Remington 700 Bedding Pillars

RangerPark

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Does anyone know where I could find some 1/2" bedding pillars for a Remington 700, locally in Edmonton? I have some on order but they're now 2 weeks overdue and I'm starting to look at different options. Exact dimensions would be .480" OD, .5/16" ID and .800" height, flat tops, not curved, x2. Preferably grooved and knurled on the outside and 6061-T6 or similar.

PM me if you have some on hand or if you have a lathe and some 1/2" aluminum round stock. If you have a lathe and are willing to help out I'll dig up some round stock myself. I'll gladly pay a reasonable price for them.
 
I think you are wasting money having exact spec, grooved/knurled pillars custom pillars made...

You can pour fiber glass pillars right in the stock that will function just as well... easier and much cheaper.
 
I'm soooooooo close to doing just that. Been reading about the process. I already opened up the holes to 1/2". I would drown the action screws in release agent, bed the whole thing with the screws in there. Then I would open the screw holes back to 5/16". Any thoughts? I'll be using Devcon for the job.

I think you are wasting money having exact spec, grooved/knurled pillars custom pillars made...

You can pour fiber glass pillars right in the stock that will function just as well... easier and much cheaper.
 
That's all I have ever done for years Just drill them out a little after you are finished to give the guard screws (bolts) some clearance.
 
Drill out the Devcon pillars large enough to accept the shafting used for Titanium arrow shafts with an internal diameter larger than your stock bolts.

At this point it is very easy to get an exact length needed to create these strong/solid walls. Cut the shafts with a hack saw and file down to length desired by chucking the pillars up in a hand drill. This will give you a straight even edge all the way around at both ends.

The shafting is available as scrap bits at any good shop that sells archery equipment for a couple of dollars. More often than not they will just give you a couple of 10-12 cm bits out of their scrap box.

I use this system regularly. Epoxy is great and the Devcon offerings are some of the best. I like the added pillars though for a couple of reasons. Mostly because there is absolutely no compression on the titanium shafts and there is no shrinkage after the epoxy has cured for a couple of months. For most applications the shrinkage is so minimal it doesn't make much if any difference though. I just like the idea of the rigid back up pillars.
 
Any pics?

I'm doing a complete bedding job in several steps, action, barrel channel, pillars, magbox and DBM. DBM and pillars are all done, need finishing touches on tang area, magbox and barrel channel. It's been quite an endeavor so far. I will most definitely post pics when I'm done, along with a "don't do all the stupid things I did" thread.
 
Here's some pics of the pillars and bedding job. This was my first bedding job and I think that it was a success. Next time I do a whole rifle I will definitely do some things differently, mostly for cosmetic reasons. Many places could use some finishing touches but I will shoot the rifle first to see where I need to do touch ups.

The barrel channel turned out ok. This McMillan had a barrel channel inletted for a howitzer profiled barrel. My barrel is a medium palma contour and there was excessive space in the barrel channel. I used a .040" free float gap, this resulted in nearly 1/8" of epoxy in the channel.
IMG_20160709_142128685_zpsoj0r6fwd.jpg


The recoil lug and front pillar look good. You can clearly see the diameter of the pillar. There's blemishes in the finish but it doesn't look like it's going to peel or crack. I'm pretty happy with the recoil lug fit.
IMG_20160709_142118471_zpspbmmzqjq.jpg


The rear tang also came out ok. I tried to maximize stock to action contact in the rear but in the end there wasn't much left.
IMG_20160709_142114934_zpsiddoutox.jpg


This is the rear part of the trigger guard. Notice the epoxy between the trigger area and magwell. The original inletting had this area completely machined out. I could squeeze the stock with my fingers and see the flex. I rebuild the area with Devcon. Rock solid and looks good too.
IMG_20160709_142059948_zpstwo0ps1l.jpg


The magwell and front pillar came out good. I opened up the holes with a reamer and that was a mistake. The ovalisation is quire obvious. Next time I will use a counterbore. The action screw holes are at 9/32" right now, might open them up to 5/16" to restore the roundness. This is a cosmetic issue as the screws fit just fine.
IMG_20160709_142052548_zpsspf6tq0g.jpg
 
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So you pour the pillars first with the action in the stock with a set of screws coated to prevent epoxy bind..When cured bed again and put the action in and let it cure to achieve the posted results?

R
 
So you pour the pillars first with the action in the stock with a set of screws coated to prevent epoxy bind..When cured bed again and put the action in and let it cure to achieve the posted results?

When I did mine I actually bedded the whole rifle at the same time. This was a really, really, really (emphasis added), really bad idea. It took me over an hour to defeat the various mechanical locks I had created. And I had to redo the DBM, magwell and rear tang.

My next time around I will do the pillars first. But you have to take into account where the epoxy will flow if you pour the pillars with the action in there. You'll want to have the bottom metal in there to have proper pillars on both ends. If the action is in there too all the surplus epoxy will flow through the action screw holes when you put the screws in, that would be bad.

So I would do the pillars like this:
1- Open the screw holes to 1/2" with counterbore, likely with a 5/16" pilot.
2- Tape over the pillar holes on the action side.
3- Pour the epoxy in the pillars from DBM side.
4- Thoroughly cover DBM in release agent and put in place.
5- Release agent on action screws and slowly insert down pillar all the way down to tape.
6- Depending on where you want the extra epoxy to flow you might want a hole in the tape. If not it will flow in the DBM.
7- Remove the tape and push the screws through. If you're using Devcon you won't have to worry about epoxy falling out of the hole.
8- Cover the action in release agent, especially inside the bolt channel in case epoxy gets in there, and screw the action in.
9- Use only enough torque on the action screws to sit the action properly.
10- Let cure for 24 hours, take apart, remove excess, and inlet the action, DBM, or whatever you want to bed next and repeat.

So I would do the pillars first. I would then do the action and DBM in the next step. I would then finish with the barrel channel.
 
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