Pine tar wood finish on a Mosin

Facts? Yes please! Tried out a number of pine tar recipes to see for myself. Now I must acquire this bitumen and continue my studies...
Soooo... where would one find such stuff? Google tells me to go to Alberta and dig it out of the ground. Lol
 
Since Finland was defending their territory against a Goliath like Russia in a completely tipped battle ibdare say they stained/sealed their rifles with many different things and generally used whatever worked cause who knew if there would be a tomorrow. I bet creosote or some form of chemical was common to darken the rifle and just make it water tight which was all that mattered.
 
cigar_man said:
Long day or I'm confused!

In adding the red oxide to BLO and naphtha as a separate mixture,,,,, are you using part of the original formula weights listed or am I reading this wrong.

Also is roofing asphalt that is made of bitumen not at around 70% bitumen.

Can roofing asphalt be used?

I am very interested in this also.

Thanks for your help, Claven2, very much appreciated.
Click to expand...

You make two separate solutions, then combine at the end. Yes, you can use 70% bitumen asphalt. No problem.
 
philhut said:
Since Finland was defending their territory against a Goliath like Russia in a completely tipped battle ibdare say they stained/sealed their rifles with many different things and generally used whatever worked cause who knew if there would be a tomorrow. I bet creosote or some form of chemical was common to darken the rifle and just make it water tight which was all that mattered.
Click to expand...

Generally you'd be wrong. Since before WW2, some time in the late 1920's, the Finns consistently used Kiväärintukkiöljy, which translates roughly to "Rifle Stock Oil". It was general issue, dirt cheap to manufacture, and readily available in depot and in the field.

The recipe above is a near exact copy of the issue stuff.

http://forums.gunboards.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=449560&d=1311963046
attachment.php
 
Any ideas?

I am playing with a mixture of pine tar and tung oil on some test pieces. But the mixture does not want to set up to a dry finish, it absorbed well but remains slightly oil still. A test patch of just pine tar oil is the same and has been curing for about a month.

Is this normal or do I need to use a little heat? The smell is quite pleasant, like old medicated salve but the oily residue is not desired.
 
The tung oil you get around here isn't really tung oil, but rather a varnish based on tung oil. If you add pine tar to it, you'll get a non-drying mess. Forget tung oil. It's not a gun stock oil despite what some on the Internet claim. Try linseed oil instead.


Saafire said:
I am playing with a mixture of pine tar and tung oil on some test pieces. But the mixture does not want to set up to a dry finish, it absorbed well but remains slightly oil still. A test patch of just pine tar oil is the same and has been curing for about a month.

Is this normal or do I need to use a little heat? The smell is quite pleasant, like old medicated salve but the oily residue is not desired.
Click to expand...
 
Logcabinlooms on youtube is a pine tar believer... puts it on guns, tools, and everything else made of wood. Mixes with linseed oil and/or turpentine. Preaches that heat is the key to a good result.
 
Hehe, well at least I have a fire extinguisher in the garage. I will pick up some linseed oil and try that, see if it improves.

Thanks for the useful responses!
 
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