I had no idea it was both super easy, and could make such an enormous difference!!
Every sks I've owned has had a terrible trigger. And my most recent one is no different. About 3 and a half kilometres of gritty creep, so bad I had no idea when or where it was gonna finally break. So I took to YouTube and found the video posted below. It's an excellent walk through for anyone who wants to do some work to their trigger.
I first discovered I had a pretty serious case of negative sear engagement. So I used fine files and finished with 600 grit wet dry to recontour the sear to a light positive engagement and smoothed it up, along with the engagement area on the hammer itself. Then I removed as much creep as I thought I could get away with by removing some of the face of the sear a little at a time. It now safely passes the bump test but the creep is all but gone and hardly noticeable. I also had to cut the disconnect arm a little to keep it functioning as the positive engagement removal made so it was just barely catching.
Lastly, I installed an over travel screw. I had a couple option with how to proceed. I was either going to use a small grub screw in the rear of the trigger bar just below the trigger spring (this would be unnoticeable on the assembled rifle), or a straight set screw behind the trigger threaded into the guard. For the sake of simplicity I went with option 2.
What... A... Difference!!! It now breaks SUPER clean at about 3 pounds, extremely little creep, and almost zero over travel. It's now one of the best triggers I've EVER felt on an sks. Ever.
I'm one happy shooter!
Cheers


[youtube]KMSEWSDeprQ[/youtube]
Every sks I've owned has had a terrible trigger. And my most recent one is no different. About 3 and a half kilometres of gritty creep, so bad I had no idea when or where it was gonna finally break. So I took to YouTube and found the video posted below. It's an excellent walk through for anyone who wants to do some work to their trigger.
I first discovered I had a pretty serious case of negative sear engagement. So I used fine files and finished with 600 grit wet dry to recontour the sear to a light positive engagement and smoothed it up, along with the engagement area on the hammer itself. Then I removed as much creep as I thought I could get away with by removing some of the face of the sear a little at a time. It now safely passes the bump test but the creep is all but gone and hardly noticeable. I also had to cut the disconnect arm a little to keep it functioning as the positive engagement removal made so it was just barely catching.
Lastly, I installed an over travel screw. I had a couple option with how to proceed. I was either going to use a small grub screw in the rear of the trigger bar just below the trigger spring (this would be unnoticeable on the assembled rifle), or a straight set screw behind the trigger threaded into the guard. For the sake of simplicity I went with option 2.
What... A... Difference!!! It now breaks SUPER clean at about 3 pounds, extremely little creep, and almost zero over travel. It's now one of the best triggers I've EVER felt on an sks. Ever.
I'm one happy shooter!
Cheers


[youtube]KMSEWSDeprQ[/youtube]
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