Long range scope magnification

C

Camoman1

Regular
Super GunNutz
Rating - 100%
64   0   0
Location
Medicine Hat
I am looking into buying a Tikka CTR in a 260 for long range target, shooting out to 1400 yards.

I am looking at the Vortex Razor HD's

Would the 3-18x50 be sufficient or should the 4.5-27x56 be the one to go with?

And maybe thoughts on a better cheaper scope?
 
3-18 is suffice, but 4.5-27 covers a lot of bases.

I'll say it again, often farther distance = less zoom.

You point of impact becomes less important and wind calls become more important. Zooming out helps gather information.

Look at scopes (like the Razor) that have large FOV when at higher zoom levels. This is documented from almost every scope manufacture.
 
I like the most magnification possible. Could look into a used Night Force 8-32X56 or A Sightron SIII 8-32X56. The NF has more reticle options but the SIII has a nice 2 MOA target dot reticle. A used NF will be around $2000-$2300. The SIII will be $900-$1200 from what I have seen in the classifieds on here. I have both of these scopes and they serve me very well.
 
I've shot F Class with devote fans of very high magnification optics, but when pressed on what magnification levels they actually use, the value diminished become clear.

The best shooters I know use highest magnification at only 300 yards so they can pick the target real clean.

They rarely use more than 32 power at 1000 yards because mirage washes out the image and because a precise aiming point is not required because they are aiming all over to offset wind shifts.

Keep in mind that these users of high magnification scopes do not necessarily out shoot guys with 20x, so don't misinterpret their "preference" as an "actual" advantage.

I believe that very high magnification might be most applicable to 1000 yard bench rest string shooters.

I see almost no need for anything more than 20x on less controlled shooting events at longer ranges and I've personally never felt under gunned even at 300 yards with 20x.

I could see value in more than 32x on those rare occasions where wind is dead and sun is low, or maybe just as the fog lifts but those occasions are rare.

This is probably obvious... Also finding the target in high magnification scopes is more difficult. If you have the time to find it, ok. If you may be operating under some sort of time constraint well lower power is better.
 
Last edited:
For rocks and gongs out to 1 mile, I have used and would continue to use the Sightron SIII6-24x50 LRMOA... lots of mag

For F class, I use SIII and SVSS 10-50X60 LRMOA but mostly leave it at 32X for reasons mentioned above.

For PRS type shooting, I am going to try an STAC3-16X42 LRMOA. No idea how it will work out as I am just starting to play but field of view is important to me when moving around and on the clock.

The one constant... LRMOA reticle. I see the same image everytime I look through a scope. Makes it real comfy when I need to make decisions about holding here there and everywhere.

MRAD or MOA... whatever floats your boat or game... Just make sure the reticle and click values use the same units.

Just remember that although the distance increases, odds are you will continue to scale the target to match so the MOA size of the target likely isn't going to change a heck of a lot. If you can see a 1 MOA circle at 100yds with ease, that MOA sized gong at 1 mile will look exactly the same through the scope.

Jerry
 
Agreed with all the points above. I have been shooting both 18x and 25x max magnification scopes at a 24" plate at 1410 yards lately and it's not a problem. I've considered more magnification but I'm pretty sure it would be annoying with mirage.

By the way, I don't think you'll ever regret spending as much as possible on glass. The difference between a sightron and an S&B class scope (my experience is with premier reticles, but I imagine they are simliar in quality) is definitely noticeable. I've owned a couple sightrons and they are good for the money, but you definitely get what you pay for.

Edited to add again - I also like mil hashes to help quantify holdovers.

Ben
 
I'd say it really depends on what your application is. I have a NF SHV 4-14F1 that I've used for PRS type matches out to 1280 yards. I normally find it to be fine for the target sizes and distances I'm shooting at but I have found myself wanting a bit more magnification sometimes when shooting in ####ty conditions with targets that are harder to pick out, if that makes sense? As soon as there's any mirage, most of the guys I shoot with are backed down to 15x or so and I'll often back it down to 10x even when shooting stages with movers closer in and a static target further out (FFP is key) because you get such a big field of view that way. The next scope I get will be around 20x on the top end, which I think is plenty.
 
i'd go for the 4.5 to 27, you can always dial back the mag, but you can't dial it up on a lower powered scope. That being said, when I shoot further distances I usually am round 12-16x.
 
I've been in a 600 yards match before, and because of the heavy sun and high temperature I was'nt able to zoom more than 12x, the mirage was too heavy at 24x. So every one that stated above are right! It is fun to have it able to zoom more if needed, but you end up aiming at lower magnifications when shooting very far.

Dark
 
Go for higher mag. Can always dial down.

I run 8-32 Sightron in FTR. Rarely back it down from 32 power unless I find mirage to be too extreme. That said, I'd go for the NF 55 power scope if I could afford it.
 
Shooter ----/ said:
Go for higher mag. Can always dial down.

I run 8-32 Sightron in FTR. Rarely back it down from 32 power unless I find mirage to be too extreme. That said, I'd go for the NF 55 power scope if I could afford it.
Click to expand...

Yes. For me, the most magnification conditions will allow me to use. I think that sometimes I would like to be able to press a button and smoothly dial up or down from 20-100x. Of course it isn't possible yet and even if it was, a person would probably need a car battery to run it. As it is, it is just a little memorization to figure out hold-over and windage on the reticle at two magnifications/distances (say 16x and 32x) and you can either stick with one or the other of them or do a little fairly straightforward mental arithmetic extrapolate between them once you know your rig.
 
I run the NF 15-55 and I only max out the magnification at 300-400m, maybe 500m if the conditions are good. Anything else and I can almost always be found at 40x, which is where the reticle graduations are correct.
 
Your eye and quality of glass will tell you the magnification to use. I like shooting at the highest power I can. The use of a modifier disc will also cut mirage. I run March 8-80's and in heavy mirage can shoot at 40X. Don't use the 80X often but when conditions permit, it is great.
 
After having both Gen II Razors in my hands I felt the 3-18x50 is a nicer package (albeit just as heavy). There's nothing wrong with the 4.5-27, I just decided I didn't need a 56mm objective on a coyote hunting rifle. For bench and target shooting, the larger objective shouldn't make much difference. In that case I'd go with the 4.5-27 just to have the extra magnification in the event you ever want to use it. It's easy to dial down to 18 on a 27x scope, not so easy to dial up to 27 on an 18x scope haha.
 
jfarrell said:
Your eye and quality of glass will tell you the magnification to use. I like shooting at the highest power I can. The use of a modifier disc will also cut mirage. I run March 8-80's and in heavy mirage can shoot at 40X. Don't use the 80X often but when conditions permit, it is great.
Click to expand...

I really appreciate good glass. How is the eye relief in the March at 80x? There must be a small exit pupil and low tolerance for eye position behind the scope at that magnification. For the $'s it would be something I would have to try before I buy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom