9mm handgun cleaning kit

Weapon Shield Solvent and CLP, Tipton Carbon Fibre cleaning rod, bronze and nylon brushes, brass jags and patches. No prepackaged kits, just a selection of high quality tools.
 
Wester said:
Weapon Shield Solvent and CLP, Tipton Carbon Fibre cleaning rod, bronze and nylon brushes, brass jags and patches. No prepackaged kits, just a selection of high quality tools.
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^These sort of tools.......... I usually just use G96 but will start with a little Bore Venom solvent is it's really dirty.
 
g96 to clean, m-pro7 to lube, otis cleaning system.

im on my last can of g96 and havent seen any around in a while so i picked up a couple cans of ballistol to try next.
 
No kits. A solid one piece rod. I just use a bronze brush. A new one for scrubbing and an old one that I use to hold a patch. A carbon solvent and g96. A small Tupperware to hold it all and I use the Tupperware to put all the parts in and give a good blast of g96.
 
I first blast the internals with brake cleaner. I catch the dripping son a paper towel. When it starts to come out clean, I stop spraying.

Internals are then sprayed with One Shot or G96.

Barrel is usually just 4 passes of a bronze brush. If it is really bad, A shot of Wipe Out and a soak for awhile.
 
Field strip and clean from the chamber end.

Generally I don't use a bronze brush unless I see signs of excessive leading on the first patch or two. And of course that only happens if I've been shooting cast bullets. But I seldom do that so mostly it's just the jag and a couple of patches to clean out the fouling using a bore solvent.

For the solvent I was given a BIG bottle of Hoppes a few years ago. Still working my way down. CLP oils will work but a proper solvent works a little faster and with less patches being needed. So I tend to prefer separate solvent and oil steps.

For flushing out the action and mag well brake cleaner works like a charm. But it also strips away the corrosion resisting oils. But a can of spray oil leaves the surfaces overly oiled and sloppy. So I'm a fan of the easily made up Ed's Red (google for recipe) soup that is mostly solvents with a little oil in it. Hosing the insides down with this cleans away the fouling and after it drips down and the solvents evaporate a light film of ATF is left to protect against corrosion and give a little lubrication to any spots that you missed.

With either option remove the grips to avoid exposing the rubber, plastic or wood to the strong solvents of any sort.
 
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