Drifting the pins out on a Mosin rear sight

ilikeoldguns

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Hi.

I got a brass stacker mount for my mosin and want to mount it on the rifle, but the drift pins will not budge!

I am trying to drift them right to left, with the provided pin punch, after application of WD40 and all I'm doing is scratching the finish. All the videos and diagrams seem to indicate they drift out the left, but since I was having zero luck, I tried the other way to confirm ( I have been burned on this before) same-same, no budge.

The rear pin looks bigger on the left side than the right (It was the forward, uniform-looking pin I tried to drift left-to-right and right to left).

They don't *appear* to be of the evil angled-pin variety.

What am I missing?

Thanks for your time.


PS: flipped the rear sight up to take pressure off the spring to see if that helped. It did not.
 
Sounds like you just need to hit it harder. On the real hard pins you should use a very short punch just slightly smaller than the pin. It will come out. It is not tapered.
 
Might just need to hit it harder, mounting the rifle in a vise will also help. I recently helped a friend remove his rear sight, it does take some pounding and a steady platform to get them out.
 
That could well be the problem then; I haven't yet built up my gun vice, I was just trying to tap it out on the work bench.

Regarding heat; would that not draw the temper of the barrel?
 
You have to beat the hell out of the pins to get them out of there.

I have scout scope mounts on a few of mine and took a lot of heavy hits to get them out.
 
If the gun is Izhevsk and made after 1941, the pins are likely original and will be soldered. The retro-fitted pins from older guns or Tula guns are usually not soldered after the pins were pressed in.

If they won't budge, detail strip the action and hold the barrel in a padded vice, flow the solder under the mount, and bang the pins out with a short starter punch.
 
If the gun is Izhevsk and made after 1941, the pins are likely original and will be soldered. The retro-fitted pins from older guns or Tula guns are usually not soldered after the pins were pressed in.

If they won't budge, detail strip the action and hold the barrel in a padded vice, flow the solder under the mount, and bang the pins out with a short starter punch.

By flow you mean melt with a torch?

Again; will that draw the temper of the barrel?

it is a 43 Izhevsk.
 
Take a pencil torch to the pins and more so the area around them.
Get them good and hot. Then spray them with deep creep/deep penetrating oil.
Then try hitting them good and hard with a solid punch and a heavy hammer.
If they don't budge after that, then just drill them out. If it's important to be able restore the rifle to stock condition later, then source replacement pins before you drill them out.
 
By flow you mean melt with a torch?

Again; will that draw the temper of the barrel?

it is a 43 Izhevsk.

Barells aren't hardened, and you're heating the base, not the barrel itself. Use propane. It won't get hot enough to be a problem.

As mentioned, disassemble first and check if there is solder visible under the sight spring.

You could always bring to a smith if this is beyond your abilities.
 
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