Chiappa Loctites their barrels. With bonus pic!

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BeRock

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I heard directly from Chiappa that they use thread locking compound on their barrel threads.

I thought I would post this info here for future info searchers -- not so much to promote a discussion (but fill your boots). It could save some barrel remover some grief. Gunsmiths may know this, but home gamers may not. Remove accordingly. I asked about a new 1892 in particular.

Hopefully they use a Blue type that needs no heat to break it free. I'll ask.

Pictures make posts better (and I frickin' love this thing):

 
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I've rebarelled several rifles and never used thread locker as 80-100 ft-lb of torque is enough to keep lug nuts on my 4x4 so it seems good for a barrel that undergoes little torque in its function. I've take a barrel off a 100 year old rifle that needed no thread locker so it seems to me a pointless step in attaching a barrel though some manufacturers do this including Remington.
 
brybenn said:
Decent looking gun. How's it for function?
Click to expand...

I have't yet fired it. I need some light plinking loads to get used to it first. I'm a 22LR, 6.5 Swede and 10M olympic style air rifle shooter -- Flinching has never been an issue to tame -- so I figure I better not start with full magnum loads.

Its extractor claw was a bit too long and that made the final ramp up and over the case rim a bit hard to lever -- and there were sharp edges to deal with inside the loading gate and along the receiver's bolt rails... but even so, it felt quite nice.... Nice, but new. Not at all like a stiff new Rossi. After the extractor was dealt with and three minutes deburring edges it feels like a smooth old Winchester -- and not because of lubricant. I keep actions mostly dry. The trigger is truly excellent.... way better than I expected. I'm an instrument maker and machinist -- and I'm impressed with the quality of the machining and metal. I heard things about "soft metal" inside Italian guns... I'd day that's not the case at Chiappa. A couple of the receiver screw heads had some factory screwdriver marks... but they were easy to peen, polish and heat-blue... I'm not sure why I have better screwdrivers than they do. Overall, I really like it and I'd buy another. The price point must not allow for the detailing you'd get in a more expensive gun... but then I'm super picky about machining quality -- and I've done pretty much the same thing to a new CZ. Out of the box it was a lot nicer than an unfired '66 Winchester I had -- a lot. The sharp loading gate is unforgivable though... Your really oughta be able to stick your finger right in there and pull it out intact. The receiver guts have to come out 100% to fix that. Still...
 
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hunter5425 said:
I've rebarelled several rifles and never used thread locker as 80-100 ft-lb of torque is enough to keep lug nuts on my 4x4 so it seems good for a barrel that undergoes little torque in its function. I've take a barrel off a 100 year old rifle that needed no thread locker so it seems to me a pointless step in attaching a barrel though some manufacturers do this including Remington.
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If they have to use Loc tite, you've got to wonder about their tolerances ? :confused:

Grizz
 
Lots of big companies use loctite. Rem, savage, winchester.

When barrel threads are cut on one cnc machines, and reciever threads cut on another. All it takes it a small thread on the barrel and a big thread on the reciever to make it clicky lose. Then of course you can get the other way as well big barrel thread and small receiver thread and you get a nice tight fit.
 
When removing thread locked Remington barrels, I would heat the joint area until it would fry spit. Not hot enough to change colours, etc. This caused the locker to degrade.
Is the colour case on the Chiappa lacquered to protect it? If there is a clear coat, I would be really cautious about using any heat.
 
tiriaq said:
When removing thread locked Remington barrels, I would heat the joint area until it would fry spit. Not hot enough to change colours, etc. This caused the locker to degrade.
Is the colour case on the Chiappa lacquered to protect it? If there is a clear coat, I would be really cautious about using any heat.
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I've had a good look at the finish under a 40X microscope -- and I don't see any lacquer... I do see tiny handling scratches directly into the metal surface. It's the real deal bone and charcoal colour case hardening -- not that chemical facsimile Uberti uses (says a "How It's Made" episode about Uberti).

My bet is they use blue type loctite -- which doesn't glue the threads very hard. Loctite's data sheet even instructs disassembly without heat -- but there's no harm in heating it to 250°F (although under 325 would technically be fine if one knows the temperature). I'm pretty curious about what they use. Some loctites need way more heat.
 
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