M305 Bent Operating Rod

durtyhairy

durtyhairy

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Hello Fellow CGN'ers,

I have had my M305 (never shot) on the shelf for a while, missing some parts but decided it was time to build the rifle and start shooting it.
I ran into some issues when removing the flash hider and my front sight literally fell off (epoxied on?)

Anyways, I went and bought myself a new front site (NM) and a gas lock front sight from Barry at bits of pieces and put it together. After field stripping it, cleaning it and lubricating it, I noticed where the op rod meets the gas cylinder is way off to the side. I checked it and the Op-Rod is totally dog c**ked to the right.

1) Just wondering how this will effect the shooting accuracy and function of the rifle when I go to fire it. I imagine it definitely wont help. Would buying a new Op-Rod be the best thing to do?

2) I also installed a CASM mount and looking for suggestions on a Scope that's not too expensive but will shoot as good as the gun will! I was thinking something in the 3-9x range

3) Last but not least. I ruined the stock flash suppressor when removing it. I was wanting something that looked like a vortex, but my real question is, what are my FS/MB options for the weird castle nut threads that are used on the Chicom barrels. I read on here that the castle nuts on USGI and Norc are close enough to work, so with that said will any m14 MB fit on a Norinco barrel? I haven't found much info on this. Hoping I dont have to buy another Norc FS.

I'm not really wanting to spend crazy amounts of money on this relatively cheap rifle just yet, so cost effective ways to help these problems is what I'm seeking atm.
I have attached some pics for attention and to better understand how bad the OP-Rod is.

Looking forward to hearing some expert advice on the subject!

Thanks

Kyle
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I'm having a brain fart on the op rod, but...

2) Look into the Bushnell 3200 Tactical 10x, I've got one on mine and they usually run about $250. Mildot reticle and holds up to recoil from .50 BMG.

3) You...CAN torque a Vortex flashhider onto the Norc barrel, but that would be the last thing you put on their because you'll mash the threads. Norc's are metric while USGI is imperial thread.
What I'd suggest is tracking down a Norinco castle nut (or maybe you didn't wreck the one that came off yours) and then you can install any FH that installs like a regular M14 FH. It'll look funny with nothing on the front sight dovetail, but it's reversible.
 
It looks like a barrel that is out of index coupled with an unpeened op rod guide. Try adjusting the index on the guide then peening and loctite on the guide to see if that improves things at all.
 
zuke said:
Did you buy it new or used?
Click to expand...

Got it from someone on the forum who allegedly never fired it, and after breaking it apart I can almost verify it was never shot, no carbon, next to zero wear on the sliding parts etc etc.

lerch641 said:
I'm having a brain fart on the op rod, but...

2) Look into the Bushnell 3200 Tactical 10x, I've got one on mine and they usually run about $250. Mildot reticle and holds up to recoil from .50 BMG.

3) You...CAN torque a Vortex flashhider onto the Norc barrel, but that would be the last thing you put on their because you'll mash the threads. Norc's are metric while USGI is imperial thread.
What I'd suggest is tracking down a Norinco castle nut (or maybe you didn't wreck the one that came off yours) and then you can install any FH that installs like a regular M14 FH. It'll look funny with nothing on the front sight dovetail, but it's reversible.
Click to expand...

So pretty much end up goobering it on for life... Yeah I think I like the idea of putting the traditional type back on with a castle nut so at least I can take it off when the need arises. I will look into those scopes. Thanks for the heads up.

Turkinator said:
It looks like a barrel that is out of index coupled with an unpeened op rod guide. Try adjusting the index on the guide then peening and loctite on the guide to see if that improves things at all.
Click to expand...

When you say operating rod guide, you are referring to the cylinder under the barrel it slides through, correct? How would you go about re-indexing it? I'm not gun smith but I noticed there is a roll pin in there, is that to be removed to index it? Or is this a deadblow mallet operation?
 
I just did the old punch and hammer on mine. Seems tight, and I put the old roll pin in. The op rod is off a tad from the gas system, are guys knurling these and then epoxying them inplace without using the roll pin? How do you move it over?
 
Make sure you align the op rod end with the gas cylinder rod (not the housing) *and* the spring parallel inside the op rod housing. i.e. the spring should not be rubbing to one side which will cause uneven wear.
On mine, to achieve both alignment, I need to bend the op rod handle bar out a bit using a wise and tubing for leverage.
 
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