Annealing with templac, help

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Keithjohn

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Hi , I have 650 degree templac , as per instructions I'm heating UNTILL it turns liquid . But to my eyes it doesn't turn liquid, it turns hard . I've went past that by 6 seconds and don't see a diff. I think it matters how high I turn the flame to do it by time and the templac indicator isn't helping me . Or maybe it is ? The brass is showing just a hint of color change . I'm thinking it should turn quite q bit as per my g11 ammo has obvious two tone at the shoulder .
Any advice ?
 
Thanks for the link purple shoulder , good video , watched another that showed clean brass not showing much color change ,maybe I am doing ok . I'll have to try them and see if I can tell any difference I guess
 
Rather than the stuff you paint on prior to,try the crayon type things you touch on after heating.
Welders use them.
 
I m applying it on the outside of the neck , don't like the mess on the outside , I use my bench grinder w/brass brush to clean . Must be a ##### on the inside ? Does it need to be done on the inside ?
I'm assuming that if I over anneal it will show when resizing . Any comments on that ?
 
Keithjohn said:
I m applying it on the outside of the neck , don't like the mess on the outside , I use my bench grinder w/brass brush to clean . Must be a ##### on the inside ? Does it need to be done on the inside ?
I'm assuming that if I over anneal it will show when resizing . Any comments on that ?
Click to expand...

no clue, I heat until the line is just below the shoulder and it works all the time.... no tempilaq.
case in a deep wall socket in a drill over flame... easy, fast.
tempilaq will show you that your case is annealed once the line is below the shoulder.... now you know.
 
Last edited:
Keithjohn said:
I m applying it on the outside of the neck , don't like the mess on the outside , I use my bench grinder w/brass brush to clean . Must be a ##### on the inside ? Does it need to be done on the inside ?
I'm assuming that if I over anneal it will show when resizing . Any comments on that ?
Click to expand...

The danger is that the annealing will go too far down the case. I always pick up "extra" cases at the gun club to use for setting up my machine.
 
After annealing, you should be tumbling the brass again to remove the oxides. This should remove all the residue from the Tempilaq.

I put the Tempilaq on the inside of the neck so that it indicates the brass temperature and isn't affected by the flame temperature.

Over annealing the case necks will be apparent when bullet seating and the neck collapses.
 
yomomma said:
The danger is that the annealing will go too far down the case. I always pick up "extra" cases at the gun club to use for setting up my machine.
Click to expand...

Problem with using the range scrap brass is the thickness of the brass will quite likely be different and therefore will heat up at a different rate. I pull one from the batch and start with the timing set on the fast side. If timing needs to be adjusted for longer dwell time, I drop the case in water to cool it, blow out with canned air and reapply the Tempilaq. I will repeat these steps until the Tempilaq looses its colour just as it passes out of the flame. With this technique, I know that the whole batch is the same and received the same treatment.
 
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