Lee Enfield Jungle Carbine broken firing pin

cantom said:
You have a line on another firing pin?

Go for that...no harm done and your pin does seem kind of suspect.

Lee Enfields are usually incredibly reliable...something is out of spec.

Member Gairlochian sells Enfield tools including firing pin tools for reasonable. He's in Nova Scotia and you can send him a pmail.

BTW, one thing to check is the safety timing. Try removing it completely with the 1 screw and see if that makes a difference.
The little spinner can go on in about 3 spots and only one is right.
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I've never even heard of safety timing before, but then again I'm pretty green with enfields so I'll take a look into that. I was wondering if the trigger mechanism was causing the problem but the rifle still seems to function fine aside from the whole not striking the primer thing.

I'm going to try to make a tool out of a socket at work tomorrow, if that fails I'll send him a message

Thanks!
 
Stripes said:
Did you have the same problem with the rifle failing to fire completely as well? If your pin looks just like mine I'm wondering if the pin isn't to blame at all and there's some other issue.

The plot thickens
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The only problem I had was with piercing. It was with low pressure cast loads that run about 30,000 psi. Also happened with 2 S&B 180grn FMJ. The problem was short lived, haven't had any issues since. I don't have any explanation, my rifle is all matching and in excellent condition.
 
5THBATT said:
You would have to get a new firing pin any ways as you cannot simply adjust the protrusion by winding out the pin, you would have to remove material from the base of the bolthead as the travel of the pin is checked by the collar striking the base of the bolthead & not the cocking piece hitting the rear of the bolt body, you will need to check for a small gap between the cocking piece & body when reassembled as well as correct protrusion

MkVIfour.jpg
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dam that is ###y.....
 
Well of course I missed the delivery of my firing pin today! Hopefully I'll make it to the post office tomorrow before they close to pick it up. Picked up a new spring and some other spare parts as well since he who hoards the most parts wins (you guys should see my garage). It's kind of funny that it's easier to find the part than it is to find the tool to replace the part!

Going to finish up my socket/firing pin removal tool and hopefully attempt shooting this thing this weekend. If I do make it out I'll be sure to post some results, hopefully all goes well.

Thanks again for all the help and advice guys
 
Well - your current firing pin appears to be poorly radiussed and "blunted". Easily corrected with a piece of emery cloth laying on a flat surface. FWIW - I would try to correct the issue with the existing pin - its a lot less work, particularly if you've got the requisite free space as shown in the photo above, and the protrusion is correct.
Bear in mind, if the new pin protrudes excessively - your going to need the emery cloth or a new bolt head that can retain the pin better.
 
cosmic said:
Well - your current firing pin appears to be poorly radiussed and "blunted". Easily corrected with a piece of emery cloth laying on a flat surface. FWIW - I would try to correct the issue with the existing pin - its a lot less work, particularly if you've got the requisite free space as shown in the photo above, and the protrusion is correct.
Bear in mind, if the new pin protrudes excessively - your going to need the emery cloth or a new bolt head that can retain the pin better.
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I'll give that a shot! If I can save the original parts I'll do so since the rifle is all numbers matching. I'll use the new pin as a reference for how much material to take off.

I was worried that I might need a new bolt head so I ordered one as well (with the correct number)
 
Hey gentlemen long time without an update. I've been busy so the rifle got put on the back burner.

I did some homework and found out that my bolt head was totally over clocked. I don't know if that was the cause of my problem but I managed to get a couple of bolt heads for free so I figured I might as well replace it.

My original bolt head measured out at 0.631in. The next closest one I've got measures at 0.633in and it threads in pretty much flush. I know this change is going to affect pin protrusion but will it cause any headspace issues as well?

This has been a real learn as I go operation
 
Stripes said:
Hey gentlemen long time without an update. I've been busy so the rifle got put on the back burner.

I did some homework and found out that my bolt head was totally over clocked. I don't know if that was the cause of my problem but I managed to get a couple of bolt heads for free so I figured I might as well replace it.

My original bolt head measured out at 0.631in. The next closest one I've got measures at 0.633in and it threads in pretty much flush. I know this change is going to affect pin protrusion but will it cause any headspace issues as well?

This has been a real learn as I go operation
Click to expand...

Stripes

The Canadian No.4 manual due to the age and lack of "new" spare parts for the Enfield rifle has more relaxed standards than older British manuals. Example a special "spanner wrench" that fit around the bolt head was used when fitting new bolt heads. The bolt head was to be a snug fit at first and not align with the longer right locking lug with just finger pressure. The bolt head was then worked back and forth and working the two mating surfaces together until the bolt head aligned with the right locking lug. This was done to ensure the bolt head did not over rotate after firing a few hundred rounds and had seated to the mating surface of the bolt.

The older British manuals did not have a measurement for the "air space" between the rear of the bolt and the cocking piece. The British used "bolt head timing" and looking from the rear of the bolt the rear of the bolt the "clock position was used. The bolt head was to contact the collar of the firing pin at the approximate 3:00 position and rotate to the 12:00 position and not over rotate. Material was removed from the front of the firing pin collar to achieve proper adjustment. If I remember correctly the Canadian manual measurement method allows the bolt head to contact the collar of the firing pin from the 5:00 to the 2:00 position.

Bottom line, material was "never" removed from the rear of the bolt head and only the collar on the firing pin had material removed.

NOTE: New Enfield rifles were "proof tested" and after proofing if the headspace increased over .003 the rifle failed proof testing. Meaning either excessive bolt lug setback or bolt head seating caused the increase in headspace. So double check you bolt head for over rotation after break in and periodically to make sure you do not have over rotation which make the threads take the pounding and not the two mating surfaces. Also some competition Enfield rifles had two bolt heads fitted to compensate for variations in rim thickness. This had to do with the action flexing when fired and lateral POI shifts or movement.

The first bolt head I fitted I used just finger pressure for fitting and aligning with the locking lug and the bolt head over rotated after firing 100 rounds. Your .002 longer bolt head should decrease headspace by that amount and should not be a problem. Headspace gauges help when fitting new bolt heads, but the rims are thinner on American SAAMI cases and thicker on military and some brands of cases. Meaning the bolt face should not be touching the rear of the case and have slight clearance for smooth bolt operation. If you reload and neck size you will feel resistance closing the bolt and the rear of the locking lugs should have grease applied to prevent bolt lug wear.
 
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