why hasn't anyone come up with a screw replacement ejector for 870 ?

madashell

BANNED
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
BANNED
Rating - 100%
204   0   0
why hasn't anyone come up with a screw replacement ejector for 870 ?

Some kind of after market thing to make it more easily user serviceable than staking ...

Gotta be a way.
 
why hasn't anyone come up with a screw replacement ejector for 870 ?

Some kind of after market thing to make it more easily user serviceable than staking ...

Gotta be a way.

If I was to guess the "failure" rate of a Remington ejector is directly proportional to how many Mossberg vs. Remington articles one reads.
5 Remingtons -35+ years and not one failure to eject.

L
 
If I was to guess the "failure" rate of a Remington ejector is directly proportional to how many Mossberg vs. Remington articles one reads.
5 Remingtons -35+ years and not one failure to eject.

L

probably because they are older ones. i had a new one that failed to eject non stop. didnt matter what i put in it. i found a youtube video (through CGN) on how to hone the chamber. Did that and it worked fine, shouldnt have had to work on a brand new gun IMO.
 
probably because they are older ones. i had a new one that failed to eject non stop. didnt matter what i put in it. i found a youtube video (through CGN) on how to hone the chamber. Did that and it worked fine, shouldnt have had to work on a brand new gun IMO.

Agree with you crash277, a simple chamber polishing should be done at factory.

However, I'm only referring to the ejector spring system.
 
If I was to guess the "failure" rate of a Remington ejector is directly proportional to how many Mossberg vs. Remington articles one reads.
5 Remingtons -35+ years and not one failure to eject.

L


I have no ejector issues either but I like the Mossberg swap it out yourself with a screw-driver ejector setup.

Wondering why no one has attempted an after-market setup for the 870 if you did require a new one.
 
I almost always just need the spring itself and just use the rivet turning tool and re use the original rivet.
 
If you need to change the rivet, you need to refinish the gun, best to try the rivet cutter first, and if it doesn't work then do the actual rivet
 
Because doing it right the first time is about a 5 minute job. screws tend to work loose

But, you need the right staking tools though right?

And this affects the finish on the left side of the receiver, as the whole thing is polished and blued, parkerized etc. as a unit.

I agree with the OP, there should be an easy way to do this that doesn't involve ordering some expensive (by the time you get them) special tools that you probably won't use again.
 
I had one break on a beautiful Wingmaster, happened around 1990. The gunsmith who fixed it in Swift Current did the "drill a hole through the receiver rivet fix" that completely ruined the appearance, and value, of the gun. As I was young I sucked it up and slunk out, after paying him to wreck it. The issue I had with it was; I was not told that was the method of repair, nor was the job done with any kind of care. It was sloppy and the gun was full of scars and scratches. Needless to say I quickly traded the gun off on a S&W 422.
 
The ejector spring will wear down at the indent tip that drags on the bolt, when it's worn too much to a flat the spring loses structural integrity and it will suddenly catch/bend/break/seize the gun on a single racking stroke. Depending on the bolt's surface finish/roughness, that wear may take forever or it may take only a few thousand rounds. The bolt's surface finishes on express models is VERY abrasive. I figured out that the best way to prevent the spring breakage is to sand down and polish to a mirror finish the ejector spring channel on the bolt to stop any wear that may be occuring on the spring.

I don't have a wingmaster, but I suspect they have a pretty slick bolt with a mirror finish already, hence the lower rate of ejector spring breakages.

The usual "re-use the rivet" method is a bandaid fix at best to a known design flaw, and the Brownells tools are absolute ####, they almost always crack, preventing you from finishing the job. The smartest way is to file the rivet head flat, drill (without coming out the other side) and tap a hole for a screw that is appropriately sized to the ejector spring hole, and hold that spring with a locktited screw. Obviously, that takes skill, know-how and appropriate tools.

Remington should have revisited that stupid rivet a long time ago.

A lot of people who's spring broke simply end up cutting the bent spring and leave the rest of it riveted in the ejector, and use their 870 without it, as most 870's will eject just fine without the spring due to the design of the ejector.
 
Last edited:
probably because they are older ones. i had a new one that failed to eject non stop. didnt matter what i put in it. i found a youtube video (through CGN) on how to hone the chamber. Did that and it worked fine, shouldnt have had to work on a brand new gun IMO.

That is the failure to extract, not eject.
 
fair enough.

I gotta purchase the ejector tool set from Brownells just to have on hand. Never know when you might need it.

Using a 1/8 punch will work just as well, using a circular motion/direction to peen over the rivet. If you end up doing it yourself, make sure to support the receiver on something solid so it doesn't bounce when you are peening the rivet. A piece of tape will keep the rivets in place for ya. Unfortunately removing the rivet(s) will requires re-finishing the receiver, and the best way is using a surface grinder, unless your patient and a master with a file.
 
Back
Top Bottom