misfire virgin, please help
- Thread starter Ultramag
- Start date
More information is required for a more educated response.
It could be the ammo if it is a reload... oversized causing excessive head clearance, contaminated primer.
It could be the rifle due to gunsmithing errors... Extreme headspace problem, incorrect firing pin protrusion, weak spring.
What cartridge? Factory or reload? Was the primer imprinted? Did you try firing another cartridge?
It could be the ammo if it is a reload... oversized causing excessive head clearance, contaminated primer.
It could be the rifle due to gunsmithing errors... Extreme headspace problem, incorrect firing pin protrusion, weak spring.
What cartridge? Factory or reload? Was the primer imprinted? Did you try firing another cartridge?
What he said, x1000 ^^^^
Protocol is to wait a couple seconds, in case of a hang fire (slim odds, but possible), pull the misfired cartridge and have a look at it to see if the primer was struck, and how deeply.
Then, typically, load another, and get on with your day.
Work from there.
Cheers
Trev
Protocol is to wait a couple seconds, in case of a hang fire (slim odds, but possible), pull the misfired cartridge and have a look at it to see if the primer was struck, and how deeply.
Then, typically, load another, and get on with your day.
Work from there.
Cheers
Trev
17/204 handload, all new component
I myself am suspicious of the headspace, no I did not try another, dare I? (not sarcastic, just green)
primer is indented, but not maybe as much as usual, hard to say
UM
I hear ya, but creepy ####!
"Why" do you doubt the headspace?
Did you ream it? Did the guy that did, not use headspace gages?
Switch barrel rifle? You no got the headspace gages to check when installing a barrel?
How accurately can you measure the lengths of your cartridges?
As to more tries? Yep. Unless there is some indication that there is a problem with the strike, you don't have a problem, if you cannot reliably repeat it.
Could be a simple as one dud primer. Could be more than that.
Cheers
Trev
Did you ream it? Did the guy that did, not use headspace gages?
Switch barrel rifle? You no got the headspace gages to check when installing a barrel?
How accurately can you measure the lengths of your cartridges?
As to more tries? Yep. Unless there is some indication that there is a problem with the strike, you don't have a problem, if you cannot reliably repeat it.
Could be a simple as one dud primer. Could be more than that.
Cheers
Trev
No it's not. It's on par with cranking the key on your car and not having it start. There may be a problem, or maybe not. Not something to get in a lather over.
In the Military, the term is(was?) Immediate Actions and Stoppages. Things you train to do when the firearm quits doing what it should. LOTS of dud rounds get left on the ground at ranges!
Normal stuff!
Cheers
Trev
no unfortunately I do not have a go gauge yet, I got this done at a very reputable custom shop where I've had numerous barrels done without any issues
I had another look at the primer, I now believe there is plenty of strike for ignition
I had another look at the primer, I now believe there is plenty of strike for ignition
Cases formed too short, maybe?
This relates to my earlier question, as to whether you have the capability to accurately measure the cases.
How is the barrel attached on that change barrel system? Can it be mis-installed? Not in as far as it should be?
This is why I asked about the gage, as you really sorta need one, or a known good reference round at the very least, so you can check it on install and be reasonably certain that it is correctly adjusted.
Not familiar enough with the Borden switch barrel system, etc., to suggest a method that could be used to fireform the cases to your chamber if they are short on the shoulder, but some digging around online might help. Search whatever combos of terms revolving around salvaging wildcat cases, etc.
One method used for rimmed cases, as an example, uses small elastic bands or o-rings around the base of the rim, to squeeze the case hard back against the breech face, so the shoulder gets pushed forward rather than the case getting stretched. Gotta be a similar workaround for a rimless case. I just don't know it yet.
But before any of that, you really, in my opinion, would be best served to start with getting the rifle checked against a gage that you know is good, if you can. If chambered too deep, it may be as simple as adjusting your dies out, to match, and keeping decent notes, as it IS actually a Wildcat, and no real worries about Factory ammo issues. Just gotta make ammo that fits the chamber, then.
Cheers
Trev
This relates to my earlier question, as to whether you have the capability to accurately measure the cases.
How is the barrel attached on that change barrel system? Can it be mis-installed? Not in as far as it should be?
This is why I asked about the gage, as you really sorta need one, or a known good reference round at the very least, so you can check it on install and be reasonably certain that it is correctly adjusted.
Not familiar enough with the Borden switch barrel system, etc., to suggest a method that could be used to fireform the cases to your chamber if they are short on the shoulder, but some digging around online might help. Search whatever combos of terms revolving around salvaging wildcat cases, etc.
One method used for rimmed cases, as an example, uses small elastic bands or o-rings around the base of the rim, to squeeze the case hard back against the breech face, so the shoulder gets pushed forward rather than the case getting stretched. Gotta be a similar workaround for a rimless case. I just don't know it yet.
But before any of that, you really, in my opinion, would be best served to start with getting the rifle checked against a gage that you know is good, if you can. If chambered too deep, it may be as simple as adjusting your dies out, to match, and keeping decent notes, as it IS actually a Wildcat, and no real worries about Factory ammo issues. Just gotta make ammo that fits the chamber, then.
Cheers
Trev
yes I certainly can measure the case, but until I can contact the 'smith for the proper dimensions, its of no use
the barrel is installed as it came from them, it seems tight and I have no reason to doubt them, this is 1 of many they sent me.
I want you to overlook the fact that this gun has 3 barrels, as it sits, its nothing more than custom gun
however.....I am somewhat concerned about the ammo being a bit short, and may need to use a false shoulder
the barrel is installed as it came from them, it seems tight and I have no reason to doubt them, this is 1 of many they sent me.
I want you to overlook the fact that this gun has 3 barrels, as it sits, its nothing more than custom gun
however.....I am somewhat concerned about the ammo being a bit short, and may need to use a false shoulder
I tried this, NO BANG
primer is only marginally dinted this time
Head back to your gunsmith...
A 17/204 is a wildcat and as such should have a chamber matching your die set. From what I have read your case is not close to fitting this chamber... dangerously not close. Send a fully sized case and your rifle back to the smith.
To make a 17/204 case you should only need to fully size a 204 case in the full length 17/204 sizing die.
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New Camper
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Lurking in the woods near SFRC.
Pull it down, the most common misfire is a forgotten powder charge. Those of you who
Are without sin; may you cast the first stone.
That reminded me of the Simpsons episode where Homer and Flanders were arguing about something and Homer plays that line... Todd pegs him with a stone, "Got him daddy."
Man, having three barrels means to me, that it should have three headspace gages packed in the same box. That's likely not just me, either. The sort of 'cowboy' headspacing that I have heard of being used on Savage rifles with the screwed on barrels with a nut, is to close the barrel up on a known good 'reference' round kept for the purpose, then to back it off a calculated bit (IIRC, it amounts to about 4 thousandths of an inch), before tightening down the nut. The guys that are doing it, generally are pretty savvy as to what they are doing and dealing with. And comfortable with the results.
You form the cases yourself, or did they come with? Who's dies were used to form them? Load them? Did the dimensions of said dies, relate in any way closely to those used for the chamber reamer? Or only in name?
You wildcatting without so much as a case dimensions drawing? Did you end up with a set of 17-204 loading dies, and your smith with a 17-204 Improved reamer?
It feels a little like pullin' teeth here.
Cheap and dirty experiment for ya to try. Put a strip of scotch tape across the primer end of the case, trim around the rim with a razor blade, check if you can close the bolt on it. If it closes without effort, repeat until it hangs up. How many layers of tape?
A layer of tape should come in pretty close to 4 thou. But you should measure.
From the sounds of it, I will be surprised to hear you got less than 5 or 6 layers on.
Cheers
Trev
You could always just look the word protocol up.
Primer compound isn't much like a slow burning fuse. If there has not been a earth shattering kaboom, and still not after a few seconds, I can live with those odds. Try to keep in mind that what does and has worked for years before the CFSC came along and wrote a book upon which a test was to be based, you would get a right answer from everyone you asked, because there was not a manual out there to claim was the right answer. For that matter, it is only the right answer, on that test,eh?
If I had ever read it, maybe I would have known that.
Cheers
Trev
Not on non-military ranges. All duds must be properly disposed of.
