M14 shims canada

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MartyK2500

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These are getting scarce, the only dealer i saw with them lately in stock was hical, now even him is out of stock!
Any other suggestions other than brownells?

I saw on other forums that some people make their own shims, anything someone else here does?
 
Contact Tactical Teacher. He had the punch set at his M14 tuning clinics a few years ago. He might have some available.
 
I made a couple jigs to circular interpolate the ID, then turn down the OD over a mandrel. I can do a stack of 10 or so .005 shims at a time on either. I can take pics of the setup if anyone wants to see. No, I'm not authorized to sell 'em here.
 
No i haven't yet. I will try on my first two M305s soon. I wanted shims as i'm lining myself for a 3rd M305 soon.
Will want to try different builds with different things. One things sure is i'll have one standby for the wolverine supplies part kit.
 
Rule 303 said:
OP, have you tried flipping the gas cylinder lock (the figure 8 thingie) over?

I attended two M14 clinics and that trick worked 90% of the time.
Click to expand...

I have tried with both rifles, i didn't get to taking of welded flash hider yet, so now was the time.
On one rifle reversing gas lock worked wonders, the other not as much.
Any downside in reversing gas lock?
 
MartyK2500 said:
I have tried with both rifles, i didn't get to taking of welded flash hider yet, so now was the time.
On one rifle reversing gas lock worked wonders, the other not as much.
Any downside in reversing gas lock?
Click to expand...

Shims wear out...fairly quickly in my opinion. Reversing the gas lock or finding one that times correctly is the better method. Although I've not used one, I would think that a Dlask adjustable gas lock would also work well.
 
As Oddshot states,

The shim is supposed to installed between the raised boss on the barrel and the gas cylinder.

There is also no need to ever remove the gas cylinder for regular cleaning. Once a rifle is completely set up any and all cleaning operations can be done with-out removing the gas system.

Side note: hungry/Barney/ Tactical teacher has ready access to Canadian made shims. They are perfectly serviceable and he hands them out like candy at clinics or for the price of postage, it seems. While they are serviceable, they do not like to be removed and re-installed. Treat them like a crush washer, one time use! Once installed and then un-installed they shouldn't be counted on to be reused. The offerings from brownelles (it's a $15 3 piece kit 5-10-15 thou) is a "barrel lifespan" item. I believe the ones on Brownelles are made by Fulton armoury. They can be removed and re-installed (with-in reason).

That said, I still don't see the reason to remove the gas system whenever the mood strikes you. The bore can and should be cleaned with out removal of the gas system, the gas system can and should be cleaned with out removal from the barrel. The only time you really a need to remove the action from the stock is when you are doing a full detail strip and clean, and even then you don't have to remove the gas cylinder from the barrel. Some bedded rifles do require the gas system to be removed or loosened to facilitate a detail strip and clean. In that particular instance I don't believe any builder worth his salt would install a shim!

The biggest problem I have seen using shims is you may mis-align the gas port to the gas cylinder. Which can cause short stroking.

You can also negate the need for shims if you can swap the gas lock front to back, or a different gas lock or (only for the really brave) roll over the barrel boss so that it makes contact on the gas cylinder further out. I don't reccomend rolling the barrel boss unless you are a fairly experienced "tuner" or an experienced metal worker. You want the rolled edge uniform all the way around the barrel.

My $.02

Cheers!
 
Shooster said:
I have at least one set of shims, maybe two, somewhere. Likely 1.5 ish sets as I know I used some of them on a rifle a while back. I'm not using them so they may as well go to a good home. PM me if interested.
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Thanks for the offer it's kind, they are both fully dissassembled, and mixing and matching parts got both my gas locks real tight.
They we're finger tight at 3oclock, like trying my best with fingers at 3, so to go down 6 oclock i had to wrench it a bit hard to go down
 
notsorichguy said:
As Oddshot states,

The shim is supposed to installed between the raised boss on the barrel and the gas cylinder.

There is also no need to ever remove the gas cylinder for regular cleaning. Once a rifle is completely set up any and all cleaning operations can be done with-out removing the gas system.

Side note: hungry/Barney/ Tactical teacher has ready access to Canadian made shims. They are perfectly serviceable and he hands them out like candy at clinics or for the price of postage, it seems. While they are serviceable, they do not like to be removed and re-installed. Treat them like a crush washer, one time use! Once installed and then un-installed they shouldn't be counted on to be reused. The offerings from brownelles (it's a $15 3 piece kit 5-10-15 thou) is a "barrel lifespan" item. I believe the ones on Brownelles are made by Fulton armoury. They can be removed and re-installed (with-in reason).

That said, I still don't see the reason to remove the gas system whenever the mood strikes you. The bore can and should be cleaned with out removal of the gas system, the gas system can and should be cleaned with out removal from the barrel. The only time you really a need to remove the action from the stock is when you are doing a full detail strip and clean, and even then you don't have to remove the gas cylinder from the barrel. Some bedded rifles do require the gas system to be removed or loosened to facilitate a detail strip and clean. In that particular instance I don't believe any builder worth his salt would install a shim!

The biggest problem I have seen using shims is you may mis-align the gas port to the gas cylinder. Which can cause short stroking.

You can also negate the need for shims if you can swap the gas lock front to back, or a different gas lock or (only for the really brave) roll over the barrel boss so that it makes contact on the gas cylinder further out. I don't reccomend rolling the barrel boss unless you are a fairly experienced "tuner" or an experienced metal worker. You want the rolled edge uniform all the way around the barrel.

My $.02

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed reply, i was lucky enough to have 2 new M305s to play around with, and interestingly enough, mix and matching parts between the 2 of them got both rifles real tight, without the use of any shims, so thats good!
 
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