Induction Annealing
- Thread starter Shooter1971
- Start date
Ordered my parts...as shown above
Also ordered a couple electromagnetic solenoids, some timers and dc motors with speed controllers. Ill probably a try a couple of different automation options. Ideally Id like to pile a couple hundred brass in and walk away. something like this...
Also ordered a couple electromagnetic solenoids, some timers and dc motors with speed controllers. Ill probably a try a couple of different automation options. Ideally Id like to pile a couple hundred brass in and walk away. something like this...
What voltage/wattage PS are you getting? Full 48v, 36v? The 48v/20A are expensive, wonder if 36v/20A is adequate. From the specs on the induction unit 36v may be better as 48v may drive the IU too hard without major cooling.
Doing research on safety of have in serial two or three server PS for 24/36v.
Edit: Notes from the unit I ordered:
general use 24V or 36V power supply is enough.
Although this circuit can tolerate 20-30A input current moment, but do not exceed 15A when safe work
Doing research on safety of have in serial two or three server PS for 24/36v.
Edit: Notes from the unit I ordered:
general use 24V or 36V power supply is enough.
Although this circuit can tolerate 20-30A input current moment, but do not exceed 15A when safe work
Last edited:
- Location
- chilliwack BC.
subscribing, for sure.
keep us posted. maybe sell a kit that has everything needed to build one?
keep us posted. maybe sell a kit that has everything needed to build one?
back40sniper
CGN Regular
- Location
- South east Sask.
What JR said, and detailed instructions for the electrically challenged.
Is 24v/15A=360w going to be enough. The annie is 1200w, even factoring 80%eff that's 960w. 48v/20A.
Hoping to find ok price 36v/20A PS.
Ordered the ZVS Ind heater with coil, PLC timer, proximity sensor, SSR-25DD DC-DC relay and a V/A meter with shunt. Draw up electric connection on piece of paper, looks like it should work. $65CAN thus far.
Hoping to find ok price 36v/20A PS.
Ordered the ZVS Ind heater with coil, PLC timer, proximity sensor, SSR-25DD DC-DC relay and a V/A meter with shunt. Draw up electric connection on piece of paper, looks like it should work. $65CAN thus far.
No...I agree not enough power...did you find a cheap 36/20?
PLC timer is same as in your OP.
Dual LED Digital Voltmeter Ammeter Amp Volt Meter DC 100V 50A + Current Shunt
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/121870306744
SSR-25DD Single Phase Solid State Module Relay 25A DC 5-60V TS
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/172128323798
Also getting these to melt metal. Might as well.
Graphite Crucible Cup Mould Propane Torch for Melting Copple Gold Silver
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/321900658461
HEADER EXHAUST TURBO INTAKE MANIFOLD DOWN PIPE BLUE HEAT WRAP TAPE 1M 2'' INCH
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/272056329067
Dual LED Digital Voltmeter Ammeter Amp Volt Meter DC 100V 50A + Current Shunt
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/121870306744
SSR-25DD Single Phase Solid State Module Relay 25A DC 5-60V TS
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/172128323798
Also getting these to melt metal. Might as well.
Graphite Crucible Cup Mould Propane Torch for Melting Copple Gold Silver
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/321900658461
HEADER EXHAUST TURBO INTAKE MANIFOLD DOWN PIPE BLUE HEAT WRAP TAPE 1M 2'' INCH
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/272056329067
Can't find my sketch, pretty sure it went to recycle; BUT didn't matter, ended up not needing one, connections was straight forward. Hardest part was figuring out how to setup the PLC timer and prox sensor (google and pdf).
Got everything working, drop in brass, prox sensor detect -> PLC timer 1 turn on IU for ~8s, then PLC timer 2 turn on pull solenoid for .4s to drop brass. Can add auto brass feed to automate the entire operation. Need to do continuous testing of say 100 brass to make sure everything works without overheating.
Caution to other DIYers. The IU can only handle several Amps without a load (brass in coil) or you will burn out the resonant capacitor. At 16A mine burn out (burst) in ~1min, got to over 200°F (knew I should have turn it off but silly me had to learn things the hard way).
The cheap 25A SR-25DD DC-DC relay (FOTEK brand) has a bad batch that can't handle more than 10A. My 25A fried after about 20 brass (got a full refund). Waiting for another brand to arrive. Might also try the 40A or better yet 60A model.
Once all my parts arrive hope to do a DIY guide. Anyone familiar with simple electronic circuit will find it easy to connect.
Got everything working, drop in brass, prox sensor detect -> PLC timer 1 turn on IU for ~8s, then PLC timer 2 turn on pull solenoid for .4s to drop brass. Can add auto brass feed to automate the entire operation. Need to do continuous testing of say 100 brass to make sure everything works without overheating.
Caution to other DIYers. The IU can only handle several Amps without a load (brass in coil) or you will burn out the resonant capacitor. At 16A mine burn out (burst) in ~1min, got to over 200°F (knew I should have turn it off but silly me had to learn things the hard way).
The cheap 25A SR-25DD DC-DC relay (FOTEK brand) has a bad batch that can't handle more than 10A. My 25A fried after about 20 brass (got a full refund). Waiting for another brand to arrive. Might also try the 40A or better yet 60A model.
Once all my parts arrive hope to do a DIY guide. Anyone familiar with simple electronic circuit will find it easy to connect.
Once upon a time, when my brass cases got hard from sizing them a few times, I would deprime, set the cases in an inch of water in a pan, then heat the necks and shoulder area with a propane torch. When I saw them reach a dull red, I would tip the case over in the water. The cases worked fine and I don't remember ever losing a single case, from annealing.
I knew something about annealing copper, from working with aircraft engineers. The spark plugs on aircraft engines have a copper gasket, about 1/10 inch thick on them, tor the seal between plug and engine. Every time a spark plug was removed from the engine, the copper gasket had to be annealed, before reinstalling. Every engineer I knew, used the same process for annealing. They slid the copper rings, all 18 of them from a P & W engine, on a light, horizontal running metal shaft, or heavy wire, held from one end with the open end over a pan of water. They used one or two propane torches to heat the rings at the end and when they showed red, they slid a ring off and let it fall in the water.
Now, every thing I read about annealing here on CGN, the major concern is don't get them too hot. Videos are showing temperature colors that are much too cool to even melt solder, and then some are saying that is too hot!
So, I go to Mr. Google and come up with this.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/what-temperature-anneal-copper-246989/
and this,
http://www.nancylthamilton.com/wp-c...-Metals-Annealing-Temperatures-for-Metals.pdf
So what is your reason for annealing at such low temperatures?
I knew something about annealing copper, from working with aircraft engineers. The spark plugs on aircraft engines have a copper gasket, about 1/10 inch thick on them, tor the seal between plug and engine. Every time a spark plug was removed from the engine, the copper gasket had to be annealed, before reinstalling. Every engineer I knew, used the same process for annealing. They slid the copper rings, all 18 of them from a P & W engine, on a light, horizontal running metal shaft, or heavy wire, held from one end with the open end over a pan of water. They used one or two propane torches to heat the rings at the end and when they showed red, they slid a ring off and let it fall in the water.
Now, every thing I read about annealing here on CGN, the major concern is don't get them too hot. Videos are showing temperature colors that are much too cool to even melt solder, and then some are saying that is too hot!
So, I go to Mr. Google and come up with this.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/what-temperature-anneal-copper-246989/
and this,
http://www.nancylthamilton.com/wp-c...-Metals-Annealing-Temperatures-for-Metals.pdf
So what is your reason for annealing at such low temperatures?
- Location
- chilliwack BC.
the difference between washers and cases is that the washer can be one hardness thru the whole thing, and its ok if its a bit soft as its for sealing. I am an auto tech so I also use soft copper to seal in various locations.
cases on the other hand have at least two different hardnesses. the case heads have to be quite hard, but the necks cannot be too soft or they will crush. Specific hardnesses, not just soft.
cases on the other hand have at least two different hardnesses. the case heads have to be quite hard, but the necks cannot be too soft or they will crush. Specific hardnesses, not just soft.
