TAVOR 45 deg. Rail issue?

onetwentyish said:
How in the world would you use a Inforce WML with the button on the opposite side of your support hand thumb?
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Because in this modern era of guns, it's essential to occupy every piece of rail with useless tools to make the gun as heavy as possible.

On a serious note though, yeah that rail is only good for a light if you mount a pressure switch. Useless otherwise.

EDIT: Or one has massive mitts
 
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Actually, without changing my hand position, I can reach the Switch with my fingers there. Up for flash, down for on. (or vice versa, can't remember).
I'm using this for CQB, so I will zero the Elcan for 20 yds, and the dot for 10.
 
DOOK said:
Actually, without changing my hand position, I can reach the Switch with my fingers there. Up for flash, down for on. (or vice versa, can't remember).
I'm using this for CQB, so I will zero the Elcan for 20 yds, and the dot for 10.
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For CQB, I would suggest you zero for 50 meters. Doing so will put your rounds within inches of each other all the way out to 200 meters. You just need to remember a slight holdover while inside of your zero.
 
84wh1 said:
For CQB, I would suggest you zero for 50 meters. Doing so will put your rounds within inches of each other all the way out to 200 meters. You just need to remember a slight holdover while inside of your zero.
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I concur. 50m zero puts your Elcan on at 50 and 250. Then zero dot for 10 if you absolutely want to run the offset dot. I found it easier to just skip the dot and hold over with my primary. I only find offset dots useful if my primary optic is a lengthy tube scope which has limited eye relief and is an embuggerance for support side or urban barricade situations, but as always TEHO.
 
84wh1 said:
For CQB, I would suggest you zero for 50 meters. Doing so will put your rounds within inches of each other all the way out to 200 meters. You just need to remember a slight holdover while inside of your zero.
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I wasn't able to get the BDC reticle, so I have to make due with mildot.
I always thought with .223 20 yds gave you zero at 200 as well. USMC uses 35 yd zero, so I don't know what's so funny about 20 yd zero?

What is the second crossover for 50yds?
 
The centerline of your Elcan is 3.75" above bore height, better to sight it in at 75 yds.
That way your only 2 inches low at 30 yds., dead on at 220, and 2 inches low to 260.
You will only be 1.25 inches high at 150.

Not sure about a 50yd. zero but a hundred yard will recross at 160.
 
DOOK said:
I wasn't able to get the BDC reticle, so I have to make due with mildot.
I always thought with .223 20 yds gave you zero at 200 as well. USMC uses 35 yd zero, so I don't know what's so funny about 20 yd zero?

What is the second crossover for 50yds?
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50 yards will re zero at about 250 yards. With a 50 yard zero, your gun will be in a combat accuracy hit zone anywhere from 3-300 (ish) meters. Anything inside of 50 will require a slight hold over due to height over bore. The closer you get to the target, the more aggressive your hold over will need to be.
 
Carson said:
The centerline of your Elcan is 3.75" above bore height, better to sight it in at 75 yds.
That way your only 2 inches low at 30 yds., dead on at 220, and 2 inches low to 260.
You will only be 1.25 inches high at 150.
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That's very helpful, thanks. I hadn't considered that.
 
DOOK said:
That's not very helpful. How am I to benefit from your obviously superior knowledge?
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I wasn't trying to be helpful, I find it rather amusing that you've spent a couple grand on optics for a rifle to zero them at pistol distance.
Also it's probably going to take you more time to find your dot and put it on target than it would to hold slightly over with your primary optic.
Also when you're out doing other stuff with your Tavor you'll find a longer Zero to be more satisfying than a shorter one.

But to each his own, my advice is a 50M/yd zero.
 
Innercity said:
I wasn't trying to be helpful, I find it rather amusing that you've spent a couple grand on optics for a rifle to zero them at pistol distance.
Also it's probably going to take you more time to find your dot and put it on target than it would to hold slightly over with your primary optic.
Also when you're out doing other stuff with your Tavor you'll find a longer Zero to be more satisfying than a shorter one.

But to each his own, my advice is a 50M/yd zero.
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If that was all true, I'd probably find that funny too. I wouldn't try to make that person feel foolish though, especially when I was making so many assumptions.

All in I have about $1300 into the optics. Canada ammo ROCK'S! Very happy with their prices, and customer service. Secondly, it was all EoTech refund money, so I spoiled myself a little, and proudly bought Canadian.

The CQB I shoot at 10, 25, and 35 yds. The shorter stages transition from rifle to pistol, and the rundown from 35 to 10 yds is the same. Neither would be affected by changing views.
I would also like to add, using a magnified optic at closer ranges you run a chance of cross target accidents, and the resulting hairy eyeball.
I was using a 3x with my EoTech, and had to start at the numbered base, and look up to be sure it was my target. That cost time.
 
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