hunting only, it's no fun to be messing with AO...so..I'd just adjust the magnification down to about 4X.

So what you guys are saying as if it's set at 50 yards parallex and you lower it down to 4x, there won't be much problem at under 50 yards?


Take the AO. When Hunting, you look around and see what average range you will be shooting. Then adjust your AO and don't touch it unless a major range diff. It gives you the flexibility to hunt, plink and do some target shooting at all reasonable rimfire ranges. You will get use to the multi reticule and will be able to figure out the hold over.

The scope with AO is just a plain crosshair, no dashes or circles. I've never used one WITH but for some reason I feel like that BDC150 would be good for a round that is going to loose velocity quick. I guess if you're sighted in at 50 yards and you don't often shoot out past 100, you just aim a little bit higher? It's kind of nice that the BDC150 actually has marks for those further ranges though. Not to mention you can download an app with that scope that you enter in the grain, bullet type, etc and it will tell you where to place the sight and it's apparently quite accurate. I'm not sure I'd go as far as using the app though.
 
Here's the two:

BDC150

851243761b733ca9aa16a0aaf31104c6_0.jpg


target

NK6734BR.jpg
 
I dont have a nikon but have an older banner 4-12 and i like the a/o and have learned to hold over and under depending on distance. What i like about the a/o is maximum magnification at under 20 yrds. The other folks have said lots. You may want to look at hawke optics too. A lot of the FT airgun shooters use them.
 
If you choose scope without A/O and your buddy has scope with A/O the chance are slim to none that you will ever out group him at 50 & 100 y target shooting!!!
 
That BDC scope needs a couple of smiley faces thrown in, looked at one once, way too busy. All my scopes have ao, hunting at lower powers, no fiddling with adjustments. For target work, dial in as required. Watch the min focus range, winter target shooting is usually pretty short range. Learn to hold over, don't expect the scope to shoot for you.
 
It's not a plain crosshair in the EFR, it's some kind of dual X and you can figure out hold over with it. But hey, if you like the BDC, go for it. For my part, i hate Nikon's BDC. Question of taste. And yes, they should offer the EFR with some kind of hold over reticule. One scope that i like very much for a rimfire is the Sightron 4-12X40 AO HHR.
Good luck in your search.
 
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Leaning towards the target. It sounds like it's handy to have. Anyone have any idea how tall of rings I might need with that on a 10/22 target?
 
Not sure if anyone has mentioned this but the BDC150 has 0.5 MOA adjustments. Not sure if the AO version is the same. Make sure that you ask before you make the purchase...0.5 MOA is fine for plinking or hunting but not desirable for target shooting.
I have the original Prostaff BDC150 and it is a great scope for the money but I wish the scope had 0.25 MOA.
K
 
Just my opinion but a friend has one with the BDC and I really don't like the circles. Far too coarse for any fine shooting. The Target model (EFR) would be my pic by far. I have a Leopold 12X that has a "Leopold Dot" with a fine cross hair that looks very similar to the one you show. I've used that for shooting out to 500M quite nicely. Best of luck with your choice.
 
I have the Target EFR, it's .05 moa clicks iirc. Great little rimfire scope, love the AO and the glass is nice and clear. It sees mostly target use but I plan on hunting small game with it this year, I've got it sighted in at 50yrd and it's on target out to 100 which is my max at the range I'm a member at.
 
I've got it sighted in at 50yrd and it's on target out to 100 which is my max at the range I'm a member at.

Interesting, that's good to hear. It's just going to be for plinking and a bit of target shooting. I can't imagine shooting it out past 100 yards much anyways.

I'm pretty set on the EFR now. It's a few more bucks but I also paid a few extra for the target version of the 10/22 knowing it's going to probably get used the most and stay with me forever.

As far as rings, I see a lot of people buring the burris zee rings. It seems like there is a few different versions though, some appear to be all steel and some don't. Are these decent for the money?
 
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