VZ58 Trigger Job
- Thread starter serbinator
- Start date
P0WERWAGON
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- burnaby BC كافر
i was searching online a while ago and found a guy in washington state that would reshape the trigger for less overtravel and quicker reset. he no longer does it and juts told me to fill and file till the trigger travel was right. been meaning to try that myself.
Frankly, the trigger on my Vz.58 has a smoother pull than the one on the C7 I was issued. Longer, but once you start meeting resistance it breaks surprisingly clean. I don't think I'd bother. The travel distance is maybe a little excessive but you can get over that by just shooting it.
TV-PressPass
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Mountains, Alberta
15 minutes of dry fire every night will do a heck of a lot more for you than 8 hours of trigger tinkering.
VanIsleCam
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Haven't fired a C7 but I totally agree: there is take up in the trigger but the wall is right there.
P0WERWAGON
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- burnaby BC كافر
trigger pull is nice, just that mine has way too much over travel making the reset very long. hard for double taps.
found out that the guy in Washington state's trigger jobs aren't consistent, a few people had problems with them
http://www.sa58.cz/products/uprava-spouste-sa-58-vymenou/
apparently this has a better disconnector and a trigger with a set screw that prevents overtravel. drop in for our CSA VZ58s but might need some fitting on the surplus 858s. I will probably order that.
http://www.sa58.cz/products/uprava-spouste-sa-58-vymenou/
apparently this has a better disconnector and a trigger with a set screw that prevents overtravel. drop in for our CSA VZ58s but might need some fitting on the surplus 858s. I will probably order that.
P0WERWAGON
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- burnaby BC كافر
funny that i cant find it on the english side, is it a stocking item? my google powers are weak.
Rusty Joots
CGN Regular
- Location
- Spruce Grove, Ab
Last edited:
StrelokRussia
Regular
I did a trigger job on mine and now the trigger feels smooth and crisp. I can get better accuracy than with the stock factory trigger and it doesn't take much to do it.
I polished the contact surfaces to a mirror finish, trimmed them a bit and made sure that the striker has a positive engagement (for safety). I have yet to install an over travel screw. I can post pics if people are interested.
I polished the contact surfaces to a mirror finish, trimmed them a bit and made sure that the striker has a positive engagement (for safety). I have yet to install an over travel screw. I can post pics if people are interested.
Rusty Joots
CGN Regular
- Location
- Spruce Grove, Ab
Yes please bud I'm interested to see if you wouldn't mind
VanIsleCam
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
100% Interested.
Porkchopsandwhich
CGN Regular
That's surprising considering my norinco ar has a better trigger.
I would like a sharper reset shorter travel maybe, a wider flat trigger would be something zahal.org hint hint
its a in stock item but i guess they didnt translate that item.. ill talk to zendl directly to see if i can order from him instead.
StrelokRussia
Regular
I took the time to finish my trigger and eliminated the overtravel. Here's how I did my trigger job.
Please be aware that I'm not responsible for anything if you damage your gun if you decide to modify it as shown here. This is not a how to guide. If you're not confident take it to a gunsmith.
I started with 600 grit sandpaper and worked my way to 2000 on the sear and striker contact surfaces. This got me a mirror finish and a very smooth 2nd stage. I also trimmed the sear from the top to shorten the second stage travel.
The sear and striker must have positive engagement. This is very important for safety. The way to test for it is to put pressure on the striker while slowly pulling the trigger and observing striker travel.
If the striker travels back you have positive engagement and you're good. If it stays still it's neutral engagement which is ok too (but positive is better). If it travels forward it has negative engagement and is unsafe.
To eliminate overtravel I drilled in the back of the trigger and soldered in a piece round welding rod. Trimmed and filed it down until the trigger stops right after it releases the striker.
The over travel adjustment isn't actually adjustable but it doesn't need to be. Once it's initially set you won't need to adjust it.
It was a fun project and helped shrink my groups a bit.
I hope this helps you get a better idea of what's involved in a trigger job.
Please be aware that I'm not responsible for anything if you damage your gun if you decide to modify it as shown here. This is not a how to guide. If you're not confident take it to a gunsmith.
I started with 600 grit sandpaper and worked my way to 2000 on the sear and striker contact surfaces. This got me a mirror finish and a very smooth 2nd stage. I also trimmed the sear from the top to shorten the second stage travel.
The sear and striker must have positive engagement. This is very important for safety. The way to test for it is to put pressure on the striker while slowly pulling the trigger and observing striker travel.
If the striker travels back you have positive engagement and you're good. If it stays still it's neutral engagement which is ok too (but positive is better). If it travels forward it has negative engagement and is unsafe.
To eliminate overtravel I drilled in the back of the trigger and soldered in a piece round welding rod. Trimmed and filed it down until the trigger stops right after it releases the striker.
The over travel adjustment isn't actually adjustable but it doesn't need to be. Once it's initially set you won't need to adjust it.
It was a fun project and helped shrink my groups a bit.
I hope this helps you get a better idea of what's involved in a trigger job.
