Is pure lead okay in a pistol if it is powder coated?

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I am seriously considering casting 147 grain 9mm to shoot in my Glock 17 and CZ Shadow.
IPSC and practice used over 10,000 rounds of plated Campro in 1 year and I really want to save some cash and shoot just as much.

Someone has offered me 100 pound of pure lead.
Does anyone know if powder coated pure lead shoots just as clean and accurate as plated? Velocity is not high. Under 1000 fps.

I have Wheel weight ingots as well but It would be nice if I could use up the pure stuff and not worry about the alloy.

Thanks.
 
find some pewter items or mix in 2-4 pounds of 95/5 solder to get some tin in there to help with the casting process. i don't shoot pure but close to it through my low velocity pistol calibres.
 
It'll cast fine enough for practice ammo, but aiming for 1-2% tin would really help. Powder coated would be a good choice. Weigh your bullet, the 147 could be as much as 5% heavier.
 
I am seriously considering casting 147 grain 9mm to shoot in my Glock 17 and CZ Shadow.
IPSC and practice used over 10,000 rounds of plated Campro in 1 year and I really want to save some cash and shoot just as much.

Someone has offered me 100 pound of pure lead.
Does anyone know if powder coated pure lead shoots just as clean and accurate as plated? Velocity is not high. Under 1000 fps.

I have Wheel weight ingots as well but It would be nice if I could use up the pure stuff and not worry about the alloy.
Thanks.

In your case ,from what your stated usage is going to be, for best reults, I would suggest that you do worry about the alloy just a bit but don't get anal over it. I would suggest that you get a lead hardness tester (inexpensive Lee I think is around $80) and add a little of your WW ingots to your lead in a controlled manner. The "hardness #" isn't going to be important (probably a # of around 9-10 will be attainable with a bit of WW added) other than being able to ascertain a constant hardness. Adding a bit of WW to your pure lead will very much improve the "moldability" of your melt, assuring a better consistent bullet weight .

This "alloying" might sound a bit intimidating to a rookie melter but it actually isn't. Once you have the "formula" figured out after a couple of melts it's just a case of continuing the same rituals time after time...no different than pouring powder the first few times until you get the hang of it and stick to the same load time after time. The extra time it takes for the first couple of pours will be very much off-set by the amount of time saved by making good boolits instead of redoing "rejects".
 
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Thanks for the advice everyone. Very much appreciated.
I can borrow a hardness tester and may experiment with something like 4 pounds pure lead with 1 pound wheel weight and see what happens.
The painted bullet idea seems like something fun to try too.

Until I buy a 147 grain rnfp mould I will probably do up some coated cast for .357
 
IMO, If you have WW ingots already, I would personally run a 1-1 mix water dropped, powder coated and leave unsized if it passes the plunk test.
 
Use your ww lead for your bullets and trade the soft lead to a muzzle loader fan for more ww lead. I am by no means a pro at casting but I have made and shot many thousand projectiles in ,44, .45 .357. I use the soft lead for my .577 snider and a 50/50 mix for the 577/450 martini.
 
The problem with casting pure lead is that it doesn't fill out the mold well, and this depends on the mold to some extent as well. The more nooks and crannies a mold has, the harder it is to make it fill out well. Short, fat cavities fill better than long thin cavities. Pistol bullets normally fill out better than rifle bullets, everything else being equal. If fill-out is less than perfect then weight variations start to occur. If you're shooting pistols at 10 yds this might not be a problem. Depends on how accurate you need to be.

Adding a couple feet of 95/5 solder to each pot will improve fillout remarkably. Running with higher temperature also improves the mold fill, but slows down the casting process at the same time.

Lots of guys in the US are powder coating pure or almost pure lead bullets and getting good performance at modern pistol velocity. But the powder coating process adds a lot time and effort as well.
 
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Wester metals has tin and antimony at $29.00 and $19.00 lb respectively

Just go to your local Value Village or Salvation Army store and pick up anything with the PEWTER triangle on the bottom. Pewter is at least 95% Tin. There may be some other stuff in it like lead and antimony. Google it for yourself.

I pick it up at those stores, second hand stores and yard sales for an average of $1/pound. I have close to 300 pounds of it collected in a barrel in less than a year.
 
I cast a fair amount of PL, when the urge comes upon me. 38-55 and 41 LC HB are the main ones as the rifles bore is badly worn and the 41 starts it's journey at .385...ends at around .410. Lead works marvelous for this, but...I find lubing to be a pain. Can it really be as easy as hitting them with a spray bomb?
As a thread stealer (owning up anyhow ), latest 'casting only' rifle is a Marlin pump in 32-20. No real luck on it, it flings about 1 in 5 like a Monkey throwing poop....this with Bullet Barn 32-20 fodder at .312.
How much size difference does coating the bullets make? The Marlins are noted for having a generous bore. I'd rather go with a PL that obturates to the bore than the sizing ritual. Just saying...my time allotment isn't able to handle one more step in the process...running them through a sizer.
 
I cast a fair amount of PL, when the urge comes upon me. 38-55 and 41 LC HB are the main ones as the rifles bore is badly worn and the 41 starts it's journey at .385...ends at around .410. Lead works marvelous for this, but...I find lubing to be a pain. Can it really be as easy as hitting them with a spray bomb?
As a thread stealer (owning up anyhow ), latest 'casting only' rifle is a Marlin pump in 32-20. No real luck on it, it flings about 1 in 5 like a Monkey throwing poop....this with Bullet Barn 32-20 fodder at .312.
How much size difference does coating the bullets make? The Marlins are noted for having a generous bore. I'd rather go with a PL that obturates to the bore than the sizing ritual. Just saying...my time allotment isn't able to handle one more step in the process...running them through a sizer.

A buddy of mine put me on this "alternative coatings" idea a couple of years ago (thanks Auggie) so I have spent hours reading others experiences and more than a few hrs of my own testing.

The spray bomb paint thing has been mentioned a few times in some of my reading but it never really gained much traction. A couple of times it was mentioned that it "works" somewhat adequately in handgun length barrels, but even some handguns will lead up towards the end of the barrel. The problem is that the paint is very thin and brittle on a bullet and won't retain "coverage" for the full barrel travel, especially in a rifle barrel.

The PC coating, on the other hand, is very resilient and sticks like sh!t to a blanket if cooked properly. To answer your second question...PC coatings can be varied from around 1.5 thou and upwards with additional coatings. I have personally bumped up 230 gr hard cast .452 pistol bullets to .460 (3 coats) and then sized them to .459 and used them with outstanding results in a 45-70 that never before was a "tack driver" but will now shoot under 1 inch with them. The PCing may be just the ticket for your 32-20.

Timewise, PC'ing does have a learning curve that takes up a bit of time but, like all re-loading operations, once you get the hang of it, it doesn't use a lot of time at all. I can do 30 or 40 at a time in my setup and altho it takes 25 min or so to do a batch, I only use about 5 min to mix/coat and set on the tray for baking and once I hit the "20 min cook" dial I go do something else useful.

My "come away" with PCing is that it removes almost all the different alloy concerns and different messy lube concoctions (excepting BP cartridges, they still require a grease cookie or similar to soften the fowling) that each rifle seems to have their own preferences for...cast-PC-load and shoot.
 
You can use pure lead at speeds under 1000 fps i was shooting 950fps with no lube even. Ive shot lots of pure lead in one of my lee enfields (probably 1000 rounds now) no issues as long as the bullet is about 0.003" bigger needed. I cast .315- .316 for my lee enfield, leading isnt an issue indo clean the bore after every trip out though, when i was loading .310" leadding was a major problem after even 30 rounds on the nose riding bullets. Pure lead is soft. Let it fit its self to the bore.

I was also using bullets with no lube groves, upwards of 16mm bearing surfaces on the heavy rounds.

And yes pure lead doesnt cast well. I ended up adding a few inches of 50/50 solder and see major differences in a 3 pound pot.

it is soft, im not sure how marked up it will get when driven from a mag into the chamber, i loaded mine one at a time where it is a bolt action because of that, that may not be fun depending the the pistol

EDIT, i realize this is the internet so 'pics of it or didn't happen'


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