red dot on sks

The eject brass his the receiver and bounces. It can easily hit a rear or front lens. The solution is to square out the ejection port, so the brass clears and flings to the side.

As for a mount, why not just screw a Weaver scope base to the ramp of the existing rear sight?

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Best red dot ever :) Glow in the dark nail polish. I put in on all my milsurps.

Last longer than any cheapo red dots...lol... ;)

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The eject brass his the receiver and bounces. It can easily hit a rear or front lens. The solution is to square out the ejection port, so the brass clears and flings to the side.

As for a mount, why not just screw a Weaver scope base to the ramp of the existing rear sight?

IMG_0042.jpg


IMG_00442.jpg

We need a new sub-forum:

"Ganderite's practical hacks for old milsurps."
 
The eject brass his the receiver and bounces. It can easily hit a rear or front lens. The solution is to square out the ejection port, so the brass clears and flings to the side.

As for a mount, why not just screw a Weaver scope base to the ramp of the existing rear sight?

IMG_0042.jpg


IMG_00442.jpg

Might want to put a slight radius on that. I could see a crack forming in the corner from the stress concentration you created.
 
The eject brass his the receiver and bounces. It can easily hit a rear or front lens. The solution is to square out the ejection port, so the brass clears and flings to the side.

As for a mount, why not just screw a Weaver scope base to the ramp of the existing rear sight?

I think there is something wrong with your SKS, it's obviously not ejecting properly, take it to a gunsmith who knows his stuff.

As for my rifles I don't need to make any adjustments, my BC Tactical mounts works perfectly with a TRS 25
 
I did the same squaring up as Ganderite, except I was also worried about the stress riser.
For that reason, I radiused the corner to just a bit less than the curvature of the casing.
The shell would never know the difference.
I'd say 80% of my brass(steel/whatever) lands at 45 degrees to the right about 8 feet away.
I think the vertical aft edge of the cutout actually consumes a lot more of the ejection energy than with the original angled edge.
Used to fling away a good 20 feet or so before, with some going forward and some 90 to the right.
Also, cut a bit of a shallow angle off the receiver rail where the shoulder of the case likes to hit on its lateral travel out.
That way, it doesn't get deflected up as much on its swing towards the vertical rear edge.
 
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