Pietta 1873 .357 questions.

B

bobdbldr

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
16   0   0
Location
Nova Scotia
Hi folks
I just bought a Pietta 1873 in .357 mag. I removed the cylinder to clean it before shooting and when putting back together realize there are two notches on the cylinder pin, can anyone tell me which notch is the right one to lock in to and why is there two? Thanks!
Also,cthere is the best place to buy parts for these?
Cheers Bob
Edit: found out which one, the hammer won't drop on the deepest notch so must be the other!! Still would like to know where to get good parts and a good video on disassembly/reassembly!! Or a book/ manual.
 
Last edited:
Not sure if it's exactly what you're after, but Brownells sells a book by Jerry K. (a shop manual for Colt SAA revolvers) I am sure I've seen the Pietta's and Uberti's mentioned in various sections regarding thread patterns and such that vary between the true Colts and Replica-makes.. That book would probably be a step in the direction you are trying to get.

Look it up, but (I think) it's an excellent book for anyone wih a SAA revolver.. Colt/Uberti/Pietta they're more-less the same design. Patents expired and there-came the replicas, basically. Much of the information in that book is interchangable between the three.
 
whiskeywillow said:
Not sure if it's exactly what you're after, but Brownells sells a book by Jerry K. (a shop manual for Colt SAA revolvers) I am sure I've seen the Pietta's and Uberti's mentioned in various sections regarding thread patterns and such that vary between the true Colts and Replica-makes.. That book would probably be a step in the direction you are trying to get.

Look it up, but (I think) it's an excellent book for anyone wih a SAA revolver.. Colt/Uberti/Pietta they're more-less the same design. Patents expired and there-came the replicas, basically. Much of the information in that book is interchangable between the three.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks I will take a look!
 
You Tube is as good as any. Just put in "single action colt disassembly" or "single action revolver tear down" or similar words. There's so many that it's a case of looking at a few and finding the one that is paced at the right sort of speed for your needs. Some are just too slow to watch and others gloss over it all so fast that they are more for a reminder than as a "how to".

As for parts I'd hope you don't need any. My own two Pietta guns have stood up super well for my 8 years of cowboy action and quite a few thousands of rounds downrange. This includes the occasional magnum round just for giggles. But if the day should come I think you'll find that Marstar can provide you with your parts.

One thing to watch out for if you feel you want to tune the gun. You need to realize that the parts in the gun are all hand adjusted so that they do each thing in turn at the right point. And a change to any one fit alters the rest of the actions right down to the end and the final lockup of the gun. For example if you remove much of any metal from the trigger sear and hammer hook you will loosen up the final cylinder lockup. So don't do much of anything without learning more about it first.

When I did a buddy's Pietta revolvers recently the metal removal was limited to a very light polishing of the angled cam found on the side of the hammer. It was polished only enough to barely remove the crests on the rather coarse looking ground surface. No attempt was made to reduce the face down to remove the grinding marks other than just topping off the crests so it would be a smoother run for the finger on the stop bolt's spring. The other bit of metal that was removed was a very small bevel on the hammer hook so it would not be a knife edge. This was done with a medium grit slip stone to form a small faceted face to aid in reducing the trigger creep. But the actual face of the hook that retains the sear of the trigger was left alone and will self burnish itself in time. The result was that the amount of engagement of the sear to the hook face was reduced from something around .025 to .028 down to around .018. It was also done as a facet instead of simply removing it because if I removed it then the sear of the trigger would collide with the nose of the safety notch as it passed by and result in possible damage.

I offer all this for two reasons. First is to try to point out how interrelated all the parts in the old original Colt action are to each other. And the second is to provide you some numbers and cautions to work towards if you get brave enough to try it for yourself. But be warned that such things as the hammer hook stoning require a jig to ensure an even face to the facet. Otherwise the sear won't break consistently along the edge. It is not something you want to do by eye.
 
BCRider said:
You Tube is as good as any. Just put in "single action colt disassembly" or "single action revolver tear down" or similar words. There's so many that it's a case of looking at a few and finding the one that is paced at the right sort of speed for your needs. Some are just too slow to watch and others gloss over it all so fast that they are more for a reminder than as a "how to".

As for parts I'd hope you don't need any. My own two Pietta guns have stood up super well for my 8 years of cowboy action and quite a few thousands of rounds downrange. This includes the occasional magnum round just for giggles. But if the day should come I think you'll find that Marstar can provide you with your parts.

One thing to watch out for if you feel you want to tune the gun. You need to realize that the parts in the gun are all hand adjusted so that they do each thing in turn at the right point. And a change to any one fit alters the rest of the actions right down to the end and the final lockup of the gun. For example if you remove much of any metal from the trigger sear and hammer hook you will loosen up the final cylinder lockup. So don't do much of anything without learning more about it first.

When I did a buddy's Pietta revolvers recently the metal removal was limited to a very light polishing of the angled cam found on the side of the hammer. It was polished only enough to barely remove the crests on the rather coarse looking ground surface. No attempt was made to reduce the face down to remove the grinding marks other than just topping off the crests so it would be a smoother run for the finger on the stop bolt's spring. The other bit of metal that was removed was a very small bevel on the hammer hook so it would not be a knife edge. This was done with a medium grit slip stone to form a small faceted face to aid in reducing the trigger creep. But the actual face of the hook that retains the sear of the trigger was left alone and will self burnish itself in time. The result was that the amount of engagement of the sear to the hook face was reduced from something around .025 to .028 down to around .018. It was also done as a facet instead of simply removing it because if I removed it then the sear of the trigger would collide with the nose of the safety notch as it passed by and result in possible
I offer all this for two reasons. First is to try to point out how interrelated all the parts in the old original Colt action are to each other. And the second is to provide you some numbers and cautions to work towards if you get brave enough to try it for yourself. But be warned that such things as the hammer hook stoning require a jig to ensure an even face to the facet. Otherwise the sear won't break consistently along the edge. It is not something you want to do by eye.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I won't be trying anything fancy on these rigs any time soon, my problem was self induced as I put the cylinder pin in the wrong notch! The parts are for future it is a .357mag and that is what I fired yesterday( was fun) just because that is all I could find locally on short notice, I plan on mostly .38 special, and probably reload. Mine is the old style with the loose firing pin and I figure I will need some parts sooner or later although your comments on the longevity of your Pietta is heartening!
 
The first of two notches in the cylinder pin from the muzzle end is a safety feature with newer Italian made Colt SAA clones for when shipping or when stored. When the first notch as mentioned is engaged the hammer will not strike all the way home and allow the firing pin to hit a primer as the end of the cylinder pin protrudes into the hammer recess. When the cylinder pin is pulled back to the second proper notch the hammer obstruction is now clear and the revolver works and shoots as designed.
 
bobdbldr said:
Thanks, I won't be trying anything fancy on these rigs any time soon, my problem was self induced as I put the cylinder pin in the wrong notch! The parts are for future it is a .357mag and that is what I fired yesterday( was fun) just because that is all I could find locally on short notice, I plan on mostly .38 special, and probably reload. Mine is the old style with the loose firing pin and I figure I will need some parts sooner or later although your comments on the longevity of your Pietta is heartening!
Click to expand...

If you got one that is assembled right it should last you decades of use or many thousands of shots fired before you wear out parts or need spare parts as long as you are not abusive with it or try fanning the hammer too much.
 
mkrnel said:
If you got one that is assembled right it should last you decades of use or many thousands of shots fired before you wear out parts or need spare parts as long as you are not abusive with it or try fanning the hammer too much.
Click to expand...

Haha, thanks, no fanning here, and yea I figured out after that the second notch was the one, cleaned and lubed and waiting for Canam to put .38 special on sale!!
Oh yea and I love these rigs, just beautiful looking! However if I had the choice back then I woul get the break top Smith And Wesson model 3 in .44 Russian , much quicker to reload and accurate, the schofields would have been awesome! I have a couple .44 Russian and they are much quicker and easier to reload!
 
bobdbldr said:
Haha, thanks, no fanning here, and yea I figured out after that the second notch was the one, cleaned and lubed and waiting for Canam to put .38 special on sale!!
Oh yea and I love these rigs, just beautiful looking! However if I had the choice back then I woul get the break top Smith And Wesson model 3 in .44 Russian , much quicker to reload and accurate, the schofields would have been awesome! I have a couple .44 Russian and they are much quicker and easier to reload!
Click to expand...

Yes, I am very partial to the S&W top breaks too.
 
Be sure you have the shooting notch engaged before shooting, or it will work forward causing the back of the cylinder to drop.

If you primer indentations are off center, your cylinder pin has worked forward.
 
No panic but somewhere along the line when you have the gun fully stripped down I'd suggest you put the hammer on a hard block of steel and give the firing pin retaining pin a few small love taps with a hammer and punch to flare the pin out a little.

The ONLY failure I've had to date on my two Piettas is that this small cross pin on one gun jumped ship. I noticed it before the firing pin followed. To ensure it didn't happen again I very slightly counter sunk the two sides of the hammer and put in a new pin which was peened down to rivet the ends into the countersunk areas. No way it's going anywhere now short of shattering in the middle and cominb out both ways.

On the other gun the pin looked fine. But to hedge my bets I used a narrow angle "prick punch" to dimple the ends and swage the metal outwards for a more firm fit. This option is what I'm suggesting you might want to do as well. But no panic. It took 7 years for the one pin to decide to leave home.
 
BCRider said:
No panic but somewhere along the line when you have the gun fully stripped down I'd suggest you put the hammer on a hard block of steel and give the firing pin retaining pin a few small love taps with a hammer and punch to flare the pin out a little.

The ONLY failure I've had to date on my two Piettas is that this small cross pin on one gun jumped ship. I noticed it before the firing pin followed. To ensure it didn't happen again I very slightly counter sunk the two sides of the hammer and put in a new pin which was peened down to rivet the ends into the countersunk areas. No way it's going anywhere now short of shattering in the middle and cominb out both ways.

On the other gun the pin looked fine. But to hedge my bets I used a narrow angle "prick punch" to dimple the ends and swage the metal outwards for a more firm fit. This option is what I'm suggesting you might want to do as well. But no panic. It took 7 years for the one pin to decide to leave home.
Click to expand...
Wilco on next strip down, I will make sure they are tightened, the firing pin looks so sloppy but obviously it is supposed to be that way and with seven years of use, I guess it works fine!! Thanks again!
 
Hi guys, I was out now a couple times with my 1873, I love shooting that rig, she shoots about 5-6" high at 20 yards with the .38 sp or .357 mag. Seems to hit around the same spot +-,, a friend at the range has the second model with the bar safety and the bar broke, he is looking for a place to get parts. He tried Marstar and basically was told they could try to order it with their next order but it's iffy and could take 6 months-a year!! There must be a better option! Does any one know? maybe Numrich?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom