What's a good first handgun?

They look pretty sweet

I have a Ruger Mark III, and it's an accurate pistol (though not very hard to do when you have a fixed barrel), but the cheap, welded sheet metal grip frame is garbage, and it's a pain in the ass to take apart. The SW22 is one screw to disassemble, in contrast.
 
get a few, shoot them, and sell the ones that dont cut it?, my first was a CZ 75 B 9mm, love that pistol, have added a bunch of friends for it though, and recently purchased a glock G17 Gen 4, its a toss up which one is gonna stay, glock is lighter, easy take down, easy to shoot, CZ is super easy to tear down, and fun to shoot, i find the recoil to very mild with the CZ after a few hundred rounds, its all metal though as the glock is "plastic", CZ is hammer , Glock is striker, yada yada yada, they are all fun, cant go wrong with a 357 ruger GP100 aswell
 
Shoot as many as you can, the one that fits like a glove with cloverleaf holes is the one for you.
 
I have a Ruger Mark III, and it's an accurate pistol (though not very hard to do when you have a fixed barrel), but the cheap, welded sheet metal grip frame is garbage, and it's a pain in the ass to take apart. The SW22 is one screw to disassemble, in contrast.

Respectfully, I disagree. That sheet steel grip frame dates back to the original Ruger Standard Auto in 1949, and it isn't cheap at all.
It's very thick steel, carefully made, well-finished, and not the least likely to ever wear out.

In fact, today, with the wide acceptance of pistols made with polymer frames, and high quality and expensive centerfire pistols using stamped and welded frames and slides, it seems an odd criticism to me.

The Pre-1996 Sig-Sauer P226 used a slide assembly made from a heavy gauge steel stamping, with a welded-in breech section, and uses a lot of stamped internal parts even today. I hardly think that anyone would call a Sig-Sauer P226 "garbage".

And of course, the PPSH and AK47 all use(d) steel stampings in their receivers and action covers and were extremely well-made and very reliable firearms. And, lets face it, there are numerous other high-quality pistols that use stamped-steel technology. Heckler and Koch being just one example.

And, as far as the disassembly being difficult, that's debatable.

You drop the magazine and clear the pistol and drop the hammer.
You flip open the lever in the mainspring housing, tilt out the housing and pull it down and out.
You push the barrel/slide/bolt group forward off the frame.
You dump the bolt and recoil spring out the rear.
You're done, and no screws to unscrew, and no tools needed.

Look at some You-tube videos like "Ruger Mk. II & III - Diassembly/Reassembly EASY" and see for yourself.

The main thing, I think, is that it's an old school design, which in the jaundiced eyes of many younger shooters, makes it automatically crap. And, nothing could be further from the truth.
 
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I haven't been shooting pistols for very long either but the one suggestion I'd make from my personal experience would be to stay away from DA/SAs. I've always loved the P226 but getting used to the heavy DA trigger pull, then having to transition to the regular SA trigger pull was tough (at least for me). I find the trigger consistency of strikers much easier to get used to. I just wish they weren't all so homely looking...
 
Respectfully, I disagree. That sheet steel grip frame dates back to the original Ruger Standard Auto in 1949, and it isn't cheap at all.
It's very thick steel, carefully made, well-finished, and not the least likely to ever wear out.

It is cheap. The principle reason it was done was because it costed less to stamp and weld a frame than machine one out of a casting/forging/billet at the time of its conception. It's not even well-finished. The deburring was done on a belt sander, and to get the lower-to-upper fit, the assemblers just bash the upper with a ball-peen until it collapses the pocket enough to fit snugly with the lug in the front of the lower.

Of course it's not likely to wear out; it's just shooting .22. Provided you don't strip the threaded holes in the frame because the grip screws only engage one and a half turns.

In fact, today, with the wide acceptance of pistols made with polymer frames, and high quality and expensive centerfire pistols using stamped and welded frames and slides, it seems an odd criticism to me.

Examples?

The Pre-1996 Sig-Sauer P226 used a slide assembly made from a heavy gauge steel stamping, with a welded-in breech section, and uses a lot of stamped internal parts even today. I hardly think that anyone would call a Sig-Sauer P226 "garbage".

And of course, the PPSH and AK47 all use(d) steel stampings in their receivers and action covers and were extremely well-made and very reliable firearms. And, lets face it, there are numerous other high-quality pistols that use stamped-steel technology. Heckler and Koch being just one example.

I never said stamped guns were crap. However, that doesn't mean all stamped guns are good, either. Stamping was historically a cost- and material-saving technique compared to machining (in mass-production). You can do it well, or you can do it not so well.

It has gone the other way now, with automated machining and low material cost driving more things to be machined from solid.

And, as far as the disassembly being difficult, that's debatable.

You drop the magazine and clear the pistol and drop the hammer.
You flip open the lever in the mainspring housing, tilt out the housing and pull it down and out.
You push the barrel/slide/bolt group forward off the frame.
You dump the bolt and recoil spring out the rear.
You're done, and no screws to unscrew, and no tools needed.

Look at some You-tube videos like "Ruger Mk. II & III - Diassembly/Reassembly EASY" and see for yourself.

Yours obviously didn't require a drift and hammer to get out the first few times because the stamped hole in the frame didn't quite line up with the drilled hole in the upper.

The main thing, I think, is that it's an old school design, which in the jaundiced eyes of many younger shooters, makes it automatically crap. And, nothing could be further from the truth.

Wow, really? Them youngins dunno whats good for 'em, huh? I bought one because of its long history, but what I got left a lot to be desired.
 
I haven't been shooting pistols for very long either but the one suggestion I'd make from my personal experience would be to stay away from DA/SAs. I've always loved the P226 but getting used to the heavy DA trigger pull, then having to transition to the regular SA trigger pull was tough (at least for me). I find the trigger consistency of strikers much easier to get used to. I just wish they weren't all so homely looking...

I dunno. I think that it depends on what kind of shooting that you plan to do.

If you are into IPSC or combat style shooting, then perhaps your arguments are quite relevant and something to consider.

For best accuracy, something with a clean-breaking SA trigger pull is best IMHO.

Striker-fired guns have consistent trigger pulls, but the trigger pulls are long compared to a clean-breaking SA trigger pull on pistols with a conventional hammer-sear arrangement.
 
I haven't been shooting pistols for very long either but the one suggestion I'd make from my personal experience would be to stay away from DA/SAs. I've always loved the P226 but getting used to the heavy DA trigger pull, then having to transition to the regular SA trigger pull was tough (at least for me). I find the trigger consistency of strikers much easier to get used to. I just wish they weren't all so homely looking...

If you want to get into action shooting (IDPA, IPSC, etc.), it's worthwhile to learn how to work a DA/SA, since the trigger on DA/SA guns are generally better than their striker-fired counterparts.
 
It is cheap. The principle reason it was done was because it costed less to stamp and weld a frame than machine one out of a casting/forging/billet at the time of its conception. It's not even well-finished. The deburring was done on a belt sander, and to get the lower-to-upper fit, the assemblers just bash the upper with a ball-peen until it collapses the pocket enough to fit snugly with the lug in the front of the lower.

Of course it's not likely to wear out; it's just shooting .22. Provided you don't strip the threaded holes in the frame because the grip screws only engage one and a half turns.



Examples?



I never said stamped guns were crap. However, that doesn't mean all stamped guns are good, either. Stamping was historically a cost- and material-saving technique compared to machining (in mass-production). You can do it well, or you can do it not so well.

It has gone the other way now, with automated machining and low material cost driving more things to be machined from solid.



Yours obviously didn't require a drift and hammer to get out the first few times because the stamped hole in the frame didn't quite line up with the drilled hole in the upper.



Wow, really? Them youngins dunno whats good for 'em, huh? I bought one because of its long history, but what I got left a lot to be desired.

Your pistol must have been far different from mine. I never experienced any of the problems that you describe.
I always considered the Ruger built like a tank.
But if you feel that a sheet steel receiver is cheap, as you say, and that a CNC milled receiver is far better, as you say, then perhaps you should buy a .22 pistol with a milled steel receiver.
I certainly agree that milled steel beats a pressed steel receiver in terms of quality.
Also, the S&W 22 looks like a good pistol too.
 
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I have a Ruger Mark III, and it's an accurate pistol (though not very hard to do when you have a fixed barrel), but the cheap, welded sheet metal grip frame is garbage, and it's a pain in the ass to take apart. The SW22 is one screw to disassemble, in contrast.

With respect, you are the only person I've ever run across who claims the frame is garbage.

I own a Mk. 1, my brother owns a Mk.3, my neighbour owns a Standard. All are of superb quality, period.

OP: do not overlook the Ruger Mk. series because of this single poster. Millions of Ruger would owners disagree with him. And I recommend you look for a Mk.1 or a Standard, simply because they're often under-priced.

They are superb pistols, and are known for accuracy:



That was at 50 meters, 2 handed. I made up those targets and printed a bunch on standard 8.5" x 11" paper. No warmup, no practice, first attempt I got 10/10 on paper, and 8/10 in the black.

I was so surprised I put up another target and got the same result. That is my most accurate pistol, and I will never sell it.
 
Smith & Wesson M&P.
Glock.
HK VP9.
Walther PPQ.

I chose the 9mm because ammo is cheaper which equals more time actually shooting which is the most important thing. All of the above have there pros and cons. Go hold them and see which feels the best.
 
hk vp9 or hk45 / walther ppq

HK sfp-9 in Canada/Europe, same gun. Got one, very nice, accurate and easy to break down and clean. The ambidextrous controls rock too. Magazines are a bit pricey ($80/$90), but its an HK, I can deal with it.
 
Well lets see a 22 always a good idea learn the basics and shoot a lot without breaking the bank
i got the sig 1911 22
However you will crave some punch pretty fast so look into 9mm also
i got the Norc 226 copy and love it
also picked up beretta 92 fs close behind now this is a work of art my opinion but pricier
for kicks a norc 1911 for A few big caliber fun on a budget
if you have a outdoor range dont overlook the tt33 if you like milsurp
cheap ammo big boom
cheers
 
James, where is McLennan? If you are close to Calgary and can get here I will gladly take you to Shooting Edge as a guest. I have lots of free passes. If you have a RPAL we can try many different types and calibers, even 22, that way you get a good feel for everything. If you don't have RPAL then we can use mine 1 gun at a time. The gun rental is included in bullet prices. We used a 9mm and the rounds were about $22/50rds. Of course 40/45 are probably more $$. Anyway my offer to you.
 
I love my Walther PPX. Very easy to strip, reliable and very accurate. I bought the range kit at Flaherty's for around $500.
 
I was leaning towards a CZ, but ended up getting a really great deal on a used Beretta 92FS. Waiting on registration before I can go shoot it, but man is it ever a ###y gun. Especially for those of us who grew up on 90s action movies.

http://3.bp.########.com/-qFLGDN_nw18/Vd4N9DA15qI/AAAAAAAAC6s/kDrUHp9phGY/s1600/bruce%2Bwillis%2B1.jpg
 
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