Huge misunderstanding RE - ammo for a Cartridge/Calibre? sticky time
- Thread starter WhelanLad
- Start date
pete dobinson
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Courtenay BC.
When I got my Kimber Montana 7mm wsm I bought a box of Winchester supreme ammunition. I shot about half of the box, the other half wouldn't chamber or was very tight when I tried to close the bolt. When I got home I pulled the bullets and resized the brass through my dye. They chambered fine after that. All I shoot through it is reloads now.
I usually try a few different weights of factory ammo in a new gun so I don't have to buy a bunch of projectiles the gun doesn't like. Plus the warranty thing which recently worked in my favour when a gun malfunctioned using sako ammo.
Bustercluck
CGN Regular
- Location
- Fort McMurray
The actual bullet used in the factory ammo and its weight are what I consider most. I personally only shoot Barnes ttsx or nosler partition and I try and shoot the heaviest bullet that still maintains a rather flat trajectory. I don't go with a smaller bullet just because I'm after smaller game. If it takes down a moose or a bear it'll take down a deer. I hand load for the stuff I shoot a lot of and buy factory for the stuff that doesn't see much use.
nowarningshot
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Interesting thread. Really three threads.
What is a good combination of Rifle.....manufacture and model and factory ammo?
Define accuracy. Is it MOA, Minute of Deer, or fraction of inches that determines to Benchrest shooters that a barrel is "shot out"?
What are good handloads for my rifle?
Each one of these questions is answered correctly by each poster, in their own terms. I would not dream of posting my loads, simply because they may be good/safe with my rifle but not for a reader. Obvious example is Trapdoor 45-70's and Early mausers.
Personally i try and limit myself in numbers of reloader only calibers. Many commonly reached for rifles are in Walmart calibers, shoot cheap factory, usually very well. When one has choices, does it matter if you can push 300wm to 300wea performance......when one can instead just reach for a 300 wea.
What is a good combination of Rifle.....manufacture and model and factory ammo?
Define accuracy. Is it MOA, Minute of Deer, or fraction of inches that determines to Benchrest shooters that a barrel is "shot out"?
What are good handloads for my rifle?
Each one of these questions is answered correctly by each poster, in their own terms. I would not dream of posting my loads, simply because they may be good/safe with my rifle but not for a reader. Obvious example is Trapdoor 45-70's and Early mausers.
Personally i try and limit myself in numbers of reloader only calibers. Many commonly reached for rifles are in Walmart calibers, shoot cheap factory, usually very well. When one has choices, does it matter if you can push 300wm to 300wea performance......when one can instead just reach for a 300 wea.
pete dobinson
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Courtenay BC.
I like it, it shoots well. I used it to hunt Mule Deer out in the Chilcotin. I liked it so much I bought another Kimber, a Mountain Ascent chambered in 270 win. Now the montana spends more time in the safe. For hiking around, Kimber are hard to beat imho.a 7wsm in Montana ay, 8400 - how do you like it? my montanas big brother
pete dobinson
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Courtenay BC.
ah I see, I don't think I seen your hunt report on the muleys in the chilcotin ?
Yes Whelanlad, I guess I should do a report, I've seen plenty of yours and I see you've done well. I don't post much so you'll have to bare with me.
Every gun is different and the BEST ammo for a particular gun is impossible to know without testing
But
Some ammo is just sooo bad, sooo awful and just something that you never ever want to put into any gun, ever (Thinking of you, white box Win 22lr...)
Some ammo is good, but can't cycle certain semi-autos worth a darn - for example don't use challenger extra light 7/8 oz low recoil loads in something like a Browning A5, it just won't cycle.
So I think the best question would be "which ammo isn't worth even trying in this particular firearm" after that, it's all trial and error at the range
But
Some ammo is just sooo bad, sooo awful and just something that you never ever want to put into any gun, ever (Thinking of you, white box Win 22lr...)
Some ammo is good, but can't cycle certain semi-autos worth a darn - for example don't use challenger extra light 7/8 oz low recoil loads in something like a Browning A5, it just won't cycle.
So I think the best question would be "which ammo isn't worth even trying in this particular firearm" after that, it's all trial and error at the range
