Scope Level
- Thread starter savage112
- Start date
Yes for sure I use the entire scope mounting Kit, I had a Sako 85 finlight with a Vortex Hs-t 4-16 x 44 scope mounted by gentleman in Nanaimo at Wholesale FWIW guy does his thing hands my gun I shoulder it and _______ ___ ___ notice cross hairs seem off! but nol problem looks great asked question regarding rings tension he informed me company requires them to torque to 25 inch pounds thought that was on the high side. got home put rifle in a very accurate custom rest, leveled rest and first thing I noticed cross hairs were out, long story loosed off ring screws adjusted scope re-tightened rings and Now am ready to head to range just waiting for dies from Brownnells! Side note I have been looking into exactly how many degrees of cant in rifle and what that equals at 1000 yards, Bryan Lityz says 5" for every degree, others say .5 mil at 1000 which translate to 18" I believe. So thinking If you don't have or use a level some may say praying and spraying at long range! Use all tools to aid in your goal best of luck.
You can cant your rifle.
Your scope must be level when you shoot but the rifle doesnt matter.
Do you bring that little level to the range with you? If not get a scope mounted level. If you dial for drop make sure that your level is set to the tracking and not the reticle. If you hold over set it to the reticle. They may not be the same.
Your scope must be level when you shoot but the rifle doesnt matter.
Do you bring that little level to the range with you? If not get a scope mounted level. If you dial for drop make sure that your level is set to the tracking and not the reticle. If you hold over set it to the reticle. They may not be the same.
If you dial for drop make sure that your level is set to the tracking and not the reticle. If you hold over set it to the reticle. They may not be the same.
Above is quote I do not understand !? If I level my retical to my rifle how can my turret adjustment not be true ? I get it that the gun has to be level to the scope . Am I missing something?
Op - your setup looks good to me , but ??
What I do is put my gun with bipod on my level table and align retical to a hanging string with weight ( plum bomb) at a distance. It's just what I have , seems to work but I don't go to 1000yds except for getting called in from spotter just to say I did it
Above is quote I do not understand !? If I level my retical to my rifle how can my turret adjustment not be true ? I get it that the gun has to be level to the scope . Am I missing something?
Op - your setup looks good to me , but ??
What I do is put my gun with bipod on my level table and align retical to a hanging string with weight ( plum bomb) at a distance. It's just what I have , seems to work but I don't go to 1000yds except for getting called in from spotter just to say I did it
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Yup. That's the main flaw. How do you ensure that the surface you are using as your base level is even machined level and true to your bore?
Your scopes tracking will never be parallel with the reticle. It may be close but nothing is perfect, even with high end optics.
Again, you do not have to level the rifle. Only the scope. But level the scope to a scope mounted level.
It doesnt matter. The rifle can be canted.
So my vertical crosshair is on my hanging string perfectly up and down and I need a level ??
Now my rifle is canted and it doesn't matter?? The holdover on my retical will be canted also . , I need a pic or a video or somthing,I'm not getting it . But I will quit responding and keep reading maybe the light will come on
Now my rifle is canted and it doesn't matter?? The holdover on my retical will be canted also . , I need a pic or a video or somthing,I'm not getting it . But I will quit responding and keep reading maybe the light will come on
When out shooting how do you know if your scope is level? Unless you have a wide flat forend and a level on your rest you won't know.
It's surprising how out of level you hold your rifle when shooting. This is where a scope mounted level comes in handy.
I don't know if your rifle is canted. But if it is or isn't doesn't matter. I cant my rifles to fit my shoulder pocket. Being comfortable is key.
I don't know what you mean by your hold over is canted.
Ok , I'll try to explain my misunderstanding. I'm talking shooting off a bench with a bipod assuming the bench is level . My holdover is the amount of mils on my vertical crosshair I hold on . So if my rifle is canted my crosshair will be also . I realize in the field I will not be perfectly level but by my eye putting the horizontal crosshair flat will be as close as I get without a level on the scope
Edit - agreed on using the level for long distance , I Was talking about installing the scope LOL that's what the string talk etc and needing the rifle level etc . Over and out
Edit - agreed on using the level for long distance , I Was talking about installing the scope LOL that's what the string talk etc and needing the rifle level etc . Over and out
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Invest in a scope level. If you shoot out close to where your caliber goes transonic you will see huge improvements in group size.
Also I wouldnt bet that your bench is level. Or your bipod holds your rifle level.
in my post I was implying that the use of levels helps ensure scope and reticle are parallel to some part of the rifle and yes some firearms are harder to locate places to use to get level. No you do not take the little level to the range once you have everything level and parallel install a scope mounted level using the correct procedure and then should be able to do your dial up for drop ensuring that you don't Cant the rifle. if there are some people who install the optics canted to their scope as to accommodate some poor fitting stock then so be it but think most try to ensure that rifle, scope, and scope mounted level are all parallel!!
Without a scope level you will cant your rifle while shooting. Take your little level and prove it to yourself.
You don't need the scope level to the rifle or bolt race ways or scope rail or etc. It can be twisted 45 degrees for all that matters, as long as you have a scope mounted level that is lined up to the vertical up and down of your scope adjustments and vertical axis of your reticle. This way as long as the scope mounted level has the bubble between the lines you are not canting.
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I went through this process last night. First I leveled the rifle, then leveled the scope, then installed the bubble on the scope.
It's tricky though, I find whenever I look through the scope at the reticle I can never quite figure out if it actually looks level or not and I assume that it is due to parallax. My basement just isn't long enough I guess.
It's tricky though, I find whenever I look through the scope at the reticle I can never quite figure out if it actually looks level or not and I assume that it is due to parallax. My basement just isn't long enough I guess.
After installing your optics, hang a weighted string or plumb bob some 30 feet away. Line up your vertical crosshair on the string then install a scope mounted level. Verify nothing has shifted and now you can ensure your crosshairs are level when your scope level is.
not sure what the tracking is and how it can be different than the reticle if reticle is not true your dial upp or hold over will be off.
