M1 Garand barrel vise
- Thread starter elvis3006
- Start date
Where is the vise clamping on the barrel? If right over the chamber, I would think they would be about the same. Have to take a look.
My vise uses split 1 1/2" diameter bushings. Whenever I need bushings I don't have, I just make another out of 6061 round stock. Cut to length, bore, split. I use powdered resin on the bushings. Powdered sugar works as well. If any aluminum is left on the barrel, bore cleaner removes it.
I have used two different sizes of bushing halves when a barrel is not cylindrical.
My vise uses split 1 1/2" diameter bushings. Whenever I need bushings I don't have, I just make another out of 6061 round stock. Cut to length, bore, split. I use powdered resin on the bushings. Powdered sugar works as well. If any aluminum is left on the barrel, bore cleaner removes it.
I have used two different sizes of bushing halves when a barrel is not cylindrical.
If you re-check the Brownells website they have a PDF which describes the use of their barrel vise plus inserts. It says that for a Garand and M14 you need a vise with a #12 and #13 bushing set which consists of 3 bushing halves or inserts. It says to use one large and 1 single bushing insert for the Garand barrel.
I'm surmising that the top bushing is smaller so as to engage the 2 ledges on the sides of the Garand barrel so as to prevent rotational movement when the vise is tightened on the barrel. If this is the case then either steel or aluminum inserts are fine. Some prefer aluminum inserts in a barrel vise if you are clamping a round barrel. Either way the key thing is to have the barrel completely degreased so that the barrel won't slip in the vise inserts.
I've not used the Brownells vise as I use individual specific vises for the M1 Garand, M1903 Springfield and M1 Carbine. I do use their wrench with interchangeable heads for the M1903 and M1 Carbine and it works well. Sometimes you need to slip a steel pipe extension over the wrench handle to get some extra torque. I've found that a good way to go with securing a barrel vise is to use a 12 ton shop press. You can get them from Princess Auto, but you need to add some angle iron cross braces so that they will stand the sideways torque.
$165 is a big investment in a vise plus more again for a receiver wrench. If you are only doing one barrel install you might be further ahead to have someone do the job for you.
I'm surmising that the top bushing is smaller so as to engage the 2 ledges on the sides of the Garand barrel so as to prevent rotational movement when the vise is tightened on the barrel. If this is the case then either steel or aluminum inserts are fine. Some prefer aluminum inserts in a barrel vise if you are clamping a round barrel. Either way the key thing is to have the barrel completely degreased so that the barrel won't slip in the vise inserts.
I've not used the Brownells vise as I use individual specific vises for the M1 Garand, M1903 Springfield and M1 Carbine. I do use their wrench with interchangeable heads for the M1903 and M1 Carbine and it works well. Sometimes you need to slip a steel pipe extension over the wrench handle to get some extra torque. I've found that a good way to go with securing a barrel vise is to use a 12 ton shop press. You can get them from Princess Auto, but you need to add some angle iron cross braces so that they will stand the sideways torque.
$165 is a big investment in a vise plus more again for a receiver wrench. If you are only doing one barrel install you might be further ahead to have someone do the job for you.
I made my receiver wrench like this one here
http://m14forum.com/gunsmithing/140932-m14-m1-garand-receiver-wrench-interest.html
and my barrel vise like this one
http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=79&t=113655
http://m14forum.com/gunsmithing/140932-m14-m1-garand-receiver-wrench-interest.html
and my barrel vise like this one
http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=79&t=113655
The nice thing about the Brownells wrench is that you can swap heads to do different receivers. I've used the CMP wrench for several dozen Garand barrel installs/removals and it is a real champ. The torque load on the receiver is taken at the top of the front ring and the bottom so in the worst case an 18 inch crescent wrench would work with a small steel plate on the top jaw to spread the load. There would be a considerable risk of sideways slippage so a person would need to be very careful, especially if an extension bar was required on the wrench handle. It's always best to use the right tool for the job.
I've used a 24in Crescent without any problems at all for 2 Garand.
