Custom Winchester 1897

Sharps45-70

Sharps45-70

CGN Regular
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Edmonton
Hey all,

I have a 1902 1897 takedown I was thinking of making a custom hunting/clays rig out of. CCH the frame and misc bits, as well as rust bluing the whole thing. Also probably sending off to Chris Dawe for a restocking with a nice English straight grip stock. The gun is in perfect mechanical condition and funnily enough has almost zero bluing left so no extra costs there :)

Basically, what I have to know from any of the pros out there is: Is this really worth it? Is the 1897 a good enough platform to build something like this on? Cost?

This is the first time I have thought about doing something like this and don't really know much about it all.

Thanks for any input
 
Well if it's got value to yourself and you will enjoy it that way and makes you happy then yes, but if you're goal is to make the gun more valuable and make a profit off selling it then no. It's not worth doing.
 
Your 1897 has good value the way it is. . So many have been altered for cowboy action the survivors, of early manufacture, have an increasing value as time passes. . If your 1897 is not original and previously altered then go for it.

What makes the early models attractive is the round knob buttstock with teardrop metal buttplate, 3 screw forend, the round end cap of the magazine tube, 1897 script on the action slide . . these features were soon to dissappear around 1903 and onward.

The money you spend in re-stocking and your other alterations would go good against an attractive model designed for the use you intend.. You would win two ways in the value of your purchase and the value in maintaining an early original 1897.
 
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Rod said:
Your 1897 has good value the way it is. . So many have been altered for cowboy action the survivors, of early manufacture, have an increasing value as time passes. . If your 1897 is not original and previously altered then go for it.

What makes the early models attractive is the round knob buttstock with teardrop metal buttplate, 3 screw forend, the round end cap of the magazine tube, 1897 script on the action slide . . these features were soon to dissappear around 1903 and onward.

The money you spend in re-stocking and your other alterations would go good against an attractive model designed for the use you intend.. You would win two ways in the value of your purchase and the value in maintaining an early original 1897.
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That is almost the same conclusion I am slowly coming to. The only reason I was thinking of doing this to this particular gun is because of the lack of bluing and the forend is cracked pretty badly, which caused the front bushing to fall out. I think I just might wait for the Calgary gun show and see if I can find something there
 
Sharps45-70 said:
That is almost the same conclusion I am slowly coming to. The only reason I was thinking of doing this to this particular gun is because of the lack of bluing and the forend is cracked pretty badly, which caused the front bushing to fall out. I think I just might wait for the Calgary gun show and see if I can find something there
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Yes, those problems were common to the early models. . The forend can be repaired and the correct screws are available. . The receivers, on early models of 1897 and 1912, were built using nickel steel that didn't hold the bluing very well which is acceptable the way they are in original condition.

I have two early 1897's . 1901 and 1903. Here's a couple of pictures of my 1901 two barrel outfit, 26" & 32"







 
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Rod said:
Yes, those problems were common to the early models. . The forend can be repaired and the correct screws are available. . The receivers, on early models of 1897 and 1912, were built using nickel steel that didn't hold the bluing very well which is acceptable the way they are in original condition.

I have two early 1897's . 1901 and 1903. Here's a couple of pictures of my 1901 two barrel outfit, 26" & 32"







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Looks gorgeous! I have to say mine is nowhere near that! Almost looks polished in this lighting ;)

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Camera flash on indoor pictures don't do an older gun any favors. . Outside it'd most likely show better. .

The forend wood can be repaired with some patience using Brownell's Acraglass and clamping with surgical tubing. . Soak it a bit in acetone to clean any oil deposits first. . with the forend wood removed, cut a spacer to hold the wood apart and neatly apply acraglass to both sides of the crack. . then using surgical tubing to clamp it tight. . before you begin to wrap the surgical tubing around the wood, apply a layer of saran wrap over the repair area or the tubing will bond to the acraglass. .Remove the tubing the next day and clean it up but don't be sanding just clean the excess acraglass off and a light rub with 0000 steel wool. . Then very sparingly rub on and wipe off a few go rounds with linseed oil. .

The metal I'd just apply a light coat of gun oil and wipe it off. . Your 1897 is 113 years old and shouldn't be looking brand new anyways. . It'll look just fine when your finished.
 
Rod said:
Camera flash on indoor pictures don't do an older gun any favors. . Outside it'd most likely show better. .

The forend wood can be repaired with some patience using Brownell's Acraglass and clamping with surgical tubing. . Soak it a bit in acetone to clean any oil deposits first. . with the forend wood removed, cut a spacer to hold the wood apart and neatly apply acraglass to both sides of the crack. . then using surgical tubing to clamp it tight. . before you begin to wrap the surgical tubing around the wood, apply a layer of saran wrap over the repair area or the tubing will bond to the acraglass. .Remove the tubing the next day and clean it up but don't be sanding just clean the excess acraglass off and a light rub with 0000 steel wool. . Then very sparingly rub on and wipe off a few go rounds with linseed oil. .

The metal I'd just apply a light coat of gun oil and wipe it off. . Your 1897 is 113 years old and shouldn't be looking brand new anyways. . It'll look just fine when your finished.
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I keep a coat of oil on it always. I will most likely get a new forend bushing and repair the wood. The wood on the gun has a lovely grain and I would like to keep it if I am not doing anything special to the gun. Thanks for the help!
 
With a straight grip stock ... just be careful, awful easy to get a bolt bite on the thumb knuckle !
Even the shallow pistol grip on these old-timers helps to keep you from getting bit.
 
NEVER use steel shot in one of these old Winchesters! Seen it done on skeet & trap ranges that mandated steel shot and the damage to the gun was not repairable.
 
Garand said:
NEVER use steel shot in one of these old Winchesters! Seen it done on skeet & trap ranges that mandated steel shot and the damage to the gun was not repairable.
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No kidding! I personally never would as I know the hazards associated with ANY old shotgun, not just Winchesters, but there are some stories floating around at the range I go to of people who have done it. *sigh* what a waste :(
 
If u r looking for a shooter 97 something between 1935 & 1957 would be far superior to a early generation gun I have a 1954 and shoot it in the field and some trap with it handles nicely .
 
A '97 would be a poor platform for a clays gun with the amount of drop at heel & handling characteristics they have. Also I can't say I'd want to see that bolt slide coming back at me while keeping my head on the stock for the second shot in doubles. But hey, that's just my opinion.
 
Old as it is, 1897 Black Diamond Trap gun shooters shot some mighty good scores in their day. Scores that some of us would struggle to emulate.

They still do well in Black Powder trap where a hammer gun is required.

If I wanted an upgraded 1897 Winchester, I would also be looking for a late production gun of better steel.
 
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