What revolvers should I look in to?

I LOVE my Ruger guns, and the GP100 Stainless is right up at the top of the list, awesome gun, and honestly, built like a tank, not unlike the Super Redhawk 44 Mag. which should be marketed as a TANK, LOL
 
Price range? I've got an R8. Good revolver. I'd trade up for a V-Comp. I'd trade that up for a Korth.

That's quite the escalation in price. I've yet to see a R8 in person and don't plan on dropping the dineros on something like that until I do. I'll be keeping my eye out. The PC 627 I fondled was fantastic so I have pretty high hopes for the feel of the M&P revolvers. Plus eight shots sounds like a great time.
 
Not to hijack the thread, but which frame shape is the most durable???

Seems there are a lot of complaints on CGN as well as the net in general about S&W manufacturing pretty crappy revolvers the past 6 years.

Also, do all S&W revolver models come with the inner locking mechanism? Seems some guys are having issues where they shoot 3-4 rounds from the gun and the shock from the discharge is triggering the locking mechanism inadvertently causing the trigger to lock! Then you need to take the key and unlock the trigger lock to continue firing before it subsequently locks again.
 
I like the S&W 357's, they look and feel good. Its too bad that you missed the sale at Cabelas back in August. They had some good prices on them.
 
I also prefer the vintage S&W N & L frame (M27,M627, M586, M686) for a steady diet of magnums. All Rugers I had also went... Just like the handling characteristics of the S&W's better, that's a personal opinion tho. Owned a few K framed (M19-M66's) S&W's but they weren't up to the task of digesting a steady diet of hot 125gr magnums, the fragile and thin forcing cone and top strap showed unwanted flame cutting wear that would definitely hurt the revolver in the long haul.

If you can find an early 80's M586-M686 with the rarer low patridge front sight which is the better sight for target use or even better a late 70's M27-2 with the factory target package, that's what I would get.
 
Not to hijack the thread, but which frame shape is the most durable???

Seems there are a lot of complaints on CGN as well as the net in general about S&W manufacturing pretty crappy revolvers the past 6 years.

Also, do all S&W revolver models come with the inner locking mechanism? Seems some guys are having issues where they shoot 3-4 rounds from the gun and the shock from the discharge is triggering the locking mechanism inadvertently causing the trigger to lock! Then you need to take the key and unlock the trigger lock to continue firing before it subsequently locks again.

The lock is easily disabled if you need to go that route and the QC issues were mainly on the later 686/586. I have owned two 66-8 and they have been fantastic! I sold my first and regretted it, so I bought a second lol.
 
I have a S&W 686 4.2inch barrel for 3 years now it's not bad, but my
Chiappa white rhino 60ds is the best for quality and it fits like a glove
in my hands. Check it out!
 
DSCN1517.jpg
 
Here's one you may never have heard of -- Sarsilmaz SR38. Bulls Eye, in London, Ontario, has one in stock for $630. (I had never heard of either Sarsilmaz or Bulls Eye until a few days ago when they advertised a S&W sale.) This is what I've learned so far:

Sarsilmaz is a Turkish manufacturer, the third largest in Europe. They have been in business over a century and provide firearms to the Turkish Army -- the second largest army in NATO. Their automatics are CZ75 clones and variations thereof but they began selling a copy of the S&W 586 three or four years ago. Instead of that lovely blue finish we all admire, SR38s are finished in matte black. It makes me wonder if they are Parkerized. The only review I've found was from a Shot Show (2013 or 2014?) where the reviewer stated that the new revolver's trigger was slightly better than those of Smiths in the next booth.

Bull's Eye address is bullseyelondon.com. It's an hour's drive from here and I will check it out the next time I go to Reliks to buy a sword.

You could also check out Alfa Project for ~$560. Reviews on them all come up saying good value for the money.
 
Not to hijack the thread, but which frame shape is the most durable???

The N frame is better for a steady diet of magnum loads. The K frames (Model 13, Model 19) were never up to the task and are better suited to .38 Special; they are still very good revolvers, mind.

Also, do all S&W revolver models come with the inner locking mechanism? Seems some guys are having issues where they shoot 3-4 rounds from the gun and the shock from the discharge is triggering the locking mechanism inadvertently causing the trigger to lock! Then you need to take the key and unlock the trigger lock to continue firing before it subsequently locks again.

The internal lock was introduced in 2000 and is on almost all models (the only exceptions are the 640 CT and M&P340 CT snub nose .38s).

From what I've heard, those issues only crop up in large bore magnums such as .44 Magnum, .460 S&W and .500 S&W, made of lightweight materials such as scandium and with short barrels.

Very nice..

Yes, except for the "READ INSTRUCTION MANUAL" stamped on the barrel.
 
I don't know a single person who's happy with their TR8...well, stock. Springs have all been dialed back, and they tend to end up with a ton of light strikes.

For the cash that you'd pay for one, go for the best and get a Manurhin.

If not, stick with the sure things. Smith 586/686, or a GP100....though I find that the QC on Smith these past 5 years have been spotty.
 
Not to hijack the thread, but which frame shape is the most durable???

Seems there are a lot of complaints on CGN as well as the net in general about S&W manufacturing pretty crappy revolvers the past 6 years.

Also, do all S&W revolver models come with the inner locking mechanism? Seems some guys are having issues where they shoot 3-4 rounds from the gun and the shock from the discharge is triggering the locking mechanism inadvertently causing the trigger to lock! Then you need to take the key and unlock the trigger lock to continue firing before it subsequently locks again.

My experiences have been rather mixed :rolleyes: but in over 15,000 rounds and 2 different guns using .44mag loads ranging from starting level to maximum, never not once has the internal lock ever re-engaged.
 
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