Cold blue over bead blast looks kind of like phosphate. It doesn't look bad. I had a spot on mine that was rusted pretty badly on the underside fo the barrel, required draw filing to remove. Outers cold blue covered it right up and even turned slightly green coloured like the rest of the finish.
Israeli K98 restoration
- Thread starter Keir973
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i get where everyone is coming from yes, and i tested those two places because thats where i was advised to check, and I do have friend who does this for a living and provided me the serviceand any work or restorations I have ever done I am always the first to fire, ensuring it works correctly.
Most house/shed/garage fires don't get hot enough to burn off the stocks. That means under 450F. If most of the wood was still there or even just around the receiver you should be good to go. By testing the Brinnel hardness and cross checking with an X ray or using a magnetic crack test it only confirms all is well. It takes a lot of heat for only an instant of time to change the molecules enough to make the receiver/bolt unsafe. It all depends on the fire.
As for most Israeli Mausers being beat to hell, the Israelis bought a lot of new and used rifles and FTRed many thousands themselves. I like them both. I have an Israeli marked Czech Rampant Lion with the Star of David on the right side of the receiver that is still chambered in 7.92x57. It still has grease in the barrel. Somehow it escaped being converted to 7.62, maybe because of its condition??
OP, you will have to scribe 7.62 into the top of the butt to make it more authentic. Those markings were so big for a reason.
Looks good so far to me.
A branding knife would not work. It would not look right. A Dremel will work if you have complete control. Better yet go to one of your local fabrication shops with a pantograph machine. They will have everything on hand to do the job in a professional manner. If you insist on doing the job by hand, find a U shaped carving chisel and do some practice passes on a scrap pies of wood. Make sure you have it right before you start.
You can make a stamp out of a coat hanger with a couple pairs of needle nose pliers, and then you can burn them in properly after heating with a torch.
Make sure to do it on the toe, not the heel.
Personally, I would just leave it.
Make sure to do it on the toe, not the heel.
Personally, I would just leave it.
You might never see that range report. the seller sold the rifle or one very much like it as nothing was mentioned about being in a fire in the listing. I nearly bought it, in fact agreed to , but he sold it to another after they paid first.
I'm glad it never happened, I'd rather no rifle than one this fellow had owned.
I'm glad it never happened, I'd rather no rifle than one this fellow had owned.
The Israeli guns are usually parkerizing. I recommend Vulcan gun refinishing. Great park jobs.
Hmm... sounds sketchy.
The guys feedback appears to have a certain pattern to it doesn't it?Good to know for future reference.
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Odd because all the ones I've seen. Also the one I owned were blued.
Like so many things in milsurp, It depends. Israel was refurbishing these rifles right up until they dropped it in favour of semi-automatics. Early on, they blued the guns. The ones that were refurbished closer to when they dropped the Mauser from inventory got brand new beechwood stocks and a fresh coat of parkerizing. Some of those come to Canada in unissued condition and looked like new.
There were two major imports of these in the 1980's. One import was the as-new rifles I referred to, the other came from Sauth America (Bolivia, I think?) as the Israelis sold many of these to South America before they started selling their nicer war reserve rifles direct to surplus dealers.
Well, it's good to know that the OP took some advice on the safety of firing a gun that's been through a fire. Fire that doesn't get hot enough to burn wood can still draw the temper on steel.
If true, it's terrible to know that it was sold without disclosure after a replacement stock was put on.
As far as I'm concerned, that receiver was useless as is except maybe for a 22 build. A gun that goes through a fire is not good. If it was mine, not even a good "test" would make me happy. If there was ANY doubt-- A N Y doubt, the receiver should have been re heat treated, hardness tested, mpi/fpi, and re proofed. If you're not willing to do that, and spend the money to do that, then it needs to either be sold to someone with full disclosure who fully intends to do this, or needs to be scrapped. Bottom line. Someone could die.
Am I still "trolling your posts" ???
If true, it's terrible to know that it was sold without disclosure after a replacement stock was put on.
As far as I'm concerned, that receiver was useless as is except maybe for a 22 build. A gun that goes through a fire is not good. If it was mine, not even a good "test" would make me happy. If there was ANY doubt-- A N Y doubt, the receiver should have been re heat treated, hardness tested, mpi/fpi, and re proofed. If you're not willing to do that, and spend the money to do that, then it needs to either be sold to someone with full disclosure who fully intends to do this, or needs to be scrapped. Bottom line. Someone could die.
Am I still "trolling your posts" ???
A single 10% overcharge round might do nothing more than bend or warp locking luck a little bit or make a hairline fracture worse, but not cause a catastrophic failure. The integrity of the metal should probably be verified first if we're being extra safe. THEN you can trust a proof load.
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