New to .222. Buy Lapua brass or Prvi ammo... or?

BeRock

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Hi All,

I'm new to .222 -- and plan on reloading it. I can't figure out the best course of action on this... Googling this spins my brain and I end looking at news and real estate and pictures of kittens and puppies with my girlfriend. So... Help.

Option 1: Buy 200 Lapua brass for $250 with tax and shipping (I want 200 for a slower rotation)... Reload it a loooooong time (so they say). Feel all fancy because I shoot Lapua brass.

Option 2: Buy 200 Prvi factory ammos for $192 all in... See what the rifle does before I buy dies... Reload it a good number of times. Feel all thrifty and smart that I didn't go down a BS whirlpool.... since I'm not a bench-rester.

Option 3: Your brilliant idea.

I'm thinking Option 2 (or 3)... as this rifle doesn't even have a scope yet -- it's a Brno ZKK-601 with a peep-sight in the rear receiver bridge... I may even keep the peep for the duration.

Is Lapua brass that much better that it makes more sense in the end? I'm open.

Also: With one rifle and no sharing, should I just neck-size and not full-size?

Also: Feel free to recommend a bullet. I'm not looking forward to the hours of googling that. Jeeze... even a powder.

Borrowed interweb pic for your pleasure:

 
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I would leap on #2. I'm new to reloading, but have had good luck with privi factory ammo.

Lapua Brass is excellent. Lapua anything is pretty groovy. It's pricey. You would have to do a lot of shooting to see a $ gain on the primary cost difference. You also have the benefit of seeing if you really like shooting the thing, AND a baseline performance of factory ammo to compete with should you choose to press your own. You could even get a baseline performance from your rifle, and re-build pulled factory ammo for kicks.

Option 3? find dies n' brass that beats #2. Now that I'm set up for reloading, and have learned to be patient (harder than pressing by far) I have found parcels of brass n' dies (even bullets) at a deal.

-neck size vs FL is a neat debate. For cheap shooting start with a fl because even the neck sizing crowd have to full length on occasion.
 
If the PRVI is all one lot, I'd go for that. Use it to sight in your scope and practice and get familiar with your set up. Then use the brass and check the case variation in weight. I bet it will be within 1-2 grains. Unless you are going to compete in bench-rest competitions, you really don't need the Lapua brass. Since you're going to fire the reloads in the same gun, I'd neck size only. You'll find that the 53gr bullets are probably the best. Can't go wrong with Sierra MatchKings but I've found that most 53gr bullets are tack drivers. Oh, and unless you really hotrod your loads, you'll get at least 15 reloads out of your brass. I've reloaded Norma brass about 20 times without any problems. I normally anneal after 10 firings. Get a set of decent dies like RCBS if you're on a budget or Redding or Foster if you want the best. Good luck with your new toy :p
 
I purchased 500 Lapua brass many years ago and never looked back. Previously I shot plain jane WW or RP stuff and had no problem shooting sub-MOA groups after a dozen reloads or more. Tossed this brass when neck splits started to appear. Lapua comes factory annealed and is mighty fine brass albeit pricey. My Sako 222 Varmint rifle shoots 50 grain Sierra Blitz wonderfully...no need to tweak new loads although I have been shooting a lot of Hornady 40 grain V-MAX with fine results too...and MV of about 3600FPS. Oh and welcome to the Triple Duce club as well! Now if the gophers would only make a comeback...
 
I purchased 500 Lapua brass many years ago and never looked back. Previously I shot plain jane WW or RP stuff and had no problem shooting sub-MOA groups after a dozen reloads or more. Tossed this brass when neck splits started to appear. Lapua comes factory annealed and is mighty fine brass albeit pricey. My Sako 222 Varmint rifle shoots 50 grain Sierra Blitz wonderfully...no need to tweak new loads although I have been shooting a lot of Hornady 40 grain V-MAX with fine results too...and MV of about 3600FPS. Oh and welcome to the Triple Duce club as well! Now if the gophers would only make a comeback...

All factory brass is annealed.

To the op

I use hornady, winchester, and some remington all can go over 10 reloads no problem. I haven't felt the need to spend $1.50-2 on one piece of brass yet. The 1F (or new)brass I have bought/been given has preformed to my expectations.

There is also this to consider.

308fail-1_zps30d387ab.jpg


308fail2-1_zps3ca31f6b.jpg
 
I think your crazy to cheap out on the PRVI for only 60$. But thats just my opinion. I have shot lots of different brass and none as good as Lapua.
That Lapua brass will last you a long time, especially if your not loading really hot
 
I think your crazy to cheap out on the PRVI for only 60$. But thats just my opinion. I have shot lots of different brass and none as good as Lapua.
That Lapua brass will last you a long time, especially if your not loading really hot

I suspect it'll boil down to what kind of shooting. 200 factory + use of brass beyond, vs more expensive brass alone. 5-10 x fired (and beyond) means a LOT of shooting at a pretty high level to see any economical, or practical advantage. OP doesn't even have dies yet.
 
Go with Option 2. PRVI brass is excellent and with a little prep shoots as well as anything else... and it is strong. Keep loads sane and the brass will live a very long time... if you anneal.

You should fire form the cases anyways so you have a way to do the 2 things you want. Just don't be surprised if the factory ammo doesn't shoot as well as you can create with handloads.

The final option is to get into reloading from the start. I find this the most useful as accuracy can be tailored to the rifle and usually is more accurate/consistent then random factory ammo.

Let me know

Jerry
 
OP here.

Thanks a lot guys. I'm glad that both my original options seem pretty valid. I still don't know which way I'll go until I shoot a box or two of factory. I was driving by Cabela's, so I picked up a box of 50gr Hornady V-Max... So I'll have those cases to learn from. I suppose I shouldn't be too worried about doing exactly the perfect thing and just learn as I go.... I forgot about the learning-is-fun part. The internet can spiral your head into definite opinions that are really just splitting hairs. I think I'll buy some PRVI ammo and some Lapua brass! It seems like .222 is about as forgiving as it gets.

If we can find a house, I'm moving to Oliver BC with a range just 7kms away... I see a lot more shooting.

Jerry: Anneal how often? After 4 or 5? I do understand the metallurgy. There is still lots of miserable googling to do though...
 
I would buy the Privi. Your rifle is not the type that would benefit by "better" brass.

Buy bullets in the 50 to 55 gr range. The heaviest bullet your rifle will shoot is th Sirra 60gr HP, if it is loaded hot. I mention that in case you want to use the rifle on deer.

As for powder a medium speed between 3031 and Varget. 4895, BLC2, H335, 748
 
I'd buy the Prvi ammo: for your money you get factory rounds to shoot and brass to reload. I did the same with 7.5x55 Swiss for my K31's.

Keep in mind that this is not the only brass or ammo you will ever buy. Figure out reloading and brass prep and maintenance on some less expensive stuff first before you mangle the pricey Lapua stuff. If you find this overwhelming now, just imagine how you'll feel when you accidentally crush or dent that $20 (or however much it is) Lapua case in the press.

Get comfortable with the tools and processes with less costly disposable stuff and then treat yourself to the good stuff when you're more knowledgeable and confident.

Good luck and enjoy it all!
 
All factory brass is annealed.

To the op

I use hornady, winchester, and some remington all can go over 10 reloads no problem. I haven't felt the need to spend $1.50-2 on one piece of brass yet. The 1F (or new)brass I have bought/been given has preformed to my expectations.

There is also this to consider.

308fail-1_zps30d387ab.jpg


308fail2-1_zps3ca31f6b.jpg

Very interesting study HH. I have never had a 222 case head separation though, but neck splits were common after 10 or so loads. I mainly used RP bagged factory new brass and went from there. Further I am not "brass friendly" in that I never annealed but only trimmer every 3 or so loadings. When necks got blackened and work hardened they would go into the recycler can or be simply left in the field.

I am a high volume shooter although today not so much at scarcely 500 rounds/year these days. I have fire a gajillion 222 loads in the past 35 years and still find this cartridge to be so terribly accurate, very useful and pleasant to shoot. I did too at one point form 222 cases from 223 casings and found accuracy to be poor as in not typical 3/8 groups but still MOA accuracy was attainable. Too much hassle though.
 
I would buy the prvi ammo for sure. I have shot .222 for years and not being a bench rest guy, had many 1/2" groups with "ordinary" hand loads. As many have said, the .222 is an inherently accurate cartridge, and you wouldn't benefit greatly from the Lapua brass.

Jerry mentioned that you will be able to fire form your brass while practicing with the prvi ammo, which is another great reason in it's favour.

Have fun with the .222, it's a great round!
 
Unless you are in bench rest competitor any brass will be fine .
IMHO opinion it'll be little while before you going to need top drawer brass .
 
I have the same rifle as you, it shoots pretty well with most factory loads, but I have not tried Prvi .222. The Prvi loads were good in my .308 and case life excellent. My ZKK really likes the Hornady 40 grain Vmax bullets, in handholds and in the Hornady factory loads. One tip I discovered is that mine will not feed reliably from the magazine if bullets are seated way out to almost touch the lands, but it really doesn't matter, seated deeper than " optimum" still gives very good accuracy.
 
Thanks again All. 10 boxes of Prvi on the way.

Thanks Longwalker.... I prefer the rhythm of single shots, so I may never notice the feeding problems. I also may never notice any accuracy changes with the iron sights! I'm sure I'll slide down the slippery slope of scopes soon.
 
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