How would you restore this gun?

DefaultAnthony

DefaultAnthony

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Hey,

I just inherited the gun below and it's in pretty bad shape. From what I can gather it will cost me a ~$200 to get an armorer to fix it which seems a bit steep given it's probably not worth a whole lot more then that. It's a Winchester 94 in .30-30 win

I would welcome any suggestions on what the right process would be to restore this gun. Because it has sentimental value I'm willing to put in work.

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As stated, steel wool and oil is the cheapest way to go. If the bore and parts are in decent shape, consider a full bluing restore or cerakote. I had my Marlin 1894 (new Remlin) cerakoted. Very, very happy with the results:)
 
If it is pre 64 would bring 1000 in good shape, send it out for ceracote , gun smith would be a lot more than 200!
 
Garaldtao said:
OOO steel wool.
Click to expand...

No - use 0000 steel wool and oil.

It isn't possible to restore damage this bad without removing a lot of metal and some of the printing... and if restored will look nothing like the old gun passed down to you... and would cost several hundreds of dollars if done professionally and well.
 
For less'n twenty lewnies you can buy a can awff Fluid Film.
Shake the bah-jeezbus out of it.
Spray thet old gal down like she wuzz kuffered in skunk skant.
Let it sit for a couple days, then take after it with the 0000 steel wool.
There is such a thing as extra fine, but not sure how it compairs to 0000
fur grit.
Furniture repair shop will have this.
 
Go to your garden... raise the rifle over your head, muzzle pointing down, slam it into the soil as deep as you can, then plant a tomato plant next to it.
 
kamlooky said:
For less'n twenty lewnies you can buy a can awff Fluid Film.
Shake the bah-jeezbus out of it.
Spray thet old gal down like she wuzz kuffered in skunk skant.
Let it sit for a couple days, then take after it with the 0000 steel wool.
There is such a thing as extra fine, but not sure how it compairs to 0000
fur grit.
Furniture repair shop will have this.
Click to expand...

0000 is super fine, or the finest.

http://steelwooldirect.com/grades-and-applications/
 
With rust like that, there is often pits. Like everyone else has said, have after it with some steel wool, or scotch brite pad. This will expose the true damage hidden by the rust. From that point, a decision can be made as to what to do. There have been far worse, brought back to life with emory cloth, and block, and a lot of hours.

R.
 
You didn't mention how the action works, the stock and for stock any damage ? Has had any other Modifications , missing parts messed up screws . Most likely it will be still a good shooter ,truck gun ,back packer or a first gun for someone starting out . Knock the rust off oil it up wood too ! It doesn't have to be pretty to be a good gun . If not for you someone will love to have it . Its got Patina you cant buy Character like that ,any one can have a like new but it takes time to get to look like that, scars and Wrinkles tell a story ,you just need to know how to read them .
 
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buzzmagoo said:
Its got Patina you cant buy Character like that ,any one can have a like new but it takes time to get to look like that, scars and Wrinkles tell a story ,you just need to know how to read them .
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Easy to read this one. Don't see any patina, character, or scars - just neglect. Unless there was a tomato plant involved.

OP, do not despair. My first rifle 40 years ago was a post-64 model 94 that came to me in similar condition. I used the approach the others recommended (but don't put gun oil on the wood) and finally used cold blue compound. At the time Cerakote was not a thing. Stripped the stocks and oil finished with multiple rubbed in applications. Still had metal rust pits but as a 15 yo was proud of my clean up job and it did shoot ok. Well, at least as good as late model 94s are capable of.
 
Rust scabs can be removed using a brass scraper. Hammer a cartridge case flat at the mouth, sharpen like a chisel. Any brass smears can be removed with copper cutting bore cleaner.
Oil and steel wool as mentioned. It will clean up and look a lot better than it does now. Looks like a pre'64. These attract more interest than the ones form the later '60s and 70s.
If it were mine, I'd just clean it up and use it as is.
A quality commercial reblue by a smith who can polish without smearing everything will run at least $250. Then there is the wood.
Really easy to wind up with a shiney overpolished mess with metal that is proud of the wood.
 
Just take your time and do it bit by bit when you have some spare time. I have found I get much better results than when you go on a mission and rush through it wanting to finish quickly so you can use it.
Totally worth the work in my opinion.
As was mentioned, hopefully under the wood isn't too bad if it was holding moisture. I had a VZ24 '98 once that looked ok in the stock, but under the stock line the receiver looked like the surface of the moon.
 
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